I'll second Roger's comments on the start-stop procedure as a matter of best practices, but more from a safety standpoint than anything else. Electronically, I don't think the lathe cares much whether you dial the pot to zero or flip the F/O/R switch to center position. But from personal experience, let me say that it can be quite exciting to flip the F/O/R switch to F or R after forgetting that the speed is already dialed to 3200 rpm.

On the braking resistor issue, a BR is nice to have, but not at all necessary, IMO. It allows you to adjust the parameters of the VHD to increase the rate of deceleration. So a heavy workpiece can be brought to a stop quicker, allowing faster work. But if the rate is tweaked much, the overrun inertia can spin the piece right off the spindle if you aren’t careful. Happened to me while I was experienting with different settings. Fortunately the tool rest stopped the blank just before launch. Jeff's comment on using grub screws (set screws) is well taken. But that's if you have them and they seat in the right place on your spindle (e.g., not on the threads). But not all good chucks have inserts that are pre-drilled and tapped for set screws, and those that do may have the set screws in the wrong place for a particular lathe. E.g., the set-screws in the 1-1/4” x 8 tpi inserts of the Oneway Stronghold and Talon chucks seat partially on the threads of the G0733 rather than in the dedicated groove of the spindle. Tightening them down would gall the threads, so brass-tipped set screws should probably be substituted. Last I knew, the inserts of the well-regarded Hurricane HTC125 and HTC100 chucks do not come pre-drilled for set screws at all, precisely because of the variation in spindles from lathe to lathe, this from Steve Fulgoni at The Woodturning Store.

In any event, the G0733 does not come with a braking resistor installed, and from a quick look at the manual and parts list, neither does the G0766. As Roger says, the Delta Electronics VFD-M drive has terminals for one (visible by removing the black metal dust cover), and they are only around $20 or $30 online. Installing one is simply a matter of attaching to the outside of the dust cover and hooking it up to terminals. However, to make it functional you must adjust some of the default parameter settings on the VFD. The VFD-M manual calls for a 300w 100 ohm BR for a 230v 2 HP motor (what I used on my G0733), and a 300w 70 ohm BR for a 230v 3 HP motor. In particular, Pr. 25 (over-voltage stall prevention) must be switched to "disabled", otherwise it will prevent the braking resistor from working. Changing the VFD-M parameters is a bit of a challenge because Grizzly locks out that capability on the VFD keypad, I’m assuming to prevent tampering. So to make the changes, you need to go into the drive through its computer interface using a special cable and adjust the settings from a laptop using the VFDSoft software (downloaded from the Delta Electronics website). This is not particularly hard, but probably not something everyone would want to bother with for the relatively small benefit from having a braking resistor. Also don’t know whether Grizzly might view this as a material modification that would jeopardize the Grizzly warranty if made within the first year.