Tooling up for M&T, DT, Workbench, Chisels, Sharpening.

[Cody Armstrong]

Hey folks!

Lately I've been extensively researching/reading old threads and am to the point where I really need some input from others.
There is so many suggestions and "This is what I use/have" answers, that I'm not sure what to do. I'm trying to do this reasonably economically but am willing to spend the money where it really counts.

My list for starters:
Bench chisels PMV11. Currently out of stock until end of Jan. So I'll be waiting unfortunately.
Veritas DT saw. --orderd
Veritas rip/crosscut saw set. Currently on sale.-- ordered
Titemark marking gauge--ordered
The rest I can get by on as I have coping saw and cheap chisels.
No block plane for now. I've got a couple old planes that need cleaning up and I can practice sharpening the irons with.
Will make the Sellers dovetail template.

Workbench: I have the Chris Shwarz workbench book on order.

Sharpening:
I'm planning on getting the Pro Series Shaptons with the expensive flattening plate and the MK2 guide.
I'm not sure what grits to get here.

I'm thinking the 220, 2000-3000, 5000, 8000.
This area is where I need some input/help with please.
Should I go with the 2000 or 3000. I don't know which to choose?
Leave out the 220 and use sandpaper on flat surface?
As of now I'm not planning to take it higher than 8000 unless otherwise suggested.
Can someone please help with this area.

Gratefully,
Cody

[Chris Vandiver]

Hey folks!

Lately I've been extensively researching/reading old threads and am to the point where I really need some input from others.
There is so many suggestions and "This is what I use/have" answers, that I'm not sure what to do. I'm trying to do this reasonably economically but am willing to spend the money where it really counts.

My list for starters:
Bench chisels PMV11. Currently out of stock until end of Jan. So I'll be waiting unfortunately.
Veritas DT saw. --orderd
Veritas rip/crosscut saw set. Currently on sale.-- ordered
Titemark marking gauge--ordered
The rest I can get by on as I have coping saw and cheap chisels.
No block plane for now. I've got a couple old planes that need cleaning up and I can practice sharpening the irons with.
Will make the Sellers dovetail template.

Workbench: I have the Chris Shwarz workbench book on order.

Sharpening:
I'm planning on getting the Pro Series Shaptons with the expensive flattening plate and the MK2 guide.
I'm not sure what grits to get here.

I'm thinking the 220, 2000-3000, 5000, 8000.
This area is where I need some input/help with please.
Should I go with the 2000 or 3000. I don't know which to choose?
Leave out the 220 and use sandpaper on flat surface?
As of now I'm not planning to take it higher than 8000 unless otherwise suggested.
Can someone please help with this area.

Gratefully,
Cody

Shapton Pro 1000, 5000(not totally necessary) and 8000. Get Atoma 400 flattening plate. Use sandpaper for gross removal. Get Eclipse style guide(side clamping, about $15).

[Steve Friedman]

Just a couple of sharpening suggestion.

1. Instead of the expensive Shapton flattening plate, check out the Atoma #400 Diamond Plate. Best price from Stu at Tools From Japan

2. Hold off on the Mk2 guide. Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen are both coming out with new side clamping honing guides, supposedly in early 2014. The Mk2 is OK, but struggles with thin chisels and I find side clamping jigs easier to use.

3. I have a 1000 Shapton Pro and like it, but haven't used any of the other Shaptons. I use Sigma stones (also from Stu) and couldn't be happier. There's a 1000 (or 1200) - 6000 - 13000 set with an Atoma diamond plate that is probably the best bang for your buck. Regardless of the brand, I think you want to start with a 1000-ish stone and end with a stone in the 10000 range. You can get one stone to bridge those two, but may people just skip that. You certainly don't need three stones from 2000 to 8000.

4. I have low grit water stones (120 - 320 - 400), but really prefer 3M Gold PSA sandpaper (80 - 120 - 220 - 400) on granite for any back flattening and repairing edges. Quicker and easier. I use the 320 and 400 grit water stones after the sandpaper just to make the work on the 1000/1200 stone go a bit quicker. The 3M Gold PSA has an A-weight (vert thin) backing that helps avoid dubbing and the adhesive leaves no residue.

You don't indicate, but assume you have things like a marking knife, square, and good lighting. Also, don't forget the blue tape (see Derek Cohen's website www.inthewoodshop.com for using blue tape when marking dovetails. Priceless.

Good luck,

Steve

[Cody Armstrong]

Wonderful!

Just watched the vids on Stu's site. I will go with this set for sure. Much more economical.
He offers a hard and soft #1000 grit stone. Which one do I need? Can you please point me in the right direction.

Will definitely wait on the jig as you suggest.

[Justin Florentine]

Another (much cheaper) sharpening solution for beginners is the Scary Sharp method. Silicon Carbide sandpaper and a plate of glass. Google has good results, and Rockler sells starter packs of the paper you need for $10.

[Jim Koepke]

He offers a hard and soft #1000 grit stone. Which one do I need? Can you please point me in the right direction.

That would be a good question for Stu. He should be able to tell you which will work better with the PM V11 chisels.

Coming in late here. My set up of 1000, 4000 & 8000 stones works fine for me. Most of the time all that is needed is a refreshing on the 4000 & 8000. If there is a nick or if the blade has been in use beyond just a little touch up the 1000 stone works fast enough to get things going again.

I have some lower grit stones but it is just a lot less trouble to do those jobs with sandpaper on granite.

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

Only thing I would make differently about my bench is that I would have made a split top out of two solid pieces of 12/4 rock maple. Rather than doing a lamination.

Easier to do and does not require battens.

[Cody Armstrong]

Another (much cheaper) sharpening solution for beginners is the Scary Sharp method. Silicon Carbide sandpaper and a plate of glass. Google has good results, and Rockler sells starter packs of the paper you need for $10.

Yea. I've looked at this approach and was almost sold but I have the extra money right now and want to just get-r-done. Don't really want to muck around with the paper. By the time I spend the money on ordering paper, buying a thick plate of glass and or granite........ You get the idea of where I'm going with it.

[Cody Armstrong]

Only thing I would make differently about my bench is that I would have made a split top out of two solid pieces of 12/4 rock maple. Rather than doing a lamination.

Easier to do and does not require battens.

I'm considering a split top. I like the idea of setting tools out of the way in a trough. I know they will hit the floor. I will have to laminate the maple top. I don't have access to 12/4 unfortunately.
I'm taking the advice that was given in an old thread and reading Shwarz's book first. As much as I want to buy materials, order vices, and get started I am being patient with this.

[Cody Armstrong]

That would be a good question for Stu. He should be able to tell you which will work better with the PM V11 chisels.

Coming in late here. My set up of 1000, 4000 & 8000 stones works fine for me. Most of the time all that is needed is a refreshing on the 4000 & 8000. If there is a nick or if the blade has been in use beyond just a little touch up the 1000 stone works fast enough to get things going again.

I have some lower grit stones but it is just a lot less trouble to do those jobs with sandpaper on granite.

jtk

I will ask Stu which is best.

[Brian Holcombe]

One does not necessarily exclude the other. Determine which vises you would like to use before building anything.

I built my bench in the way I did because of the projects I build. I think it's an important consideration for anyone building a bench.

[Cody Armstrong]

I'm considering the Veritas quick release front vice http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...=1,41637,41659

and the tail vice http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...=1,41637,41659

Any thoughts on these?

[Chuck Nickerson]

... d the tail vice http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...=1,41637,41659
Any thoughts on these?

I installed the QR tail vise several months ago and am quite happy. The bench-top I retrofitted I to was tailor-made for this vise.
The top is 1-3/4"thick with a 6" skirt. I just cut off the part of the skirt that became vise jaw and the install was smooth.

One thing I did that was smart was putting threaded inserts in the vertical faces of the wooden vise jaws.
It's now easy to make and secure shop aids such as specialty vise jaws at various heights.

[Randy Karst]

+1 on the Sigma set (w/ Atoma #400 Diamond Plate), I went with the hard (per Stu's guidance) and am very satisfied!

[Cody Armstrong]

I'm now very seriously looking at the Benchcrafted tail vise and crisscross hardware. The plans also.
I hope it's not considered a cop-out to go with their plans. Would make life a lot easier.