Router Planing Sled Problems

[Charles Li]

I built a sled to plane some endgrain cutting boards. My first problem was the bit would cut deeper after each pass making ridges in the piece. I kept thinking my sled was flexing only to finally realize the bit was moving down. It's a Porter Cable 890. Do collets go bad? Did I brake it by over tightening or something? It's actually new so maybe defective or am I missing something else obvious? It's moving the tiniest bit but enough to make the operation useless. Thinking of buying another collet. I used the same bit on another router and worked great w/o ridges! However, my other problem now is there are these faint lines on the edges of my passes. Sanding doesn't take it completely away (or maybe I have to sand like crazy?). Actually, it's almost like lines from mowing the lawn. All the grass goes in one way. Each pass has this different look to it even though I go the same direction (pull toward) on each pass. Should I just sand like crazy in hopes to even it out or is there a better technique? Thanks!

[Jeff Bartley]

You might have the bit bottomed out in the collet or it's packed with sawdust. I've had good luck with end grain boards using a drum sander to flatten and then a very sharp low-angle jack plane for the finished surface. Y

[Jeff Bartley]

Continued (typing on my phone).. .....you could skip the sander but it would take longer. Or you could follow the drum sander with a random orbit hand sander. But nothing beats that low-angle jack!

[Charles Li]

No drum sander or low angle jack plane. I initially tried a bench plane but it was a bit of a disaster. Guy threw an old plane in with one of my failed CL purchases. Really hard to dial in and I have no technique (had someone else sharpen as that didn't go well either for me). I've never done hand planing before and using the "wrong" plane on end grain hardwood seemed like a bad place to start. Oh, and my "workbench" moves which doesn't help lol. Old owner left it. It's not for woodworking so I guess it wasn't made to be that stable. Geez, I really need to build one but wanted to finish off these cutting boards heh.

[Chuck Hart]

You need to start eliminating problems. Start with finding a way to stabilize the workbench so it doesn't move. Second you need to make sure your sled is level and everything is parallel. There are other places to look for help. This link will take you to a router forum that has a great thread on router ski's. Here is the link. You may have to join the forum but it's free:

routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/23799-beginners-guide-making-router-skis.html

It's easier if you use this method. I've seen people level work benches with it. Also search the early issues of the woodwhisperer.com he leveld a bench using a sled and he shows how to set it up. Just search his archive. Also there are a number of great ideas here. Use the search feature and you will find all kinds of things. Good luck.

[Ellery Becnel]

I have gone through the same issues you have, except the collet issue. No matter what speed, depth of cut or what brand or style of router bit you try it will still result in fuzzy tear out. Then the fun sanding starts. Makes you want to say I am done with this. And as you have found out, end grain on hard woods are TOUGH! I built a V-Drum sander based on the Stockroom Supply design. It works great. I have ordered a VERITAS Bevel-Up Smother Plane, with the PM-V11 blade. I also added the toothed blade. I also plan on building me a planning bench that I can work them from all sides with the plane. Always looking for ways to make this process easier. Listening to everyone who makes end grain boards you hear the same thing, sanding is the worst. Hang in there, when I get my plane and bench built I will let everyone know how it helps or not.

Also router forums is an excellent forum with great people always willing to share and help out. Just like this forum! Thanks to everyone, I have truly learned a lot.


Ellery Becnel

[Tom M King]

Collets do wear out.

[Vince Shriver]

Though not germane to the OP's question, how about posting a picture of your V-drum sander. Sounds very interesting.

[Ellery Becnel]

Vince,
I will have to take some pictures and post it. The ones I have are with my I Phone. They all come out upside down when I try and post. It seems to be a common problem.
Hopefully tomorrow evening I can make It happen.

Ellery Becnel

[John Coloccia]

Question: when you install the router bit, are you letting it bottom out or do you leave a bit of room? If you let the bit bottom out, it will be very difficult or impossible to actually get the collet tightened around the bit. As it tightens down, it tries to pull the router bit a little deeper into the spindle. If the bit is already bottomed out, the nut will feel tight but in fact the router bit could be loose enough to drift down, or even fall out completely.

Anyhow, just a thought.

[Charles Li]

Thanks for the routerforum links I will check that out. I think took the non-conventional build and have the router fixed to some mdf and move the whole thing as opposed to more ridged fixed rails. My thought was the mdf would be the flatest thing possible but perhaps I made it too wide and it's flexing from the weight of the router.

Regarding the bit bottoming out I'm trying to leave it about an 1/8th out of the collet. I figured the deeper the more secure but it sounds like it's the complete opposite. I'll try pulling it out more. That makes sense it can grip better if there's space at the bottom. I did order another collet but maybe I didn't have to. No biggie if that's the problem as it's not too expensive.

As for the lines I think the cut it's just so much more rough that I'm used to seeing. The cuts on my TS from my WWII blade is crazy smooth and this grizzly router bit leaves it pretty rough. I'm mixing maple and jatoba and the dust is embedding into it. Is that normal for a router bit? It's new and assumed I didn't have to sharpen or anything. I have no reference. Takes a long time to sand even with 40grit. Maybe I should just get a proper hand plane like others suggest. Guess I that workbench sooner than later!

[John Coloccia]

I have some jigs that essentially work like rails for a router. I always make them out of a lamination. Typically, I use Honduran mahogany with some much stiffer wood in the center. Last time I used Wenge, I believe. I need to remake some. I think I'll experiment with a 5 ply lamination of Mahogany, Carbon Fiber, M, CF, M. That should be absolutely stiff and stable. The reason for the mahogany faces is so I can pass them through the jointer and planer when I'm done to get them dead flat and straight.

1/8" is plenty, by the way. If you're really doing that, that's not your problem.

You may also want to check if the bit is actually dropping at all. Another source of lines is the bit not being perpendicular to the surface to the jig (any CNC guy will tell you just how annoying that is!). In other words, it's possible that the bit isn't perfectly perpendicular to the router base. You may want to check that with a square and correct it before doing anything else.

[Charles Li]

Just wanted to up date that I got a cheap HF belt sander to clean up the lines. Takes a lot longer than I thought even with a belt sander! I'm guessing with a better sled setup like suggested it'd save some time but working well enough for this project. I did get a new collet and will update when I try it. Thanks all for the help!

[Kevin Jenness]

Take it to a shop with a wide belt sander, save time and get better results.

[Herb Linderman]

I made quite a few end grain cutting boards out of maple and cherry following the video from the Wood Whisperer site. I ran them through my Dewalt DW 735 planer with a Byrd head. I glued a narrow piece on the back end so that as the piece emerged out of the cutter path the back edge did not chip out. I then trimmed off the strip using my sled and table saw. Worked great and very little sanding required. I took light cuts due to reading about the dangers of blowing up experiences of others. Never tried it with straight blades, might have had different results.