Type of Screws to Use for Installing Kitchen Cabinets

[Bob Deroeck]

What type of screw do you recommend using for installing kitchen wall and base cabinets to the studs in the wall. I'm looking for screw size (#8, #10. #12, etc). length, and head type. Manufacturer's name and model number could also be useful. The walls are 1/2" drywall with a plaster skim coat. The cabinets have a full back of 1/2" plywood, rabbeted into 3/4" plywood sides.

Also, what type of screw do you recommend using for attaching each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet. Again, recommendations for screw size (#8, #10. #12, etc). length, and head type would be appreciated.

And, where do you recommend buying these screws via the internet?

Thanks.

Bob

[roger wiegand]

I like these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Faste...3079/203525221

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They come in a range of lengths.

[George Bokros]

Roger shows the correct screw for attaching the cabinets to the wall. As for attaching two cabinets together I use trim head screws also available at a big box store.

[John K Jordan]

For fastening each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet i use long drywall screws. To align the fronts perfectly I remove the doors, mount the cabinets loosely to the wall, clamp the face frames together, drill and countersink for the screws, install the screws, then tighten the cabinets against the wall. I have no idea if there is a better way but this works for me.

EDIT: forgot to mention I drill through the face frames first deep enough for the screw using a bit sized for the screw threads, then again with a larger bit for thread clearance just deep enough to go through the first frame, then countersink. Might be able to get by without the clearance hole if the frames are clamped tightly but hey...

[Lee Schierer]

For fastening each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet i use long drywall screws. To align the fronts perfectly I remove the doors, mount the cabinets loosely to the wall, clamp the face frames together, drill and countersink for the screws, install the screws, then tighten the cabinets against the wall. I have no idea if there is a better way but this works for me.

EDIT: forgot to mention I drill through the face frames first deep enough for the screw using a bit sized for the screw threads, then again with a larger bit for thread clearance just deep enough to go through the first frame, then countersink. Might be able to get by without the clearance hole if the frames are clamped tightly but hey...

Your procedure is correct, but your screws are wrong. Drywall screws are too brittle for structural use. Use the GRK screws identified by others. Kraftmaid cabinets come with screws for hanging and joining that are nearly identical tot he GRK screws.

[Sam Murdoch]

+1 to those above, especially for attaching through to the walls and then for attaching the cabs to each other - THROUGH the FACE FRAME - and also for attaching trim sometimes, I use http://www.grkfasteners.com/products...screw/fin-trim

Don't use the "composites" as they have extra threads near the head which can add some difficulty especially if you need to withdraw the screw.

For attaching cabs to each other through the side walls I simply use GRK wood screws with the normal bugle head. These are all TORX drive and I prefer these to all other screw drive systems these days. Nearly all my screw use has gone to TORX. There are GRK alternatives that are less expensive but the brand varies according to your local stores so I can't specify. All available in nearly every lumber yard, box store, Amazon, etc.

The size is dependent on your materials. I usually use 3" #9 screws for attaching uppers to walls and then a range of #8s for other work.

[Matt Day]

John, I think you have the right method but not the right screws.

I use drywall screws occasionally for jigs and stuff but wouldn't let them touch hardwood. Anybody else agree?

[Stan Calow]

I use drywall screws occasionally for jigs and stuff but wouldn't let them touch hardwood. Anybody else agree?

Matt, yes. I am just a homeowner not a pro, but I have had many drywall screws snap off when used for anything other than drywall. I learned later that with their thin shafts, they're not designed for shear strength.

[John K Jordan]

Matt, yes. I am just a homeowner not a pro, but I have had many drywall screws snap off when used for anything other than drywall. I learned later that with their thin shafts, they're not designed for shear strength.

Perhaps I have better luck with drywall screws because I install most of the way with power then tighten by hand, lubricated with wax. Never had one snap. (I always tighten screws that way except for decks and building construction.) Of course, I'm not a professional installer, just a install my own and for friends. I put in a kitchen here about 13 years ago with all the cabinets made from hickory. I probably WOULD have snapped screws if power driven.

I paid someone to build the hickory cabinets to my specs but fired them when I saw how they connected the first two cabinets, ripped out what they did and did the installation myself.

JKJ

[Joe Jensen]

I strongly recommend the GRK screws in the top post. Few screws are designed for shear loads, those are. The are also torx head so to they don't strip.

[Erik Christensen]

check out the fastcap system - they are the bomb for cabinets. I hung a large corner upper with these things and before I hung the door or installed the shelves I took a picture of my wife sitting in the cabinet along with our 2 20# terriers & when I hung the doors I would climb in the cabinet & I weigh 200#. They have a huge flat head, come in #10 sizes and you can buy a tool from them that drills the pilot hole and a flat precise depth counter sink so that when you seat the screw with an impact driver you cover the screw head with a peel & stick cap that they sell with various wood species you can finish to match. You can't really see them after covered and they are the strongest screw system for hanging stuff on walls I have seen.

[Ben Rivel]

No issues using #8 in the GRK screws? I would think #10 screws would be more desirable for hanging cabinets.

[Charles P. Wright]

I had good results in my kitchen with the FastCap powerhead screws. The longer length for attaching to the studs, the 1.25" length for connecting adjacent cabinets.

Charles

[roger wiegand]

FWIW, I love using a french cleat to hang the uppers. I cut 3/8" BB plywood strips from scrap with a 45 deg edge and screw one to the wall and one to the cabinet (plus a spacer at the bottom of the cabinet to keep them level. It makes one-person cabinet installation a breeze as well as allowing you to put everything up in place to see what you've forgotten about before you start screwing things in place. If you're like me and only do this once every few years you will mis-position or forget a trim strip somewhere! (or DW will decide she'd rather have the cabinets in a different order once she sees them in place.)

Oh-- and install the uppers first, so you don't have to work reaching out over the lowers.

[Curt Harms]

FWIW, I love using a french cleat to hang the uppers. I cut 3/8" BB plywood strips from scrap with a 45 deg edge and screw one to the wall and one to the cabinet (plus a spacer at the bottom of the cabinet to keep them level. It makes one-person cabinet installation a breeze as well as allowing you to put everything up in place to see what you've forgotten about before you start screwing things in place. If you're like me and only do this once every few years you will mis-position or forget a trim strip somewhere! (or DW will decide she'd rather have the cabinets in a different order once she sees them in place.)

Oh-- and install the uppers first, so you don't have to work reaching out over the lowers.

I built some hanging cabinets for books so I knew they'd be supporting a load. French cleats made from 3/4" ply and screwed to the wall with 1/4" lag bolts. They're not going anywhere.