Looking for ideas on how to mount this without the hardware showing

[Brian Runau]

I want to build and mount this, but p[refer not to use a french cleat. Looking for suggestion on how to wall mount so you won't see the fasteners. Thanks for any help.
BrianCoat hook.jpg

[Hunter Benson]

Use a keyhole slot or keyhole hardware.

[Jamie Buxton]

What is it -- a coat rack? I ask because if it is a coat rack, somebody will be yanking pretty hard on those vertical parts. That, in turn, means that you must tie it quit strongly to the wall. But if it has some other function, perhaps the mounting scheme can be lighter weight.

[Brian Runau]

What is it -- a coat rack? I ask because if it is a coat rack, somebody will be yanking pretty hard on those vertical parts. That, in turn, means that you must tie it quit strongly to the wall. But if it has some other function, perhaps the mounting scheme can be lighter weight.

Goes in the laundry room, can double as a drying rack and coat rack. thanks. brian

[Brian Runau]

Use a keyhole slot or keyhole hardware.

So put this on the back of the rack and a fastener in the wall, correct?

Thanks Brian

https://www.rockler.com/keyhole-fitt...BoC8IgQAvD_BwE

[Thomas McCurnin]

Keyhole fastener, but ....

Make a template out of thin plywood or cardboard to drill the holes for the screws and plastic inserts that go into the drywall.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

You could use screws in countersunk holes and plug the holes with matching plugs insuring that the holes align with the studs in the wall.

[Roger Feeley]

Are the individual hooks glued on? When I do coat racks, I try to work out the spacing so the hooks cover the mounting screws.

[Doug Garson]

Are the individual hooks glued on? When I do coat racks, I try to work out the spacing so the hooks cover the mounting screws.

I was going to suggest that but how do you attach the hooks without visible fasteners?

[Hunter Benson]

Keyhole fastener, but ....

Make a template out of thin plywood or cardboard to drill the holes for the screws and plastic inserts that go into the drywall.

I have also had success using dowel pins in the keyhole slots to get the mounting locations right.

[Jamie Buxton]

If it is a coat rack, I’d say that the keyhole approach is too flimsy and sloppy. I’d bite the bullet, and drive screws through the front into studs. That’d be strong enough. Counterbore the holes, and drive domed plugs into them after you screw the rack to the wall. Use plugs of the same species as the test of the rack.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I was going to suggest that but how do you attach the hooks without visible fasteners?

I'd makes the hooks so they attach with dovetails & drive a screw into the dovetail. You'd probably only catch one stud - but - hollow wall anchors in the dovetail slot of each hanger should be plenty enough to hold it.
For a little extra hold, you could always use some 90# rated double faced tape.

[Doug Garson]

I'd makes the hooks so they attach with dovetails & drive a screw into the dovetail. You'd probably only catch one stud - but - hollow wall anchors in the dovetail slot of each hanger should be plenty enough to hold it.
For a little extra hold, you could always use some 90# rated double faced tape.

Like the dovetail idea, not sure I can picture how you would nail it after mounting on the wall but you could just glue it in. However one disadvantage is how do you later remove the coat hanger without destroying it if you need to relocate it or just temporarily remove it to paint or wallpaper the wall? I would use the screw with a contrasting plug as part of the design. That would be the most secure and if the plug is friction fit it can be pried out out if needed.

[Jim Becker]

Metal keyhole inserts on the back that engage appropriately sized screws into the wall studs will do the job just fine. I would not cut the keyholes directly in the wood for this application. The metal inserts provide four screw points in the corners and that can be augmented with epoxy for a very strong hanging solution.

One other option is a full length sliding dovetail. It can provide similar strength to a French cleat but is largely invisible other than the tell-tail dovetail provide at one or both ends. There would need to be the lateral space to at least one side to be able to slide the unit onto the dovetail.

[Tom Bender]

If that bar is .. say .. 3/4 x 3 it will need to be well fastened to every stud. Skip one and it's going to twist. Put screws thru it into the studs. You might have to angle one or two if the arms get in the way.

Now you have screws to hide. This is an opportunity to put a little interest into your design. Install a covering bar say .. 1 x 3/8 .. over the screws in pieces between the arms. Cut the end ones an inch short of the ends.

Those arms are going to poke bumps into whatever is hung on them, especially wet clothes. You should have a much rounder top.