Drawer slides - full extension - adjustments possible?

[Kevin Jenness]

the only issue I have with shims is, when the angle have to match the offset?

what is the proper way to cut a tapered board. I've never seen a taper made where the thickness of the board changes over the length of an entire piece for example 4 feet long. The closest thing I have seen is making your own shims

I'm not sure I want to do that. Everything seems to be working fine and by have the the feeling you will make it worse

these are shop cabinets. As far as quality goes, I don't care too much. I thought it would be nice just to have a front to cover the slides/ Slides are Richelieu for extension. Fronts are to be inset.

I'm not sure what your first question means. If I needed to shim the front out 3mm at one side I would use a 3mm shim strip at the front corner and a 1.5mm strip at the center of the drawer, taped onto the box or drawer front.

To cut a taper on the drawer box or drawer front I would use the jointer or edge sander. A hand plane or handheld belt sander will do the job as well.

Shifting the slide members in or out can compensate for small misalignments, as can depth adjustments on some undermount clips. Shimming the slide members off of the cabinet sides can do the same but you will soon hit the limit dictated by your drawer width. You say "Everything seems to be working fine" but by your description it is not- the slide that is not coming home is because it is aligned with the front of an out of square drawer box (or perhaps your case is out of square).

If you want to get the drawer fronts in plane you are going to have to use one of these remedies. You might as well give it a shot so you know what to do when building cabinets that somebody else is going to see. Fundamentally it comes down to accurate layout and cutting so you don't have to fiddle around with tapers and shims when hanging your drawers.