What Tools to shape Axe Handle for Axe Eye?

[adam breuer]

I need to fit some hickory axe handles a few axe heads (I'm not making the handles -- just shaping the eye portion to fit the axe head). I was planning to do this with my go-to Nicholson #49 rasp, but it occurred to me that this forum might know of a particular scraper/rasp/? or process that would work a lot better. So, what tools or process would you use to accomplish this?

For those of you who like axes, below are the two candidates: a 5+lb Kelly Perfect Jersey from Charleston, w.v. ca 1904-1930 and a 4lb True Temper / Kelly Perfect Jersey pattern from a slightly later era. Pictures taken prior to sharpening.

[Jim Koepke]

I was planning to do this with my go-to Nicholson #49 rasp, but it occurred to me that this forum might know of a particular scraper/rasp/? or process that would work a lot better. So, what tools or process would you use to accomplish this?

I would be using the rasp, a few chisels, maybe a gouge, spokeshaves and any other tool in my shop that seemed like it would help.

Couple of nice wood choppers there.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

I used a drawknife, a rasp and a solid block on the concrete floor to "drift" the head into place.

I suppose a spokeshave set to take a deeper cut would work.

[george wilson]

The Mark I eyeball gauge is also useful.

[Edward Clarke]

Go to Youtube and put "forestry service an axe to grind" in the search bar. The first result "US Forest Service, An Axe to Grind - Complete Documentary" starts in putting a new handle onto an axe at about 2:52 in. Beware - if you start watching this video you can end up several hours later wondering where the day went.

[john davey]

Interesting video. He mentioned to never put a steel wedge in cross grain on an axe. Is this the same for a hammer? I am assuming so but I see this done allot with hammers. Thanks, John...

[David Weaver]

Your nicholson rasp should be fine. These days, I'd be more concerned about locating a good handle to start with. There were a lot of dogs the last time I went to the hardware store to get a double bit handle.

Love the pre TT perfect pattern. 5 pounds is a man's axe!!

I've got a 4 pounder exactly like your bottom one.

Make sure you have a nice mill file to do a nice job shaping the edge, and make a guard on the file to keep your fingers away from the edge.

[harry strasil]

On the Several Thousand, Axes, Hatchets, Hammers, Sledges and a Catalogue of other striking devices I have rehandled thru the years. Drawknife, Spokeshave, Rasp and Sandpaper (surplus Sanding Belt). Remember if you make a slip fit, it will never stay tight, Driving home the handle should be done with the handle held tightly in your off hand with the head off the floor and hammering should be done on the end of the handle. You should have a very thin curl of wood left from driving home the handle, I used a serrated sickle section from a farm hay mower to saw this curl flush with the head. An old hack saw blade would work also. The wooden wedge should be driven into the slot in the handle end and the steel wedges, not the round kind, driven in at a 45° to the wood wedge. Make your own wedges by band sawing them from the old handle as its dry and shrunk up all its going to.

[Don Orr]

Interesting and helpful information in this thread. I have a question about something I was taught by an old timer carpenter many years ago about striking-tool handles regarding grian orientation. I was told that when looking at the tail end of a handle (opposite of the head end) that the growth rings should be parallel to the long axis of the tool head for maximum strength. Kind of hard to explain without a photo or diagram, neither of which I can provide at this time. Does this make sense? Last time I went out to find a new axe handle I had a very hard time finding what I wanted. I bought a few that were of the grain orientation I was told was best. The others were terrible with grain run-out along the contoured handle and looked like they would break on the first hit.

[Tony Shea]

Interesting and helpful information in this thread. I have a question about something I was taught by an old timer carpenter many years ago about striking-tool handles regarding grian orientation. I was told that when looking at the tail end of a handle (opposite of the head end) that the growth rings should be parallel to the long axis of the tool head for maximum strength. Kind of hard to explain without a photo or diagram, neither of which I can provide at this time. Does this make sense? Last time I went out to find a new axe handle I had a very hard time finding what I wanted. I bought a few that were of the grain orientation I was told was best. The others were terrible with grain run-out along the contoured handle and looked like they would break on the first hit.

That is probably the exact reason that David said he struggled finding a proper handle last time he looked. For some reason or another this important factor of grain orientation has been lost along the way.

The same holds true on baseball bats and where the symbol is printed on the bat. THis is why you are always taught to have this symbol facing up at you when you hold the bat.

It is much easier to get this grain orientation right when you make your own handle.

[Joe Bailey]

Like this ...

Untitled art 1.jpg

[harry strasil]

The drawing Joe put up is correct, In the olden days main horizontal support beams, ie Rafters, Floor Joists etc, that had to withstand a considerable weight were always installed with the grain shown, as the beam is much stronger in this orientation due to the fact it will not flex easily. If flipped a quarter turn, the beam will flex considerably, and as the layers of thr grain will flex a lot, they often fail in use, test take some multiple layers of 1/8 hardboard an inch wide and lay them back to back and use a rubber band on each end, set them opposite of the above drawing and put your finger on them, they will flex quite a bit and if you go a bit to far, (SNAP). Now flip a quarter turn and put 10 times the weight on it and it won't flex or maybe just a bit.
That is why I purchased my hammer handles, axe and sledge from the small company in Missouri, because there handles were all orientated RIGHT.

[Pat Barry]

That is why I purchased my hammer handles, axe and sledge from the small company in Missouri, because there handles were all orientated RIGHT.

I haven't been in the market for a handle. Are you saying that some places, who make handles for axes, hammers, etc, actually make handles that are no good? Unreal to me that they wouldn't know that the grain direction matters and actuallly do things to ensure that the grain is lined up properly. Unbelievable? Whats their rationale for this?

[David Weaver]

An ideal handle has the orientation shown earlier in this thread, no runout where possible, and no heartwood.

The orientation of the grain in the hardware store handles is fairly random with quite a few cut as if they're cut out of a quartered board with some runout (a very bad combination), there is heartwood in a lot of them and they have a very heavy coat of lacquer on them, probably just under the long term assumption that they need to be protected until sale and maybe after if a ham handed seldom user buys one.

I'd imagine there is zero handwork in making those handles and the lowest grade of handles (the ones that just go to hardware stores to be sold at a low price) come out of the log however they come out. One doesn't know if there are any other factors, such as perhaps the bright white clear very good handles being pulled out of the bunch and sold elsewhere. That would make the average hardware store handle even worse.

I'll settle for something rift sawn with little runout and no heartwood, it'll have enough strength. It's for the missed strikes and such that you want the handle to be oriented properly. If the handle isn't oriented properly, a hard missed strike can crack the handle while a good handle won't be cracked.

[Mel Fulks]

The drawing Joe posted makes sense but is not in agreement with an earlier test carefully done by another member with a different wood. What are the variables? Wood species? Other? Or is one just wrong? P.S. Other test did not involve handles ,just difference in deflection under same stress