Hi Jim

It was 5 years ago. I would have removed most of the waste with a coping saw, then ground the final shape on the wheel.

The idea was just an adaption/combination of a few ideas that have been floating around for many years. The idea of the type of jig to set the angle is old as the hills. It is worth looking at the LV site for their angle jig, which influenced my thought at the time. My jig is simply taking theirs one step further ..

http://www.leevalley.com/US/shopping...s.aspx?p=43212

If you wish to duplicate the existing angle on a blade, you can use the gauge to check this in one of two ways. On the shallow side of the gauge, there is a circular depression in the center; you can place the chisel face on the reference edges running into the circle and check it against each of the four angles that are marked (Figure 1). Alternatively, for more registration, you can place the gauge on a flat surface and check the blade under each angular face with the bevel butted up to the gauge (Figure 2).

You also need to know how thick the blade is to properly set the Grinder Tool Rest to your wheel. Place the blade on a reference edge running into the center circle, and note how many lines thick the blade is; most plane blades will be about one line thick, and most chisels will be less than two. This height is important because the angle gauge must touch the stone at 1/2 of the thickness of the blade in order to correctly set the angle (Figure 3).

Regards from Perth

Derek