has anyone around here made one of these clocks?
i've never seen any plans, but i'm thinking bent laminations or cut it from one whole chunk of wood.
thanx
brad
has anyone around here made one of these clocks?
i've never seen any plans, but i'm thinking bent laminations or cut it from one whole chunk of wood.
thanx
brad
The Country Toad Workshop Rogersville, Al
Look closely at the pictures you provided. There's no end grain showing. The front (and back) are face grain, and so is the entire curvature of the top.
So, in order to achieve that, you'll have to resort to veneering. You could cut the base from one thick piece of stock, then veneer the top curve, or you could build a carcase out of some stable plywood or (if you want it heavy!) out of glued up mdf, then veneer the whole thing.
I think the originals were one large block of wood, with the top veneered, but I must admit to never having examined one closely (even though there was one on the mantle when I was growing up...
I have two clocks similiar to your photos, both made in the early part of the 20th century. One is veneered, and the other one is made of segments of wood glued together.Originally Posted by Brad Hammond
The segmented one was stained so dark that it was almost black. I stripped it many years ago and now you can see the segments that make up the top.
Howard
Brad,Originally Posted by Brad Hammond
It is such a simple design - plans are not required. Size of the overall clock and curvature of the top is dependent on the size of the clock face/bezel being used. I have made a number of these in the past. As a matter of fact I have a walnut block glued up in the shop right now to make another one.
I simply laminate enough stock to make a solid blank to cut the profile from. Then using a 3" dia forstner bit - drill flat bottom hole from the rear to within approx 3/8" of the front for mounting the mechanism. No big deal !!
Here is a pic of one of my previous pieces:
Last edited by Ken Salisbury; 07-06-2003 at 11:38 AM.
"If you believe in yourself and have dedication and pride - and never quit, you'll be a winner. The price of victory is high - but so are the rewards" - - Coach Paul "Bear" BryantKen Salisbury Passed away on May 1st, 2008 and will forever be in our hearts.
ken..........nothing like that "ButtCAD" bill mentioned in another post is there...........lol
thanx again all.
brad
The Country Toad Workshop Rogersville, Al
I went out to the shop after my first post and took several shots of the walnut block I had prepared last weekend so it would give you a better idea of how I make tambour clocks. Pictures make a lot better sense than words when trying to explain something
This block is made from 3 pieces of walnut and is 12 ½" long, 6" wide and 2" thick.
Pic #1 shows front of the blank.
Pics #2 & 3 shows back of the blank (note: I purposelly used a piece in the middle with some sap wood showing to give the clock some character when the profile is cut. This will show up on the top edge of the profile).
Pic #4 shows the hinged bezel/face I intend to use.
Click Thumbnails for fullsize pics
<A href="http://www.kenswoodcentral.com/pics/tambour02.jpg"> <A href="http://www.kenswoodcentral.com/pics/tambour03.jpg"> <A href="http://www.kenswoodcentral.com/pics/tambour04.jpg">
I will post pictures of the finished clock when and if I get it completed (have a very large segmented bowl that has to be done first)
Last edited by Ken Salisbury; 07-06-2003 at 2:29 PM.
"If you believe in yourself and have dedication and pride - and never quit, you'll be a winner. The price of victory is high - but so are the rewards" - - Coach Paul "Bear" BryantKen Salisbury Passed away on May 1st, 2008 and will forever be in our hearts.
that's the exact info i'm looking for! one last thing if i may, did you get the face and movements from klockit or local?
i keep trying to get to bham to stock up on some stuff, but i cant seem to get down there.
thanx ken
brad
The Country Toad Workshop Rogersville, Al
I get most of my clock parts from Klockit.Originally Posted by Brad Hammond