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Thread: Plywood Cart Design

  1. #1

    Plywood Cart Design

    I'm building this lumber rack and plywood cart design from Shopnotes #17.

    (pic attached)

    However, I'd like to make one design modification. The swing out card as pictured is aligned horizontally. For space issues along this wall, I'd like the cart to swing out vertically (i've got sufficient space for the lumber rack above).

    Any comments on how to make a vertically-oriented plywood cart stable enough (minimize sway).

    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Oakdale, CT
    Posts
    50
    I built this rack a few years back and it's really great. If I understand you, you want the front triangular sheet to flip down for access to the sheets in the lower unit? This would be a bit dangerous if the unit was full and the boards came forward on their own. I have several cut-offs and sheet goods in this location all of the time and it weighs in excess of 200 Lbs. I changed the lower unit to a right side hinge setup to accomidate my shop and it works great. I hope I have understood what you are asking for.
    Bob Nazro
    A Connecticut Yankee
    I've measured this three times and each time I cut it, it's still to short...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    493
    I did the exact same thing. You want to buy VERY GOOD casters. I attached a 2x8 plate to the wall and then attached the hinges to it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Overland Park, KS
    Posts
    359
    Oops, this is different than the big lumber Cart I built. If you build the big lumber cart.

    I dont like my big lumber cart. Its too heavy (built out of Melamine).

    I will tell you now that if you build it, do not use those little triangles in the plans to put caster on. Run a board the across the bottom in their place. Also, use at least 6 inch casters. I would recommend even bigger if possible. I used 6 casters total. Also, I would recomend putting a board across one end (an end cap) of the cart and that structurally holds everything together. What I have run into is that when I try to pull the cart away from the wall, the whole thing want to collapse forward like a domino.

    I used to have 4 inch, have upgraded to 5 inch and now 6 inch. Brakes aren't really necessary, the issue is not to stop the cart from moving, but to get it to move. Loaded down with wood, mine barely moves, and is very fragile. Some day when I get a chance, I plan to disasseble my cart and maybe build the lumber rack instead.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...d+storage+cart
    Last edited by Jack Diemer; 01-31-2006 at 2:36 PM.
    If at 1st you don't succeed, go back to the lumberyard and get some more wood.

  5. #5

    oops. . .let me clarify

    Jack,

    I considered that design for a long time -but in the end, I just didn't have the room for it.

    After re-reading my original post, I realize I didn't explain my objective very well.

    I still intend to have the plywood swing out from the wall as pictured, but instead of having the cart oriented so that it is 4 ft high and 8 ft long, I want to have a cart that swings out that is 8 ft high and 4 ft long.

    In my mind, I can picture this design being considerably top heavy - so I think the cart itself may need some rigidity to it. One thought is to run full sheets of plywood for the sides (rather than the triangles pictured). Unfortunately, this just adds to the weight of the whole thing).

    Suggestions?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Oakdale, CT
    Posts
    50
    Now I see what you are after. I would recommend building a box with full sheets. It will be heavy, but MDF comes longer and wider than 4X8. Us it for the front and back, Use 2x8 lumber for the top, bottom and rear sides. I don't know your ceiling height but use the best heavy duty casters, 4" with bearings and 3 to 4 hinges to attach the rear to the wall. This should open and close well. Cut out an arc in the front sheet of MDF to enable you to grip the sheets. You can make the box bigger by using 2x10 lumber in place of the 2x8's, but I think that would get really heavy.
    Bob Nazro
    A Connecticut Yankee
    I've measured this three times and each time I cut it, it's still to short...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Ellington, CT
    Posts
    127
    If you want to save some weight, a vertical full sheet of plywood will be no stronger than the one in this picture. Maybe you could also brace the bottom out toward the room and toward the wall a little to get some distance between the castors. What I mean is that the castor could fit under the lumber rack along the wall when closed. Hope this makes sense
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Nathan Hoffman; 02-01-2006 at 10:07 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Placitas, NM in the foothills of the Sandia Mountain.
    Posts
    527

    Vertical design

    Can't remember where, but I saw a vertical swinging plywood storage made out of metal fencing material. Flanges bolted to the floor and ceiling joist hold galvanized pipe. Gate connectors are fitted on the vertical pipe to allow for movement. I believe a wooden base was added to sit the plywood on, with wooden sides. It looked sturdy....
    Send us a pic of how it comes out!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Midland, Michigan
    Posts
    453
    Jack, if you were to use one or two "steel or hard tired" fixed casters I think you would have little difficulty getting it rolling. A pull rope attached low on the unit (near the casters) will also help. I'm sure I don't need to tell you which way to orient the wheels but if you could watch the swivel casters as you start moving your rack you will see they have to rotate 180 degrees and yes it is tough to move when they are 90 to the direction of travel.
    Work safe, have fun, enjoy the sport.
    Remember that a guy never has to come down out of the clouds if he keeps filling the valleys with peaks. Steve

  10. #10
    Yes. . .think I'm going to build a box with full sheets. . .but as you point out, the box should be a few inches taller than 8' so that sheets can be easily placed into and pulled from it. I don't think MDF - even with its extra inch, is going to be sufficient.

    What if I wanted to make the box 90" tall - could I cut the plywood sheet in half - allowing a 4" gap to run across the middle?

    (hope this makes sense).

    Art

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