Member
[QUOTE=Jim Matthews;2340333]I really like the T-track. My current trouble is keeping boards that aren't squared in place.
There's a natural tendency for the board to move away from the plane.
Thanks. To be honest t-track clamp by itself can slip unless care is taken or it is really cranked down. Sandpaper would help I guess.
[OP]
Member
I wouldn't think it should be necessary.
In the videos that started me thinking, Terry Gordon just has his
workpieces held by a bench dog and tail vise.
I suspect he's got both better technique, and a sharper blade than me.
I'm going to try mine with adjustable stops held by holdfasts.
I don't want to drill more holes, but I might use a Veritas planing stop
if the adjustable stops drift.
My money is on the blade being the limiting factor.
Member
Another trick you can employ to help with gluing up panels like this is to joint both boards at the same time.
If you have two boards and sandwich them together so that the edges that will be glued together are both up, then getting that perfectly square doesn’t really matter. Since you are jointing both boards at the same time, any error will exist on both sides of the joint and be complementary, so the resulting fit will be flat, even if each edge is not square to its face.
Contributor
Jim, good work on the shooting board.
Stewie, there is an advantage for some in the shooting board above match planing. In match planing (which is what I do), you still have to account for a match along one axis, the length. What match planing does is account for the side-to-side angle. The shooting board looks like it will deal with both.
I was earlier going to suggest that a fence on a jointer would be a better jig than the shooting board as it able to deal with any size boards - and having a wooden plane (HNT Gordon), this would be an easy addition (pics below). However, a fence does not automatically provide a flat length, only a square edge.
Regards from Perth
Derek
[OP]
Member
From the original post, above -
"It's MUCH easier than the matchplaning method I've been using."
Match planing doesn't redress the problems arising from twist, or cup
created by the plane. The point of the shooting board is to confine the
cutting angle to one continuous plane.
The benefit is that the blade stops cutting when the plane reaches the square edge of the shooting board.
When no more shavings appear - the edge should be straight and square.
That's the theory, anyway.
Guest
Answer a question for a non-neander that is curious: What prevents the plane from cutting into the shooting board itself?
That is a pretty neat idea (a long shooting board). Very similar to my straight-line ripper for my table saw.
Last edited by Phil Thien; 11-30-2014 at 2:13 PM.
Member
Stewie, there is an advantage for some in the shooting board above match planing. In match planing (which is what I do), you still have to account for a match along one axis, the length. What match planing does is account for the side-to-side angle. The shooting board looks like it will deal with both.
Hi Derek. Isn't that the reason why a long jointer plane is the plane of choice when match planing.
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 11-30-2014 at 12:19 PM.
Contributor
Stewie, if you attempt to joint an edge which is higher in the centre, long plane or not, all you will achieve is planing a curve. It is necessary first to remove the "hump". Long jointer planes only help when there is a low in the centre of the board. It is necessary to first create this situation.Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson
Regards from Perth
Derek
Contributor
Jim,
Thanks for going through the effort to show this method. It was poo poo'd by the masters on a previous thread as unnecessary but I personally think this is the only way to fly (using hand tools). Numerous comments such as "you need to learn to see straight" - complete nonsense in my opinion - any two year old can see straight. A reference point for straight coupled with a reference point for square such as this method provides is a method for the masses. The masters can work unassisted and get great results - that's why they are masters. I'm happy being a hobbyist that appreciates a little help.
Guest
If you want to use a jig, that's fine. Dismissing comments from people who actually use mostly or only hand hand tools is foolish when you don't.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 11-30-2014 at 9:13 PM.
Contributor
Like I said, masters do not need any such assistance to achieve perfection. My comments are very relevant for those not quite so well endowed with handtool expertise. I thought that came across very clearly in my posting.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 11-30-2014 at 9:14 PM.
Guest
I'm a hobbyist like most others on here. I just don't assume that I can't do something if I fail at it a few times first.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 11-30-2014 at 9:11 PM.
[OP]
Member
I found this to be MUCH simpler, and it's a crutch - no doubt.
My vision is fading, and it's difficult for me to get a good look at what I'm doing,
while I'm in the middle of the process. I can't see straight, and that's where this shines -
I don't need to. The shooting board defines the plane of the last pass, and that has been
verified as straight - a reference.
The chief advantage of this is that it limits how much I can "twist" the plane as I go.
The worst I can to is tip the blade toward the workpiece. By design, that's limited to one side.
Can I do it the other way?
Sure.
Will I, again?
Only if the board is less than 20" long.
Would my teachers whip my lazy posterior for making this?
* meh *
I do this maybe 12 hours in a week. It's a time saver.
Moderator
With due respect, i too am a hobbyist and i found the advice to learn to see straight a revelation. I personally appreciate the more skilled guys pushing me to go the next level.
Member
Hi Derek. What your saying is true but comes back to good technique and understanding what your doing. That is why you sight along the edge 1st to determine whether your dealing with a round or a hollow. That then determines your starting point. Its not rocket science. The technique has been used for generations of tradesmen. A shooting board on the other hand was never designated for that sole purpose and was primarily used for end grain work. Because others have abandoned the traditional technique is not the fault of the technique, but a lack of proper understanding and application by those that abandoned it. The belies the difference between a woodworker that had to utilize these skills for a living, and those that practice it for a hobby. One repeats and again repeats that practice until he gets it right. The other doesn't have the time or self determination to learn it correctly, and generally abandons that proven technique, and looks for another alternative that will remove a lot of the skill base.
Its no different to why their is such a healthy market in new designed hand planes. They are dealing with a market of primarily hobbyist that aren't prepared spend the time learning how to properly fettle their earlier made planes, and are some what drawn into the sales pitch that these newer planes will solve all your problems. That may seem the case initially when all the parts are brand new, but the primary failure of proper understanding will again rear its ugly head when that newer plane reaches the point of requiring it own fettling, and then its off to purchase a newer version of hand plane that promises them that elusive pot of gold.
I am at a loss sometimes in trying to understanding those that will only dedicate a short period of time learning a new technique, then when all is not as it should be, blame that proven technique, or the tool being used, as the sole reasons for their failings.
Heck. If you want to take away all the skill required, place the boards together with a slight overlap, and cut through both boards at the same time. Its a proven technique used in veneer work that result in 2 matching edges for a precise butt joint.
Life sucks sometimes. And if you want to master a new technique, there is a natural requirement you put in the hard yards .
Stewie;
ps. Derek. I do like the look of that HNT Gordon Jointer Plane. It looks superb. What timber is the body made from. Also. Looking at how the key way of the 2 piece blade has been filled in (brazed ??) I am assuming its not the original blade. Did the plane originally have a wooden wedge.
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 11-30-2014 at 9:25 PM.
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