Jointing wedges.

[Brian Runau]

milling some 2" wide stock for leg glue ups. I had a newbie(to jointers) friend over and let him learn a little how to use a jointer and I or he milled a couple of these into a wedge shape. Out of 15+ pcs I only have 2 or 3 like this. Out feed table to cutter head height seems good. I have plenty of thickness left to fix them, I think.

They've been sitting stickered for over a week now. My thought is to lead with the thin edge and re-flatten the wedge side and then I can flatten them on the planer. Will this work?

Thanks.

Brian

[David M Peters]

Into your planer I'd lead with the thick side so that you know exactly how much material you'll be removing. If you lead with the thin side you'd be "wedging" your feed rollers and cutters!

[Brian Runau]

Into your planer I'd lead with the thick side so that you know exactly how much material you'll be removing. If you lead with the thin side you'd be "wedging" your feed rollers and cutters!

I need to re-flatten the original side first. It's moved since the first jointing, then plane flat. Thanks. Brian

[Patrick Kane]

Hey Brian, i would take a straight edge to the jointer beds. If you routinely get a wedge off your jointer, it is either because the rough material is really out of true, or the beds are not coplanar. You can counteract this most of the time by immediately focusing your pressure and efforts on the outfeed table.

[Brian Runau]

Hey Brian, i would take a straight edge to the jointer beds. If you routinely get a wedge off your jointer, it is either because the rough material is really out of true, or the beds are not coplanar. You can counteract this most of the time by immediately focusing your pressure and efforts on the outfeed table.

Grizzly G0586 I've had for 15 years. No serious problems. I am sure it was too much pressure on the leading edge. To re-flatten should I go thin end or thick end first? Brian

[Kevin Jenness]

As long as you have enough extra thickness everywhere it makes no difference which end you lead with. If you can't afford to lose thickness on the thin end of the wedge, put that end flat on the outfeed table and take the twist out of the fat end. Be careful when dropping on- safest way is to have a stop block fixed behind the workpiece, and keep your hands well away from the cutterhead.

If the pieces are bowed rather than twisted you can put the convex face down, lead with the thin end just above the cutters and take material off the middle.

[Brian Runau]

As long as you have enough extra thickness everywhere it makes no difference which end you lead with. If you can't afford to lose thickness on the thin end of the wedge, put that end flat on the outfeed table and take the twist out of the fat end. Be careful when dropping on- safest way is to have a stop block fixed behind the workpiece, and keep your hands well away from the cutterhead.

If the pieces are bowed rather than twisted you can put the convex face down, lead with the thin end just above the cutters and take material off the middle.

Thanks Kevin.

[Mark Hennebury]

'How much of a wedge are we talking, over how long.? information is important

[Patrick Kane]

15 years without recalibrating on that level of machine reinforces my point. It isnt that involved to tweak your beds back into alignment. And yes, i think you are correct, id bet your outfeed table sags down and away from the cutterhead and the infeed table.