Bandsaw for blank prepping

[David Sloan]

Hello Creekers - I have a Delta bandsaw in the shop that only has 6" of clearance, that I'd like to upgrade to something with greater capacity (think they call this the resaw capacity?). I'd heard good things about the Laguna 14 Twelve and was planning on getting that, but just thought I'd solicit opinions from folks first... looks to run around $1,100 for the saw plus another $150 for the 'mobility kit', bringing it to $1,250. In that price range is there anything else that would be as good or better, or something cheaper that would serve the purpose? Primarily I'll be using it for prepping turning blanks from logs, and 6" is just proving to be not enough clearance. I'd like something with more like 10-12".

Anyone who has experience with this bandsaw, or others you think would be good alternatives, your input is welcome, thanks!

I have had the 1412 for several months and love it. I did all the research and it seemed like it got the best reviews for a thousand dollar machine. Laguna has frequent 10% off sales so that helps. I converted it to 220. It is quiet, powerful with very little vibration. Fence is excellent. I did buy the wheelbase which is not essential but nice to have. I think its a great machine. I sold my 20yr old 500lb Grizzly which was powerful but vibrated like a steam engine and was impossible to tune. Great for roughing out blanks for turning but not for furniture making. Good luck!

[Pat Scott]

It sounds like you have the budget for the Laguna saw, so my vote is buy it instead of trying to upgrade your old saw. In the end I think you'd be happier. How many times have we tried to save money on something only to wish we had put that money towards buying new? It ends up costing us twice as much than what it could have.

I inherited my Dad's 14" Rockwell/Delta BS. I put a riser kit on it and all kinds of other upgrades (to the tune of $400 on upgrades). Here's the bottom line: I was trying to make the saw do something it wasn't designed to do. I know a lot of guys have put riser blocks on their saws and are happy with the end result. But the frame on those saws was not meant for resawing 12", nor tensioning a 105" blade. I never could get enough tension on the blades like I wanted, and I ended up cracking the aluminum block. More money for a replacement. Also the saw was so light weight that when I did try to cut 8"-12", the saw scooted across the floor. I haven't even got to the motor yet, which constantly stalled out and tripped the breaker. And then there's the table that no matter how tight I tightened the lock knobs, it would move under the weight of a big 12" half round log section and before you know it you're cutting at an angle. Wait, don't forget about dust collection which was a puny little 2-1/2" port. Believe me that is not enough for a 12" saw.

I also bought a Laguna LT14 BS when it first came out. I owned it for 8 years and it was a good saw. I had it when I inherited my Dad's saw, so I had two saws in my shop. My model Laguna only 8-1/2" resaw (later models had larger resaw), but the reason I sold it was to buy a ONE saw that would do everything that I wanted. The frame on the Laguna was solid, tensioning a blade was never a problem, the 2hp motor never bogged down or tripped breakers, the saw never scooted across the floor, the table never tilted on it's own, I love the Laguna guides, and dust collection was fantastic. If that Laguna had a 12" resaw I'd probably still own it.

I ended up selling my Dad's saw and got my $400 back, I sold the Laguna in 2 hours after posting it on Craigslist for $75 less than I paid for it 8 years earlier. What's that saying? Something like buying good tools only hurts once, but buying cheap tools continues to hurt. Personally I would buy Laguna over Jet also.

[Bob Bouis]

Before I got the minimax, I had a harbor freight 14" bandsaw. I'd outfitted it with a riser block (made for a grizzly, IIRC) and a larger motor (1.5 hp, but a real 1.5hp motor, one that would trip a 20-amp breaker if wired for 110v). The habor freight bandsaw has a peculiar four-speed setup, which had issues with belts slipping even with the stock motor. I assume I should have replaced the pulleys -- but what a waste. The guides never lined up with the riser block, the blade tension was poor, etc. I wouldn't encourage anyone to bother with trying to upgrade a crummy 14" saw.

One advantage to a larger saw is being able to mount larger blades. A 1" blade on the minimax can make straight cuts through a log standing on end no matter how thick it is (assuming you can get it on the table!). A thinner blade can't do it (at least not for long after it dulls) even on the big saw. That's something to consider. Cutting green wood is hard on bandsaws and bandsaw blades; you'd be happier if you could use cheaper blades with fewer teeth per inch, intended for sawmills. You need larger wheels to use them.

[John Grace]

If you have the funds, I would suggest the Laguna. They're frequently considered one of the premier saws available and their guide systems are excellent. As others have suggested, nobody ever cries over having bought a saw a size too big but a size too small is another story. Finally, whatever saw you decide upon, be sure to get the correct style of blade for what you'll be doing. A great blade can make up for some of the sins of a bad saw wheres as a great saw can be limited by a cheap or otherwise 'unworthy' blade.

[Reed Gray]

If I am cutting a log in half, I also cut a flat where the bottom of the bowl will be. Generally this is easier than turning it off, and it will help get it under the smaller bandsaw. Are you splitting like with a fro or axe and wedges? A bit more difficult to split off a flat bottom that way, not too bad with a chainsaw and marker pens for a line to follow.

robo hippy

[Jeff Grantham]

Well I did manage to find a guy who sells a riser block that will work with my bandsaw on eBay, for $220 (which seems like alot, but still alot less than a new saw). But I'm also now a little concerned that my 1/2 hp motor on my existing saw wouldn't be able to handle the larger capacity? I do have the fortunate situation of having come into a little extra spending $ for the shop, so I could buy a new one... question is is that the best use of my precious shop $$.

If I am cutting a log in half, I also cut a flat where the bottom of the bowl will be. Generally this is easier than turning it off, and it will help get it under the smaller bandsaw. Are you splitting like with a fro or axe and wedges? A bit more difficult to split off a flat bottom that way, not too bad with a chainsaw and marker pens for a line to follow.

robo hippy

Reed, No axe splitting for me! ;-) I'm splitting with a chainsaw, but often I won't cut the flat for the bottom, to try to save as much height to the blank as possible, and/or to keep as natural-edge bowls. This is primarily where I run into problems with the 6" max height.

[daryl moses]

I think you answered your own question "a little concerned that my 1/2 hp motor on my existing saw wouldn't be able to handle the larger capacity".
1/2 hp with a riser block is really pushing the limits IMO. Do what I and a lot of other wood-workers do. Keep the 14" saw for scroll cuts etc, and get a larger saw dedicated for resawing and cutting bowl blanks.
You'll spend much less time changing blades resetting guides etc. Makes life a lot easier.

[Reed Gray]

To cut 12 inches high, you need 1 hp at least, and that is with a good sharp blade.

robo hippy

[Pat Scott]

My Dad's Rockwell had been upgraded to a 3/4 hp motor from the original 1/2 hp. That 3/4 hp motor bogged down and stalled out all the time. It's tough cutting 12" of wet log. I had already sunk enough money into the saw and it still wasn't doing what I hoped it would, so I wasn't about to spend more on a new motor. Even with a new motor I'd still be left with a lightweight frame, lightweight saw, poor dust collection, etc. Save yourself frustration, I'd really encourage you to buy a saw that is built to resaw.

[John K Jordan]

To cut 12 inches high, you need 1 hp at least, and that is with a good sharp blade. robo hippy

I agree that is a good idea. However, for years I used the Delta 52-941 with a riser block. The motor plate doesn't say the HP but rates the motor at just over 8 amps at 110v.

I cut a lot of wood at or near 12" thick, both dry boards for resaw, reasonable dry blocks for turning, and at least a truckload of sopping wet green logs, various species, for turning blanks, both across and with the grain. I generally process log sections by cutting

I think the major factors for cutting thick wood: the blade type, sharpness, tension, and cutting speed. (Slower feed is not always better) I resharpened often.

JKJ