Grease

[Dan Case LR]

Maybe I'm showing my age, but I remember when grease was grease. You'd walk into an auto parts store and tell them you need a small tub of grease, and they'd grab one from the stock shelves and that was the end of the discussion. Today, there are more types of grease on the shelf than I can count, along with strict warnings not to mix different types of grease lest a thermonuclear reaction result.

I'm rebuilding a 20+ year old Delta 17-965 drill press loaded with lots of dirty, solidified grease. I know I need to clean it out thoroughly no matter what I regrease with. The question is what should I regrease it with? I'm using double-sealed Nachi (Japan) bearings (2RS) that are pre-lubricated, so that's not a problem.

The big question is: What kind of grease should I use on the quill and other non-bearing surfaces?

Thanks!

D.

[Tom Bender]

Still working thru my old tub of every flavor grease, must be 40 years old.

Since my shop has wood dust, grease might not be right for low load/speed surfaces. My choice would be candle wax though it's a little harder to apply.

That said I do use motor oil on the posts of my planer. No place there for gunk to cause trouble and decent lube is needed.

[George Yetka]

Typically when I go for grease it is marine grease. But with my reloading presses the rule is to use motor oil on the ram. I would assume that applies to quills as well. I believe it absorbs into the post instead of staying on the surface like grease.

[Michael Burnside]

You're not wrong, there are more options now than 20+ years ago. With the introduction of many different types of materials used in manufacturing, different lubrication requirements have come about. In addition some of these materials will actually break down if you use the wrong grease. Typically these materials are composites, rubbers, plastics, etc. In addition, manufacturing processes have allowed for much tighter tolerances. These tight tolerances can mean higher pressure/heat along surfaces, requiring grease that can withstand both. And finally there are synthetic blends.

For general purpose grease I use Mobilux EP 1, particularly on bearing blocks (CNCs, etc.) and tight fittings because it is good at staying put, it is rated at high pressures and has a good operating temperature range which is great for all types of shops, heated or unheated. For anything with plastic/rubber I would try to find a lithium grease that is rated for contact with those materials, usually synthetic is an option here. I only use oil where it is recommended by the manufacturer and I use grease everywhere else.

[Edward Weber]

Well. like everyone else, I'm living a little in the past but for what you mentioned, I'd be using White Lithium grease.
JMO

[Bill Dufour]

Cotton picking grease is good for slow speed stuff like this. For the quill i would just use Dupont chainsaver lube. Wax in a spray can. Goes on wet like wd40 dries to clear wax coating. Spray a full dripping coat on everything or use a little and a rag to coat all sliding surfaces. Makes a good final solvent rinse for those hidden sliding ends.
No Silicones in the wood shop.
Bill D

[mike calabrese]

for the items you mention non rolling contact, simple sliding contact no load ........................Vaseline
calabrese55

[Richard Coers]

Not hard to criticize product improvement, but I applaud engineering and science. The reason your drill press is loaded with solidified grease is because of the lack of engineering for lubricants in the past. No need to have solidified grease any longer.

[Dan Case LR]

Thanks all for your comments and suggestions. I've been reminded that there is often more than one "right way" to do things. In my case, I've decided to remove all that excess grease and clean the surfaces completely, then use white Lithium grease. And never have to do it again in my lifetime.

It appears that much of that hardened grease is the result of being over-greased at the factory. I can envision some guy slapping a bunch of grease (more than necessary) into the hollow body of the drill press and putting the cover on. Of course, I could be totally wrong. It's just a guess.

Thanks Again!

[Jimmy Harris]

Thanks all for your comments and suggestions. I've been reminded that there is often more than one "right way" to do things. In my case, I've decided to remove all that excess grease and clean the surfaces completely, then use white Lithium grease. And never have to do it again in my lifetime.

It appears that much of that hardened grease is the result of being over-greased at the factory. I can envision some guy slapping a bunch of grease (more than necessary) into the hollow body of the drill press and putting the cover on. Of course, I could be totally wrong. It's just a guess.

Thanks Again!

White lithium is a good, general use, grease. It's kind of a medium viscosity, perhaps a bit on the thicker side. It should work fine. I always keep some of that on hand, along with some blue marine grease (which is thicker and very waterproof), some thinner grease (made for fishing reels), and some silicone grease (dielectric). It's the silicone grease that you really don't want to mix with oil-based grease. It's best for electronics, because it's non-conductive, and silicone O-rings. Between those four, I usually have a grease that'll work for most any job, with a few, rare exceptions.

They probably did over grease it at the factory. But there's often a reason for it. Usually, it serves two purposes. One, is to make sure it lasts. They probably assumed the owner wouldn't keep up with regular cleaning and maintenance, so slapping on a ton of grease helps to reduce issues from neglect. Two, lots of thick grease can cover up poor tolerances and wear. It'll make up for some slop in the fittings. Sometimes a thicker grease can help with that too.

[Bill Dufour]

A thick coat of grease also prevents rust during shipping. be glad they did not use cosmoline.