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Thread: Getting a spur center to dig in

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    362

    Getting a spur center to dig in

    I have a 4 prong spur center that is difficult to get a bite on really hard woods. I don't want to pound it into my blanks, with fear of splitting the wood. Sometimes I can make 4 divots with a 1/2" chisel to give the spur blades something to dig into, but even that risks splitting the blank. How do you guys handle this?

  2. #2
    i bought a new lathe, the jet stock spur center prongs were longer than the previous lathe that i had.....suggest you buy a new 4 prong spur center

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chicago Heights, Il.
    Posts
    2,136
    Take it to the bandsaw and cut diagonally from corner. You won't need much pressure at all to spin the wood. Also reduce the exposure of the pin if the blank is small. It can split small pieces also.
    Member Illiana Woodturners

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Ottawa, ON Canada
    Posts
    1,476
    I pound mine in with a mallet. I did read once that making sure that none of the prongs line up with the grain direction is a good idea. I've not bothered, but it can't hurt. One turner that I know has ground off two of the four spurs. It makes it easier to get a solid bite on surfaces that aren't flat and it's easier to make sure that the spurs are cross grain. You can buy large, two prong spurs, too.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kapolei Hawaii
    Posts
    3,236
    Sharpen the prongs and pound the spur in with a mallet. If the wood splits, you don't want to turn it.

  6. #6
    I use a method I learned many years ago from Berea, Ky legend Rude Oslonik. I replaced the center spur with one that protrudes about 1/2" (made from a nail) and I put stock on with the lathe running. With the tip spinning there is rarely any splitting. I remove finished stock by spinning the tailstock off and grabbing the turning. I can turn for hours without turning off the lathe. Production mentality.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Albuquerque NM
    Posts
    500
    My spur center is huge. It is a #4 taper and it is 2" across the prongs. On hard wood I have to drill a hold for the point and then I use a small sledge hammer and a piece of hard wood to drive it in. The hard wood is to protect the end of the spur from the hammer. I also sharpened the prongs on the grinder. They were very dull. If they made one of the new fangled centers for a #4 MT, I'd get one.
    Do or do not, there is no try.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Roseville,Ca
    Posts
    455
    Two spurs and a dead blow hammer has worked for years. Can't remember ever splitting the blank.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Green Valley, Az.
    Posts
    1,202
    I haven't used a spur center for a long time....I much prefer my steb center. Grips well and never spins out. I have a couple of sizes.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    362
    Thanks for the replies folks. I'll admit that I've never sharpened the wings on my spur drive, and it's probably 50 years old. Maybe it's time to invest in a couple of those steb jobbies.

  11. #11
    I use a steb on everything that's not green. Green wood I use a 4 prong driven in with a mallet. Always keep the prongs on your centers sharp,some can be done on the grinder so use a file.
    Comments and Constructive Criticism Welcome

    Haste in every craft or business brings failures. Herodotus,450 B.C.

  12. #12
    Well, I cheat. I use a steb center just long enough to turn a tenon on one end and then reverse into the chuck.

    robo hippy

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