Thank you, Tom
so what profile was used on those 3/4 inch muntins?
Originally Posted by Tom M King
There is no good reason to draw bore today's kiln dried wood. Most of the failed old windows I've worked on failed because the draw bored pin spelched the tenon out, especially if that particular rail was quarter sawn.
The good thing about pegged windows is that you can replace parts on 200 year old sash by driving the pegs out and taking it apart-see picture with replaced glazing bars in an 1798 sash.
I don't use glue in making reproduction 18th and 19th Century sash, shutters, or doors. The sash in this picture haven't been pegged yet, but weren't draw bored when they were.
Around here, all the remaining original 18th Century sash have 3/4" wide muntins. In the 19th Century houses they narrowed them to 5/8".
A molding plane is easy to use. You hog off most of the material to close to the profile with multiple passes on the table saw, and the molding plane just finishes. If you did a great job hogging with the table saw, the first couple of passes just takes off strings, and then a pass or two of very thin shavings to finish.
The size of this job is pretty close to break even between custom cutters and doing them by hand.
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