Advise on Brace Bits Needed

[David Dalzell]

I just bought a Stanley 923-10 brace on e-bay. Today, so I haven't recieved it yet. It now occurs to me that I need some bits (augers?) to go with the brace. I have never used a brace so I don't know what type of bits to get. On e-bay I see a lot of "IRWIN" auger bits. They mostly have truncated pyramid square ends. Is this the style of bits/augers I need? If not, then what do I need? Also, any thoughts or comments on IRWIN or other brands? Any help is appreciated.

[Igor Petrenko]

Look for Russel Jennings bits, they are more suited for hardwood due to fine threads.

[Richard Line]

If you are working with softwood, you might consider buying a couple of new Irwin bits through Amazon. Pick 2 or 3 sizes that you think you will use. I do suggest not getting the new 1/4 inch size (I did), as the lead screw doesn't seem to fit into the main auger part well. The 3/8 & 3/4 sizes I got seem to work well in soft wood. The 3/4 bit did a very good job drilling 16 bench dog holes in my new bench (Doug Fir). I was in the same situation you are in - I had a brace, but needed some bits. Buying a couple of bits from Amazon was cheaper than trying to get good ones from e-bay.

[Michael H Greene]

Congrats on your brace. The 923 is a very nice brace (I have an 8" 923). You are looking at the right kind of bits, but I would find them in the wild instead of the site where you got your brace. This way you can check them out before you buy. Yard sales are a good place to start. You can pick them up for a few dollars a piece at most. The main thing to look for is a good lead screw ( if the screw is stripped, the bit will not be pulled into the wood so it won't cut). Also, make sure the spurs on each side of the bit are there and not too worn. These score the outer circumference of the hole so you get a clean hole. Finally, make sure that the bit hasn't been improperly sharpened, if the cutting edge has been filed on the bottom, the bit will not cut well or at all. I would not worry a lot about Irwin vs.Jennings. I have both and they both cut well.

Here is a thread with good advice and pictures

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t-About-Augers.

[David Dalzell]

Well I live pretty far away from any town, so garage sales and such don't happen. By the way my work is with hardwood. I sharpen my saws, chisels, blades, and drill bits so I am comfortable with the process.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I bought a new manufacture Irwin bit from Amazon on a lark a while back. It was made in Brazil I believe. Having used vintage bits, I was less than impressed. It was terribly ground, needing a lot of work to make functional, was barely functional then, and the spurs where actually blued when I got it, like when you over-grind a chisel. I should have taken pictures. Very poorly machined in general, particularly the screw point at the end. Seemed very soft when sharpening, and dulled quickly compared to my older bits.

[Robert A. Winter]

I am not sure if anybody still manufactures the old style auger bits, the ones with the square shank at the end. All of the bits I see on the Lee Valley website seem to have hex shanks and I doubt they would fit my brace. I know that LV sells some adaptors as well but I don't know if the bits will fit in them.

[Jim Koepke]

Robert,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't show your location.

David, I see you do live a bit off the well beaten path. If you do get out to town, keep your eyes open at pawn shops, antique shops and yard sales.

I have bought a lot of bits on ebay and have mostly done well.

Michael beat me to providing a link to "A Bit About Augers" I haven't had time to add a few other observations.

The key to buying on ebay is to have good pictures that are not trying to hide the condition of the spurs. If the spurs are short, you will not get a clean edge on the bored hole.

It is my tendency to purchase old bits, at prices of a dollar or less, in good condition when found to have spares. Some times I have to drill in a fence post or other item that may have hidden metal. For such work I will use a bit that may not be acceptable for finer work. An old nail, staple or screw can take the spurs right off of a good bit, DAMHIKT!

I have a good set of Irwin bits and a lot of other bits from various makers. I do like Russell Jennings bits for the double spiral being a bit better in deep holes that I want to be straight.

jtk

If you aren't totally confused, you just don't understand... (paraphrasing Edward Murrow)

[Robert A. Winter]

Thanks, Jim. I have edited the profile to show location.

I have a good selection of auger bits so I don't really follow them on Ebay but I do still keep and eye out at flea markets and the like. So few people use them these days that there are usually some pretty good deals to be had. I also keep an eye out for braces but most of them seem very long in the tooth.

[David Dalzell]

Well I have been woodworking for about 3 years. I keep tending more and more towards handwork. I like to use machines to get the rough size/shape, then go to hand tools. I just finished a one year stint at College of the Redwoods Fine Woodworking school Mendocino. This confirmed and strengthed my desire to go to handwork. I don't need to make a living at it (retired), I just need to have a wonderfull time making furniture. So while they emphasized hand work at the school I am still sadly lacking in some fundamental hand tools. Also I am not at all emparassed to ask for help. I would like to thank everyone for the help and advise. I believe I will try to get both Irwin and Russell Jennings bits on e-bay. I am not adverse to having too many tools. For instance 5 vintage egg beater hand drills, 18 handplanes, etc. By the way about half of my handplane are made by me (Krenov style). I find that I prefer using the handmade woodies over my old bailys and other metal planes. They feel better and one feels closer to the work.

[Bob Easton]

Set up a "watch" on eBay. Full sets (16 bits) of Russel Jennings bits come and go with regular frequency. They are usually in one of two packages, a nice wooden case, or a canvas roll. Prices are fairly constant. I suggest a watch so that you can take your time in seeing how often they appear, how they're priced, etc. It won't take but a couple of weeks to find a set you like.

[Sam Murdoch]

I happen to have a set of 13 Irwin bits from the Irwin Auger company. 1/4" through 1" in 1/16" increments. These are in a good metal hinged case with a booklet (dated 1971) explaining the care and use and anatomy of auger bits etc. These are unused or used once or twice at most as I can see some mahogany dust in the lead screw of the smaller bits but otherwise sharp as they were manufactured. I won't be able to post photos until tomorrow evening. If you are interested David, I will do so. Please other suggest what they might be worth because I have no idea without shopping on line myself. I have a between the studs sized bit brace too, also 99% unused, which I would consider selling (especially if I loose the bits ).

[David Dalzell]

Sam
I would be interested. What is a "between the studs sized bit brace"?

[Michael Ray Smith]

I just bought a Stanley 923-10 brace on e-bay. Today, so I haven't recieved it yet. It now occurs to me that I need some bits (augers?) to go with the brace. I have never used a brace so I don't know what type of bits to get. On e-bay I see a lot of "IRWIN" auger bits. They mostly have truncated pyramid square ends. Is this the style of bits/augers I need? If not, then what do I need? Also, any thoughts or comments on IRWIN or other brands? Any help is appreciated.

First, congratulations on your find. As others have noted, the Stanley 923 series are good drills.

Second, there's a lot of good advice here. In particular note what Jim says in this thread and in the old one that's linked in his post. I learned a lot about Neanderdrills and bits -- quickly -- by paying attention to him.

Third, some of my own observations. I agree that the condition of the screw is key. If it's worn or mangled, the bit won't work no matter what you do to it. Also, get an auger file and look to Jim's post to learn how to use it. You'll need it because dull bits are frustrating. As for the various types of auger bits, note that "Irwin" indicates a particular manufacturer, but it also indicates a particular bit design or pattern. Lots of other companies made Irwin pattern bits. Same with Russell Jennings. There are also a few other, less common patters of auger bits you might find. A while back, I came across a Ransom Cook that looks something like a Russell Jennings but with no spurs. And you'll sometimes see bits that look like Irwin pattern except the spurs extend both above and below the cutting edge; I don't know what those are called. Finally -- check out a few other types of bits in addition to augers. You can easily loosen a lot of stuck screws with a brace and screwdriver bit because you can get so much torque with the brace. I also like gimlet bits. They're noted for being good for drilling pilot holes and for leaving a relatively clean exit hole, but I use them for a lot of things, maybe just because I like things that are a little off the beaten path. Note that you need small, round files to sharpen them -- one of Jim's pieces of advice that I followed was to use chainsaw files.

Oh, and one other thing that someone else might have already mentioned -- A lot of the bits you find in the wild or on eBay are bent. Some badly. Especially the smaller diameters, for obvious reasons. The quick way to check is to roll them on a table top and see if the square shank goes up and down as it rolls. For some purposes, there's nothing wrong with a slightly bent bit, but I avoid them anyway.