epoxy fill, how to bring it down, sand or plane

[Andrew Pitonyak]

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I fixed some splits and knots using epoxy.

The epoxy sits proud of the wood (walnut) and I want to make it flush.

I brought it to size using my powered thickness planer. I have never run wood with epoxy through a thickness planer. I was thinking about just running this through to bring things flush. Is this likely to work.

[andy bessette]

Belt sander or sanding block.

[Ron Citerone]

I usually sand wit ROS or sand paper on a rubber sanding block. Can't say I ever ran it through a planer so I can't comment on that.

[Justin Kwong]

Using a card scraper has worked great for me in the past. Slow but steady.

[Chuck Saunders]

Card scraper works exceptionally well.
Chuck

[Eugene Dixon]

Card scraper is where I start on bowls. Depending on the form, I may use a stationary belt sander followed by ROS.

[Stan Calow]

I don't think many people have them, but a chisel plane or bull-nose plane works for this.

[Jim Becker]

Along the line of what Stan mentioned, a chisel plane or wide chisel that can get flat on the surface so you can do "slicing" motions to shave off the epoxy (or even shave off wood inlays) and then sanding as normal.

[George Yetka]

Heat gun and card scraper to get flush. I have in some lighter colored woods had dark pigments dye the wood and had to sand a little to get past it.

[Derek Cohen]

If the epoxy is dry and hard, it will chip out if you run a scraper over it. In this case, use a sanding block with coarse grit, followed by a medium grip. Once flush, you can sand further, scrape or hand plane.

If still slightly soft, use the edge of a chisel to slice away the waste. Be careful, if not firm enough, you can lift chunks of the epoxy from the hole.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Daniel O'Neill]

Heat gun and card scraper to get flush. I have in some lighter colored woods had dark pigments dye the wood and had to sand a little to get past it.

This is it! The heat will soften it up quite a bit. Just don't overdo it.

[Bob Falk]

I have made dozens of charcuterie boards inlaid with epoxy.I typically run through my drum sander. Light passes with 60/80 grit and then finish with my RO up to 320. Only problem I have had is if the epoxy was not totally cured, as many have mentioned. I now wait several days before sanding and always use spray shellac on the wood before applying epoxy to prevent bleed.
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[Bradley Gray]

If you catch it before the epoxy is completely hard, a sharp chisel works well.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Epoxy is completely hard at this point so I will go straight to the coarse grit sandpaper.

A machine would be faster, but do not want to risk ripping it out or chipping it.

[andy bessette]

If you used WEST epoxy it won't come out.