If I may ask this basic lathe question please....

[David Pettibone]

I recently got a delta midi-lathe and I want to mount it on the wall. Basically, a 16" by 50" (approximate) platform mounted to the wall. The wall is 2" x 6" with 7/16" OSB. I will be hitting the studs for sure and I will have no reason to remove the unit from the wall, but could easily if I had to. Is it a bad idea to mount a lathe to a workstation that is attached to a beefy wall (vibration, etc...)? But the main question is really this. I am curious as to the normal height of mounting a lathe. I am 6'1" and am wondering what the normal height should be at what point on my body or the tool. In other words, what do I reference it off of. I'd rather just do this once and have it mounted and done.

Thanks a lot!!!!!

Gratefully, David

[tod evans]

david, i like the centers to be at the height of my bent elbow. .02 tod

[Andy Hoyt]

David - I can't speak to the question of spindle height because it seems to be a highly subjective one. Center turners tend to like them low, while faceplate turners like them higher. I experimented high and low and ended up a high medium. This is all based on the starting point being the distance from the floor to your elbow when your upper arm is plumb and your forearm is level. Using that formula, I should be at 42", but actually have it set at 46" or so.

But I can speak to the distance from the spindle to the wall. For center work, it's essentially meaningless. But for bowl turning you'll want to maximize the distance as much as possible. Take your longest bowl gouge and the largest bowl your midi will permit and work on the inside of the bowl out near the rim. Given your 16" platform my guess is that many times the tail end of the gouge will be smashing into the wall preventing you from making the cut you want/need.

Suggest you do a mock up of this and re-design the platform.

[David Pettibone]

I am going out to the shop right now and try the elbow suggestion and see where I should be. As far as the 16" platform goes, I may not have described this properly. If I am correct in thinking this way, I will be working from one side of the lathe when I do a small bowl. I will have one open side to work off of and the other side of the lathe will be facing the wall, about 10 inches away, the full length of the lathe (about 50"). I may not have said it correctly in my post Andy. When I get this baby mounted, I will snap a photo and try to get my wife to help me load it (still computer challenged, but getting there!). Thank you both for your suggestions!!!

Gratefully, David

[John Hart]

David...Mine is up against the wall. I do a variety of different turnings. When I do a bowl or hollowform, I rotate the Headstock so I have more tool room. This is per Andy Hoyt's advice. Before he suggested that, I was cramped and forced to use short tools. The world has opened up since then. So...if you have that option...

Also...I had the lathe cabinet screwed to the wall pretty well. On a big lopsided piece one day...I found that it wasn't a good idea. The house is still standing though.

[David Pettibone]

I am going back to highschool days and remember turning a bowl from just one side of the school's stationary lathe. There is a picture in the similar threads (when you click on my thread, it is below it with about 4 other similare threads) that I just found. It is by Mark Kauder(?) and down in the thread it shows a picture of a Jet midi lathe on a cabinet. Mine would be just like that but a permanent fixture on a wall versus setting on a cabinet. I know I am missing something here, bigtime.

If I mounted a blank of wood to the headstock and started turning a bowl, what would my tool be hitting on? I would have the tailstock removed. I am really sorry for the question guys and can't figure out why I can't get what your saying. My headstock won't turn, it's just a midi lathe, but does right and left handed have something to do with it? Again, sorry for the redundant questions.

Gratefully, David

p.s. Major brain cramp coming on!!

[Andy Hoyt]

David - Acknowledge that you'll only have standing/working access from one side of lathe.

Does your lathe run in reverse? Do your lathe and chuck allow for a locking mechanism (such as a set screw) to prevent the chucks from spinning off the spindle when running in reverse?

If not, then you can only turn in forward rotation. And this means that quite often - when doing a bowl - you'll be holding your gouge on the far side of the centerline with the cutting edge on the near side.

Again, suggest you mock it up before you build. Or better yet - set everything up temporarily on workbench with plenty of space all around and do up a bowl. I think then you have an epiphany, or as Homer would say, "Doh!"

[Dennis Peacock]

David,

I don't think I'd mount it to a wall, unless it was steel. I have a lathe that weighs (without balast) 710 pounds. With a new bowl blank on the lathe and you start it up, you can generate very easily enough vribration force to make a 710 pound lathe "dance" on the floor. This would be enough force to rip your bolts (eventually) right out of the wall. So I wouldn't recommened it. I also have a Jet 1236 lathe that I used to "chase" around the shop until I got my pieces round enough to steady the lathe.

Spindle height? Standup straight very close to your lathe. Bend you arm is if you are going to shake someone's hand. The bend in your elbow is the starting point for lathe height. Mine's actually a little higher than my bent elbow, but I like it there. So it's gonna take a bit to get the lathe height where you like it best.

[Gary DeWitt]

Height:
as others have said, somewhat objective. I have mine at elbow height. Seems a bit low for hollowing and bowls.
Richard Raffan likes his at elbow plus two inches.

Depth of "shelf":
That's gonna have to be one secure shelf. I have your same lathe, sitting on a home built stand. 2x12 and 2x6 construction lumber. 3/4 ply on 3 sides. Heavy cabinet full of tools and wood sitting in it. See picc. With only 9.5" swing, you're not going to stress the stand TOO much, unless you do some radical off-center turning or start your lathe way too fast on an out of balance blank. Nevertheless, I would secure that stand with some 1/2" lag bolts into the 2x6s, the more the better.

The gang here is not getting thru with why you need space BEHIND your lathe when turning bowls. I suggest you watch a video, either online, purchased or rented or borrowed from a woodturning club of someone turning a bowl before you design your stand/shelf. That is, if you are intending to ever turn a bowl. Good luck.

[Gary DeWitt]

OK, pics didn't follow post, as I used them in a previous thread, here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26808
You'll have to look there.

[David Pettibone]

Thank you Andy, Dennis, and Gary. I really appreciate the time you've taken to get my "lack of turning since highschool brain to wake up". Sorry, Andy, I hope I didn't frustrate you. Your explanation was fine, I just couldn't phathom it without doing as you said and actually standing around the lathe. Dennis, your right, I am building a stand and that's all there is to it. Gary, thank you and your pictures and set-up really opened my eyes! New ideas and better ways to do things save a lot of time in the future. John was right, I'd have problems with the lathe tools for sure.

Thank you fine gentlemen, much appreciated here in cold, bloody cold Michigan.

Gratefully, David

[Harry Pye]

Let me try this. Stand at the lathe with the tool rest at right angles to the lathe bed. This is the way you would be set to hollow the inside of the bowl. Put your longest bowl gouge on the tool rest in line with the center. Roll the tool so the flute is facing the wall.

Now looking down on the tip of the tool, push the handle towards the wall until the bevel of the tool lines up with the bed of the lathe. Did the handle of the tool bump the wall before it got into position? If it did, you are too close to the wall. When you start cutting the inside of the bowl, the tool will follow the bevel so you need a lot of room to swing the tool to your right.

Does this make any sense?

[Andy Hoyt]

David - No frustration here. But back when I started out I was not only frustrated, but totally clueless and befuddled by it all. And sure didn't have anything like SMC to help me learn. Just glad now to be able to pay it forward.

But listen to Professor Harry Pye - he put my mumblings into something that even I understood. Thanks Harrry.

Going back into the dunce corner now.

[David Pettibone]

Yep, it makes perfect sense Harry and THANKS furthering the explanation. Andy, if your going back to the dunce corner, I must LIVE there and never get out!!! I am sure you have forgotten more than I will ever know, but hey, I'm giving this lathe thing a shot. I got the lathe for $90 clearanced (floor model with the box) from Lowes last summer (2004). When I said I just got the lathe, I meant it's just about to be gotten, because it's been sitting and collecting dust until now. But it's brand new.

Gratefully, David

p.s. Thanks again for your patience.

[Gary DeWitt]

Nice driveby gloat, David. Mine cost $300, but it was an impulse purchase.
'Bout time you got around to setting that thing up! You're going to have fun with it.
Now you start spending REAL money on tools, wood, chucks, etc. etc.
Reminds me of one definition of "boat" - A hole in the water you pour money into.