Jointer Restoration/Cleaning Questions

[Gavin Egersett]

Hello!

Newbie wood worker here. I just started acquiring some tools after putting together a "shopping list." I got a deal on a Craftsman model 152.217060 that was to good to pass up. Just some normal wear and tear but was still in very usable condition upon purchase. I plan to work on restoring it by cleaning up the rust, new blades, paint, belt, and maybe the bearings. Here are my questions:

1. I can't find any blades that are specific to that model on Amazon. Are most 6 1/8 blades the same? I see model 152.21705 (no zero at end) has replacement blades (Powertec and Foxbc) and I think they're the same machine, just that the 21705 has a 1.5hp motor. Would those blades for the model 21705 work for my 217060 or any 6 1/8 blades?

2. Are carbide blades vs HSS blades that much of a step up? I know a Shelix head is made for it but I'm not looking to spend that money right now. I mainly plan to work with hardwood currently.

3. What kind of belt do you recommend for replacement? Not sure on the size but from what I've read there's a few different kinds.

4. Finally, rust removal and then lubing some parts. I've seen Boeshield, Evapo-Rust, WD40, Vinegar, and steel wool or sander combinations. Is there a consensus on what would be a good option that people recommend?

That's all for now - thanks for taking the time to read!

[Jimmy Harris]

Hello!

Newbie wood worker here. I just started acquiring some tools after putting together a "shopping list." I got a deal on a Craftsman model 152.217060 that was to good to pass up. Just some normal wear and tear but was still in very usable condition upon purchase. I plan to work on restoring it by cleaning up the rust, new blades, paint, belt, and maybe the bearings. Here are my questions:

1. I can't find any blades that are specific to that model on Amazon. Are most 6 1/8 blades the same? I see model 152.21705 (no zero at end) has replacement blades (Powertec and Foxbc) and I think they're the same machine, just that the 21705 has a 1.5hp motor. Would those blades for the model 21705 work for my 217060 or any 6 1/8 blades?

2. Are carbide blades vs HSS blades that much of a step up? I know a Shelix head is made for it but I'm not looking to spend that money right now. I mainly plan to work with hardwood currently.

3. What kind of belt do you recommend for replacement? Not sure on the size but from what I've read there's a few different kinds.

4. Finally, rust removal and then lubing some parts. I've seen Boeshield, Evapo-Rust, WD40, Vinegar, and steel wool or sander combinations. Is there a consensus on what would be a good option that people recommend?

That's all for now - thanks for taking the time to read!

1. I can't say for sure about the blades. You may want to remove the old blades and take some measurements. But so long as their the same length, width, and thickness, I bet they'll work. It doesn't look like this jointer has holes in the blades you have to line up.

2. Carbide vs HSS are just a question of how long the blades stay sharp. Carbide tends to stay sharper longer, but either can chip. And then you need to replace them anyway. So you don't always get more life out of carbide tipped blades. It kind of depends on what you're jointing. If you joint wood that might have nails or sand or knots that could chip and nick the blades, then carbide might not be worth the extra cost.

3. Does the belt actually need replacing? Belts can last a long time. And sometimes finding replacement belts on stuff like this can be hard. I've had issues in the past where the belt was labeled as one thing, but was actually something else. And since the old belt was stretched, I couldn't measure it to find out exactly what it was. But it seemed to be a metric belt that was labeled as if it were made with imperial units. China does that sometimes. So I had to buy several different belts before I found one that fit. And in the end, it didn't provide any upgrade in performance, as the old belt actually worked fine.

4. The best rust removal depends on what you're removing rust from. If its flat or big, sandpaper is probably the easiest. If it's smaller or has lots of intricate curves and crannies and whatnot, then evaporust or vinegar (basically, some kind of acid) and a wire brush is usually easier. Vinegar is cheaper, but Evaporust is reusable. Both work about the same. WD-40 and Boeshield are for preventing rust, not really for removing it.

[Mark Gibney]

Almost all my machines now have link belts. They don't take a set. On machines that got used sporadically I had more vibration when using a V-belt.
I get the belts at Harbor Freight.