I gang them up on the jointer, then very very lightly spring joint them.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
I've never tried spring joints on a jointer. Maybe I'll try that today, it'll likely be the first time I've moved my height adjustment in years. Thanks!
~mike
happy in my mud hut
Sorry I meant to add that I do the spring joint by hand.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
why would one spring joint 3/32" stock? My jointer is dialed in, no need to ever spring joint a board, certainly not veneer. How would you put enough clamp pressure on to close a spring joint?
I have been using a method I found online.. I use a sort of straight edge / shooting block set up and put two sheets together at time, set my hand plane blade at an angle and joint two pieces at a time along the edge they share.
This should help by creating some overlap btwn the two pieces when you go to tape them together. OTH, I haven't spent too much time joining two sheets without a slight bevel because I have had good results doing it this way and it doesn't take any longer if I only do two sheets at a time. If I didn't want the bevel, I would do it the same way, but without the hand plane blade angled. Without the bevel, you could add more than two sheets to the stack. I'm sure I'll get around to trying it this way once I get involved in larger veneer projects.
That's pretty thick veneer, I can't wait to get a bandsaw and feeder capable of nice shop sawn.
Cheers,
I use the slider or a sled on the cabinet saw. I add a pressure bar to hold the veneer flat during the cut. Jointing usually doesn't work well for me, except on the shortest edges.