Infinity Lock Miter Master Jig

[Alan Schaffter]

test, to see if I can still post.

Well I guess I can. Thanks Ernie.

I used to spend a lot of time here but haven't been around in quite awhile. Yes, I am the inventor of the Lock Miter Master. My name is on the patent which is now owned by Infinity. I still get a small royalty.

As to the capabilities of the LMM- it can be used without special procedures with almost every brand of lock miter router bit except ones that have cutter geometry similar to many shapers. The LMM is designed to work with bits whose cutting edge is a radius of the cutting circle. Some router bits, especially those with replaceable carbide inserts, and many shaper cutters, have cutting edges that are chords of the cutting circle. While the LMM can be used with these, the procedures are more complex. Worth it??? As mentioned, this is discussed on pp. 14 of the instructions.

There is a heavily illustrated set of online (and downloadable) instructions on the Infinity website at the link posted above by Patrick. I believe Infinity has a video on their website as well and there are tons on Youtube- those vary in quality and understanding of the principle of lock miter bits and how the LMM works. The instructions provided with many (most?) lock miter bits are generally wrong and often devolve into frustrating trial and error. With just a little be of care you can set a lock miter bit with the LMM and achieve a perfect fit on the first try!!

One statement I hear a lot is that a lock miter bit can not be used to join stock with different thicknesses- that is totally incorrect. Also, I don't believe any of the videos discuss the extra reference marks on the LMM. I put them there to be used to create single and dual offset lock miters. (discussed in the instructions). There are times when such joints may be desirable.

While not as fancy or complex as a CNC or Pantorouter, my other invention, the INCRA I-BOX jig for making box joints does a fantastic job making box joints, dentil molding, etc. of almost any finger width and it can be used on both a router table with a straight or spiral bit or table saw with a dado blade. Many prefer the table saw because of speed and reduced chance of chip out possible with a router especially in ply.

[Robert Hayward]

Alan,
Have not used the LMM but have used the I-Box jig a bunch. Thank you for developing the I-Box. The I-Box has allowed me, an average woodworker, to consistently make box joints with expert level precision.

[Paul Haus]

Alan mentioned there are some situations his setup guide won't work, I'm one of those situations and I hope everyone will take this as adding onto the info provided. I use a shaper and I always had a lot of frustration trying to get everything right and I've never found any setup guides for a shaper. For those in similar situations, there are ways to make it easier. I bought one of those semi-transparent kitchen cutting boards that was about 3/8" thick. After I 'finally' got everything right for my cut, I took a piece of the cutting board about 2" tall and clamped it to the miter gauge and put it against the fence and ran it through the cutter. Mark it up with the dimensions of the wood being used and put it on the hook with the other setup patterns. You can even double up and put one setup on each end of the plastic piece you are using to record the settings on.
You can use it to make setup patterns for pretty much any cutter and they do save hair pulling and a lot of wasted wood (neither of which I have enough of).

[Alan Lightstone]

He also built an impressive blast gate system with autogates more than a decade ago. Alan's a smart, inventive guy. With a great first name too.

I use his iBox (and really like it) and to a lesser extent the Lock Miter Master.

[Dave Sabo]

Alan mentioned there are some situations his setup guide won't work, I'm one of those situations and I hope everyone will take this as adding onto the info provided. I use a shaper and I always had a lot of frustration trying to get everything right and I've never found any setup guides for a shaper. For those in similar situations, there are ways to make it easier. I bought one of those semi-transparent kitchen cutting boards that was about 3/8" thick. After I 'finally' got everything right for my cut, I took a piece of the cutting board about 2" tall and clamped it to the miter gauge and put it against the fence and ran it through the cutter. Mark it up with the dimensions of the wood being used and put it on the hook with the other setup patterns. You can even double up and put one setup on each end of the plastic piece you are using to record the settings on.
You can use it to make setup patterns for pretty much any cutter and they do save hair pulling and a lot of wasted wood (neither of which I have enough of).

If you're doing lots of lock miter work , ditch the shaper and get one of these....................then you won't need no stinkin jig or setup blocks. Your waste will shrink to almost nothing too.


https://www.easylockmiter.com/

[Paul Haus]

If you're doing lots of lock miter work , ditch the shaper and get one of these....................then you won't need no stinkin jig or setup blocks. Your waste will shrink to almost nothing too.
https://www.easylockmiter.com/

Unless Santa Claus or the Tooth Ferry happened to bring one by, not going to happen. Now that I've retired, most of my woodworking is either for myself or friends. I have pretty much all the tools and tooling I'll be needing for the time being.
PS - that machine looks interesting though it would be hard to justify only doing miter lock joints once or twice a year currently.

[Warren Lake]

or just do what the old guys did and cut a slot both with your table saw and run a spline.

[Dave Sabo]

PS - that machine looks interesting though it would be hard to justify only doing miter lock joints once or twice a year currently.

yup............which is why i lead with :

If you're doing lots of lock miter work , ditch the shaper and get one of these..