Do You Use a Screw Chuck?...A Glue Block?...

[Justin Stephen]

...where sb had small amount of tearpout where lj used faceplate with no tearout.......it was very interesting day at fisherville

What is the theory as to why?

[Wally Dickerman]

What is the theory as to why?

More secure. Little less vibration.

[charlie knighton]

sb attributed the tearout as dirt under the moveable headstock, sb did turn the tearout away, lyle attributed sb's tearout to the chuck, he advocated using the faceplate, just use a larger blank......both sb and lyle will be doing rotations at pittsburg.......sb said Saturday night that he was doing 6 rotations plus working his vendor spacestation at lunch, not sure how many rotations lyle will be doing, would really like to see a panel on any subject with both of them on it with maybe an extra wildcard like raffen added.....or maybe Wally could attend the panel, give us a chance to meet him....

lyle said glue block with faceplate fine

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Wally, I read your posts with respect and enthusiasm. I usually can't wait to go try something you advocate.
I am looking at the picture on your post and realizing how much working room you have between the hollow form and the chuck. I assume you left more thickness there to do the hollowing then worked down the outside of the bottom when the inside was nearly finished.
Too bad California and Pennsylvania have so many states between or I would haunt your shop. Thanks for any of your experience you are willing to share.
faust

[charlie knighton]

Terry M. and I got together midweek after the symposium....we talked about sb 40/40 grind....and then we talked about faceplates and chucks........we did decide using the chuck with the screw provided you still ended up with the same as a chuck......Terry was in favor of using a screw chuck.....I had only used the screw chuck with chuck so did not know anything.......Terry uses faceplates with waste block on all his bowls........just something to put in the back of your mind.......have 2 @ 6" faceplates steel, have bunch of 3" alum faceplates......my good screws do not fit my alum faceplates.......$52 for 4" steel faceplate, more for a screwchuck........hoping something will pop up..........

[Wally Dickerman]

Wally, I read your posts with respect and enthusiasm. I usually can't wait to go try something you advocate.
I am looking at the picture on your post and realizing how much working room you have between the hollow form and the chuck. I assume you left more thickness there to do the hollowing then worked down the outside of the bottom when the inside was nearly finished.
Too bad California and Pennsylvania have so many states between or I would haunt your shop. Thanks for any of your experience you are willing to share.
faust

Faust, you are exactly right. A lot of what I do in turning you probably won't find in books or videos. My style....developed over a lot of years. A lot of us in Arizona are a bit insulted if you refer to us as Californian.s

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

A lot of us in Arizona are a bit insulted if you refer to us as Californian.s

Woops!! Sorry Wally. Let's see, Arizona.......That's a few less states in between. You're getting closer by the minute.
faust

[charlie knighton]

you really do not get the full effect of the vanishing with a small footed hf when its on the lathe, need to view from above

[robert baccus]

I evolved a method years ago that has been used on many 100# vase blanks. Start with a very hard glueblock (dogwood,beech) 1.5"x3" drilled and mounted on a 5/8" nova 2 screw chuck. True it to your machine every time. Most of my turnings are endgrain and very green so screws are out. I use thick fresh CA glue on the blank/block. Center it up with the tailstock and apply a bit of pressure. These hold for ourside turning and deep hollowing and finishing. One advantage is you can remove the piece from the screw in seconds and work on other pieces while your vase is drying. The long glueblock will last for years after parting off. Being long you can grab the glueblock with a big channel locks and remove it just holding the glueblock for finish drying. You can get 6-7 pieces going off and on with some drying all the time. CA is the only glue that holds well on wet wood.

[Thomas Canfield]

I like to use the worm screw in my chuck to mount smaller work (say 10" down) and a face plate for larger work. I have a 2-7/8" Forstner bit that works to provide a flat face for the worm screw and a 3-1/8" Forstner bit for a 3" face plate. For my 6" face plate I do the best possible to get a flat surface and use a lot of screws. I like to use a glue block to utilize the thickness of better woods, but do not like a glue block on green wood. Sometimes the glue block is incorporated as a feature in a base ring, but usually turned off.

[Wally Dickerman]

I like to use the worm screw in my chuck to mount smaller work (say 10" down) and a face plate for larger work. I have a 2-7/8" Forstner bit that works to provide a flat face for the worm screw and a 3-1/8" Forstner bit for a 3" face plate. For my 6" face plate I do the best possible to get a flat surface and use a lot of screws. I like to use a glue block to utilize the thickness of better woods, but do not like a glue block on green wood. Sometimes the glue block is incorporated as a feature in a base ring, but usually turned off.

I like the Large forstner bit idea to get a true surface.

[Thomas Canfield]

I like the Large forstner bit idea to get a true surface.

I will also shim up the blank to get the orientation wanted before using the Forstner bit. That works for drilling the bark side or a rough cut from chain saw. Make sure you go with the slower drill speed as recommended. That eliminates the hassle of trying to hold a heavy chuck between centers to get orientation desired.

[Eric Gourieux]

you really do not get the full effect of the vanishing with a small footed hf when its on the lathe, need to view from above

Charlie, can you elaborate? I missed your point

[David Delo]

Timely subject for me as I have started to do more deeper hollowing of vases and look to begin making some true HF shapes and trying to decide what the shape is going to be and how I'm going to fixture it. Currently I either turn between centers or use the chuck worm screw to form a tenon or recess. I'm under the following assumptions for using glue blocks. 1.) If using dry block to dry blank, the proper glue type would be something like Titebond and then you need to wait 24 hours.2.) If using dry block to wet blank, the proper glue type would be CA glue and you could machine it almost immediately. Regardless if the block is held by a screw chuck or tenon, I guess my hang-up with trying the glue block idea thus far has been the wait time of conventional glue or the expense of the CA glue versus the benefit of the gained working space. C & C welcome, I'm learning.

[robert baccus]

I would use CA all the time to save time. Screw chucks are not for endgrain or green soft woods--everything else is OK. If CA glue is a cost thing you sure have a lot of expensive equipment in the pic. You are really talking about a dime per glueblock use.