Who Stands with Alex Snodgrass on Drift?

[Joel Gelman]

I do "stand with Alex Snodgrass" when it comes to the concept that if you have a miter slot on a bandsaw, the fence (and blade) should be parallel to the miter slot.... meaning you should not adjust the fence for"drift" in a way that creates fence and miter slot not being parallel.

I do buy into the idea that the fence and blade should be parallel and the way to do that is rotate the table vs adjust the blade tracking which changes the angle of the blade front to back.

[Myles Moran]

I had a bandsaw that drifted. It turned out the wheels were out of plane. Once I added a riser block and aligned the wheels, it had no drift issues. In that process, I also learned I could fine tune my blade alignment based on drift.

[vince mastrosimone]

I had a bandsaw that drifted. It turned out the wheels were out of plane.

If I remember correctly, Alex said that as long as the blade stays in the middle of the top wheel, it doesn’t matter if your wheels are coplanar. The location on the bottom wheel doesn’t affect anything. Did I get that right?

[Carl Beckett]

I had a blade that was drifting severely on me. I sharpened it and the drift went away.

I would bet that if I wanted to, I could dull one side or the other and get it to drift again. While I wouldnt 'choose' to do that, for whatever reason that blade did it for me.

No idea the implication just my experience.

[Ken Krawford]

Carl, how did you sharpen the blade?

I had a blade that was drifting severely on me. I sharpened it and the drift went away.

I would bet that if I wanted to, I could dull one side or the other and get it to drift again. While I wouldnt 'choose' to do that, for whatever reason that blade did it for me.

No idea the implication just my experience.

[Dave Sabo]

I am not drinking the kool aid.

1. Bandsaws DO NOT have/produce drift. Bandsaw BLADES are what cause the phenomenom. A narrow blade with 12 t.p.i. is gonna "drift" and a different rate than a wide blade with 3 t.p.i. And a wide 3 t.p.i blade from Laguna is gonna drift at a different rate than the same width blade from Lennox.

2. Not all saws have miter slots. All miter gauges are quickly adjustable though.

3. Not all saw tables have enough adjustment to allow for some blades' drift. Modifying them would be too time consuming, costly, or not possible.

4. Every bandsaw fence I've ever seen is adjustable in extreme amounts to compensate for any amount of blade drift. Even the pre-war Craftsman I have - which pre-dated the "drift master" fence by at least half a century. Driftmaster's real claim to fame is not its adjustment for blade drift, but rather its ability to precisely and repeatedly move toward the blade via a acme threaded rod. Allowing for more convenient resawing.

5. Not every saw has crowned tires or specifies running the blade in the center of the top wheel.

My biggest issue with the AS way isn't whether it works. It's that it's not possible for every saw -and- that IT IS MUCH SLOWER for those saws that are then adjusting the fence. I also have a bit of an issue with the faithful failing to acknowledge that adjusting the fence does work and is a viable method on any saw whether it has a miter slot and/or fully adjustable table or not. That they think their way is better or they prefer the AS method doesn't bother me in the least. The adjustable fence works on any saw with any blade and is extremely quick to adjust.

Like most woodworking tasks, there are almost always different ways to accomplish a given task and very rarely is one inherently better than another.

[Randall J Cox]

I'm with Lee. Michael Fortune video nails it. I've set up two bandsaws that way, an 18" and a 20" and both cut straight after adjusting the table to the band and the cut. Did not have to build in "drift" into my fences either. Good luck. Randy

[Randy Heinemann]

The answer, as others have said, is getting the saw setup properly and the Alex Snodgrass method works. Since I've used it, I get exceptional results. There are, o course, others who have slightly different steps in the setup but, in the end, if those methods work, they get the same results. Blade in the center, guides close enough to stop the blade from flexing to the side too much while not being in constant contact with the blade, and a table that is perpendicular to the blade and lined up properly. I bought the Snodgrass booklet many years ago and just have it there for when my memory fails me on one of the steps. Blade tension is only secondarily important as long as it's close to the deflection distance when putting pressure on it with your finger. Always, having a sharp blade is a requirement.

[Larry Frank]

The Snodgrass has worked for me. However, people have success with other methods. I am lucky because j have not had a "troubled" bandsaw.

[Carl Beckett]

Carl, how did you sharpen the blade?

A thread here on it. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....aw-blade-drift

I used the technique in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoaOkqi-xxs

[Ken Krawford]

Thanks Carl. I appreciate it. The file he used is a bit unusual. Any idea what it's called?

A thread here on it. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....aw-blade-drift

I used the technique in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoaOkqi-xxs

[Carl Beckett]

Thanks Carl. I appreciate it. The file he used is a bit unusual. Any idea what it's called?

I do not know. There were some links from others with ideas. I had some flat diamond stones that I stuck to a stick and used those (not too expensive to source). Wondered if sandpaper stuck to a stick would hold up (perhaps zirconia cut from a belt).

[Dave Sabo]

because this is veering a bit off track and I like a bit of controversy - I offer you folks this video from our ol' buddy AS in which he tells us to adjust the fence :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKx9CxAevW4


33min. mark is the place to be




There's also this dity from him advocating the same advice - though he is tryin to sell us a specific type of fence + companion jig:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKx9CxAevW4


SO..............................disciples of AS, I ask you - does his flip flop change your tune ?

Alter your opinion of him ?

Re-consider your position on adjusting the fence to deal with blade drift ?

-or- find it a big yawn ?

[Edward Weber]

because this is veering a bit off track and I like a bit of controversy - I offer you folks this video from our ol' buddy AS in which he tells us to adjust the fence :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKx9CxAevW4


33min. mark is the place to be




There's also this dity from him advocating the same advice - though he is tryin to sell us a specific type of fence + companion jig:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKx9CxAevW4


SO..............................disciples of AS, I ask you - does his flip flop change your tune ?

Alter your opinion of him ?

Re-consider your position on adjusting the fence to deal with blade drift ?

-or- find it a big yawn ?

This, and many other reasons, are why I refuse to listen to his advice, inconsistency.
I've said it before and I'll say it one more time.
Adjusting the fence to the blade is ridiculous and severly limits the saws capability. The use of sleds and other jigs that ride in the miter slot are rendered useless if the blade does not cut parallel. The blade has a built in tracking adjustment to fine tune the alignment, why not use it.

[Tom Trees]

Plenty folks on YT seem to copy his methods, to the extent that they haven't realized that he is...
not just the business, but in in the business!
If you've seen folks uploading a video with a new bandsaw, chances are they might indeed be poised as such.
Likely pull your back out by attempting such.... sure looks awkward, and an easy way of messing the cut up,
though maybe their tryin to be the next (insert brand) too, and making sure you can see the face and read the logo.
1791800B_Act1_606b.jpg
Saying that, perhaps their simply unconfident with a brand spanking new machine..
From some I've seen, I would feel the same TBH.
You might come across some mention of blades exiting out where most stand.
Dangerous of area bandsaw .jpg

And note most Italian machines either side of the fence is optional...
Take what looks to be amongst the oldest logistically transportable consumer bandsaws from Italy,
(which came with a rip fence, and not using a power feeder.)



CO 450.jpeg

Never had a blade snap on me, but I get the feeling a blade exiting the machine has happened to a few.
Screenshot-2022-4-17 Resawing revisited - The Luthier Community(1).jpg

Merely assumptions though, I should ask Grant this in the youtube comments.