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Thread: What if I can't afford dust collection??

  1. #31
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    Maybe the truthful answer to your original question Duane ('what if.......') is that if it's truly the case that you can't afford dust collection then it's not advisable to be woodworking with power tools. (gasps of horror all round!!!)

    The whole field is a mess in my opinion. There's so many factors in play that conspire to create the situation:

    - The information that is available (for use in industry) regarding the risk that fine wood dust presents tends not to be put in common sense terms - it's typically in dry scientific/H&S/rules (what not why) language, and doesn't explicitly set out likely health consequences, and the hard realities they entail.
    - Airborne dust at the roughly 1 micron particle size that is most dangerous is invisible. (our lungs can't handle it)
    - We've been using wood for milennia. (but not with power tools that create fine dust)
    - Dishonest claims and/or avoidance of information provision by manufacturers.
    - Lousy dust handling performance of most DIY/hobby level woodworking machines and dust collection systems.
    - Lack of standards in respect of the above.
    - Lack of regulation in respect of the above.
    - Unwillingness of woodworking publications to call it as it is for fear of loss of manufacturer advertising and co-operation.
    - Political interference.
    - Patchy, toothless and ineffective regulation even in industry. (lots of bark, but not much bite - and often in practice muzzled by the politicos)
    - Lack of availability of reliable data on the performance of even quite widely sold equipment.
    - Lack of care in the industry (makers and users), and the resulting culture.
    - Our unwillingness to hear the (health) bad news on dust. (the above means we're not short of story lines by which to console ourselves)
    - Our unwillingness to invest in solving a problem that typically does not produce short term consequences.
    - Inability of most DIY/hobby systems sold to remove the fine dust that is actually the dangerous fraction.
    - Readiness of the vested interests to round on and attack anybody speaking directly on the topic.

    Etc Etc Etc Etc

    It's dead simple, but no different to the purposely created fog of conflicting information that surrounds the many situations in which people make lots of money selling questionable but convenient products to the public. (likely health negative stuff like food additives, fast food, pesticides, many pharmaceuticals, materials that emit unhealthy stuff, polluting energy sources etc etc) In the end for all sorts of selfish and short sighted reasons most people (both sellers and buyers) don't really want to know.

    Even the regulatory system seems to hover in a neverland between on the one hand maximising their personal gain (more and better jobs for the boys) - and on the other avoiding the pain of coming into conflict with the more powerful vested interests.

    It doesn't take a huge national bureaucracy to do the job. Just some clearly set out air quality targets, and few spot checks with consequences. Better still it doesn't need rules - just put out solid information from trusted and unbiased sources, and let people get on with it.

    The result of all this is that by the time the average DIY/hobby punter encounters the topic almost all semblance of truth and basis in reality has been lost. It's a pity in some respects that wood dust isn't either highly explosive, or highly toxic (with immediate health effects) - either or both would have long since ensured we'd have sorted out safe working methods. It's not rocket science....

    There's never going to be good answers available until we're ready to properly phrase and seriously ask the right (reality based) questions. The answers would quickly follow.....

    ian
    Last edited by ian maybury; 10-09-2012 at 12:41 PM.

  2. #32
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    +1 what Ian said.

    DC, wood clamps and measuring tools should be acquired before any power tools. Most power tools provide minimal DC options. DC in the states is an after thought at best which is a shame. When DC is a fundamental design matter for the engineer, the consumer benefits tremendously.

    Many hobbies are expensive. Wood working is no exception. DC frequently is an add on rather than a fundamental element of the shop. I'm guilty of this myself and have spent much time since my epiphany correcting the matter. My DC isn't perfect but the Dylos particle counter serves as my virtual canary in the coal mine. If I'm working in the shop, it's on. I get immediate data as to the quality of the air.

    If wood dust impacted us as immediately and forcefully as gravity (hence my previous mountain climbing analogy), the only discussions we would have about DC would be about improving it. Instead, because it takes time for its effects to take root, and this interval varies from person to person, opinions on DC are quite broad and varied.

    IMO, don't mess with your lungs. If you can not afford to protect them, find another hobby.
    Last edited by Greg Peterson; 10-09-2012 at 8:57 PM.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  3. #33
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    I agree with the last two posters. If your "can't afford" good dust collection, then take heed and wear adequate personal protection -- I wear a cartridge equipped face mask when I use my random orbit sander (that is also equipped with a dust hose to a shop vac via a mini cyclone), and I always wear ear protection and safety glasses when operating any power tools in my shop. You only get on pair of lungs, eyes and ears and they deserve to be protected! And do not rely on an air cleaner for fine dust -- as said, you are breathing it first. Good dust masks, ear protection and safety glasses are all inexpensive and should be first on everyone's must have list.
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  4. #34
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    The testing being done in Oz is conducted by a world authority in clean rooms from the Perth University using equipment far better than a Dylos. I have not seen anyone with near his qualifications or anyone at all for that matter take on the subject with anywhere near the methodology he is attempting. He is in fact a professor of physics hence his like of numbers, graphs etc. I hope some people from here join in and add to the debate, I encourage you all with an interest in this, to do so as it can only further the knowledge and we might even get some facts instead of myth, stories and supposition. I myself do not contribute much especially there due to commercial self interest in the subject but I do not like seeing facts trotted out without substantiation which most of this apart from the physical measurement of air flow and duct design. Phil if you do not agree with his findings please, please join in and present your case.
    Chris

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  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    The testing being done in Oz is conducted by a world authority in clean rooms from the Perth University using equipment far better than a Dylos. I have not seen anyone with near his qualifications or anyone at all for that matter take on the subject with anywhere near the methodology he is attempting. He is in fact a professor of physics hence his like of numbers, graphs etc. I hope some people from here join in and add to the debate, I encourage you all with an interest in this, to do so as it can only further the knowledge and we might even get some facts instead of myth, stories and supposition. I myself do not contribute much especially there due to commercial self interest in the subject but I do not like seeing facts trotted out without substantiation which most of this apart from the physical measurement of air flow and duct design. Phil if you do not agree with his findings please, please join in and present your case.
    The developer of the Dylos units uses (I think) a Fluke as a sort of reference. Maybe it is a Met One. It has been a while since I've spoken to him, but I believe he hails from the cleanroom industry in CA.

    I only looked briefly at some of the results that were being posted on the Australian site. I probably missed it, but I didn't see his methodology. Do you have a link for that? Like what gear he is using, where he is locating it during testing, etc.? There should be a "this is how to duplicate my results" post somewhere, but I couldn't find it.

  6. #36
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    I have a basement shop in 1/3 of the area. Rest of it is finished basement space so dust collection ks a top priority. I had a contractor saw for a bit, and after cutting a few feet of 2 x4, I coughed for a week straight.
    Now I have a dust collector, overhead collector and PT baffle with 4" piping. All told, spent about $700. I think it is pricy but far cheaper than medication and MD visits later in life.
    Not to hijack the thread, but what have others spent?
    Cutting rough stock lumber is like scrambling an egg, there is no going back

  7. #37
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    Accepting that dust collection is essential when using power tools the question becomes what solution(s) deliver(s) the best bang for the buck in terms of health vs. spend?

    That's where the debate comes apart at the seams. In that it's next to impossible to run a meaningful discussion about solutions without first getting specific about machine details and requirements. With size, hooding arrangements and type of work featuring high on the list....

    ian

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Howe View Post
    I have a basement shop in 1/3 of the area. Rest of it is finished basement space so dust collection ks a top priority. I had a contractor saw for a bit, and after cutting a few feet of 2 x4, I coughed for a week straight.
    Now I have a dust collector, overhead collector and PT baffle with 4" piping. All told, spent about $700. I think it is pricy but far cheaper than medication and MD visits later in life.
    Not to hijack the thread, but what have others spent?
    I'm in a similare situation as you Andrew with the shop layout. I have a Jet 1100DC with canister and a JDS overhead filter. I have a cabinet saw, so I think it is a little easier to control the dust than a contractor style saw. I spent $100 on the DC and $65 on the JDS + approximately $150 or so on ducting. I use a festool sander and vac for most of my sanding. I don't have dust out in the finished part, but do still have a layer in the shop. I'm planning an upgrade with 6" ducting and PT baffle once I finish the staining and finishing on the cabinet doors I am currently doing.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian maybury View Post
    Accepting that dust collection is essential when using power tools the question becomes what solution(s) deliver(s) the best bang for the buck in terms of health vs. spend?

    That's where the debate comes apart at the seams. In that it's next to impossible to run a meaningful discussion about solutions without first getting specific about machine details and requirements. With size, hooding arrangements and type of work featuring high on the list....

    ian
    I think this is exactly right if you are going to do DC properly. It should be considered a necessity like you would power supply for a new piece of equipment. Obviously, if you already have the power or DC available for the new tool, then you have minimal extra costs when adding the tool. On the other hand, based on my previous post, if I were to add a 36" wide belt sander, then I would need to consider adding DC as part of getting the sander operational.

    Mike

  10. #40
    Before you get hung up on this, I say that ANY DC is better than NO DC.

    Even a shop vac can be cheaply fitted with a homemade preseparator and good filters or a drywall bag.

    If you can vent outside, IMHO that's the best. You can also get cheap box fans and strap furnace filters on them. This will help keep the dust out of the rest of yr house.

    Get a 3m respirator for $17 also.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Before you get hung up on this, I say that ANY DC is better than NO DC.

    Even a shop vac can be cheaply fitted with a homemade preseparator and good filters or a drywall bag.

    If you can vent outside, IMHO that's the best. You can also get cheap box fans and strap furnace filters on them. This will help keep the dust out of the rest of yr house.

    Get a 3m respirator for $17 also.
    Very good points. I would like to add that while the shop-vac can be made to have a good capture efficiency of the small particles, the shortcoming can be that it may not exhaust enough volume to get the dust generated at the tool into the hose. for these cases though use the respirator as Prashun suggested. If you work outside, it helps, but depending on what you are doing, you may still want to wear the respirator.

    If you get in the habbit of this and make it part of your routine, you will notice a difference the next morning after having worked in the shop the day before. I can tell the difference and I have full lung capacity. Another thing it will make you do, is appreciate a more convenient and powerful DC system. I did not have a DC before I moved to a basement shop, I wish I had gotten one sooner and I wish the one I have was better.

  12. #42
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    I guess I'm just trying to be a bit purist about it Prashun - by encouraging a holding off in the rush to proposing solutions. In the hope that maybe it'll trigger some fresh insight. On the basis that it's usually better to try to understand the requirement/application first.

    As in there may be ways of getting reasonable dust collection while moving smaller quantities of air. (as Festool and the like seem to demonstrate) But getting it to work requires careful matching of dust systems, machine hooding and type of work (it's much more situation specific), and means that the air cleaning effect is minimal - meaning that there is even less tolerance for escape of dust.

    Higher flow systems are a little more 'buckshot' in approach, but they do seem to be quite a lot less fussy about machine and application specifics....

    ian

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Before you get hung up on this, I say that ANY DC is better than NO DC.
    I understand the sentiment you are expressing, but I will none the less disagree. A shop vac is incapable of moving the volume of air required to be an effective DC solution. Making a shop vac perform DC duties is a tall order for such a modest little machine. While it may capture a fair amount of chips, the lack of volume moved by the shop vac allows the harmful particles to escape and circulate in the shop space.

    I have a HF DC fitted with the PT baffle and Wynn filter. This unit gets hooked up to whatever tool I am using. Table saw, router, down draft sanding table, drill press and planer.


    My drill press table is basically a down draft table. This captures the fines very nicely.
    Drill Press Table (5).jpg


    My router fence has a hookup in the back for the shop vac, and the router sits in a box under the table that the DC hooks up to.
    Router Fence-05.jpg


    When I am doing finger joints, my jig captures chips as they come out the back of the board. DC is hooked up to the TS and shop vac plugs into the finger joint jig.
    Box joint Jig-004.JPG

    There is one thing about DC that does not get much discussion and that is how to enhance the collection at the point of creation. I bought my HF unit, installed the PT baffle and Wynn cartridge filter and thought I was done. Wrong.

    My table saw has a 4" DC port, but I still had to modify the cabinet so that the DC actually performed decent. None of my other tools provided any means of DC so I had to devise a means of capturing the fines at the point of creation. And this is the real challenge, IMO, of implementing an effective DC solution.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Peterson View Post
    I...... None of my other tools provided any means of DC so I had to devise a means of capturing the fines at the point of creation. And this is the real challenge, IMO, of implementing an effective DC solution
    +1. well stated, IMHO

  15. #45
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    I would agree as well that the real challenge in DC systems is the hooding. When I design industrial DC systems, I always start with the hood design. This sets my CFM and SP requirement for each branch. From there it is just a matter of sizing duct to maintain transport velocity and calculating the losses. I continue until I get through the cyclone/collector, fan and stack. If you don't design the hoods first, you will not able to size the duct, calculate the losses, size the collection equipment, and select the fan.

    I would still say that on most benchtop tools and probably most of the time with a drill press, a shop vac will provide ample flow. However, when you get to stationary tools such as table saws, jointers and planers, I think the shop-vac is not going to perform to your expectations. It just doesn't generate enough CFM at the typical hood. You may be able to improve the hooding and get better capture, but 100 CFM from a shop-vac is not much air to play with. When you can't get enough flow from the shop vac, and you don't want to buy a DC, I would go to a half mask respirator with PM filters. I would also work outside if at all possible too.

    When I worked out of my garage and before my DC, I used a shop vack on Delta lunchbox planer. I will say that it was better than nothing. However, its main benefit was in housekeeping. I didn't have to sweep AS MUCH to get all the chips up. It filled frequently, but that was better than shoveling wheel barrow fulls of sawdust out of the driveway. I never used it inside the garage as it would still make a huge mess. The little DC I have now does a decent job on the same planer with minimal cleanup. I still have the 4" hose and 4" machine connection so there is still room for improvement with the existing DC.

    Mike

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