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Thread: Another Pocket Door Question

  1. #1
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    Another Pocket Door Question

    Randy, Ken, how did you attach the drywall to the pocket door frame? The sides are only 3/4" thick and you can't have fasteners stick through. Did you use construction adhesive?
    Dennis

  2. #2
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    Hi Dennis~

    1" drywall screws if you're using 1/2" sheetrock.
    1 1/4" screws if you're using 5/8 drywall.

  3. #3
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    doors

    hello fellows:

    I have a pocket door question for you, I have been replacing the interior doors in my home. Making new ones from cherry, I have a pocket door between the bedroom and bath that I need to remove. I can't seem to figure out how it comes down. The trim is all of around the door but, I can't seem to figure this out.... I'm sure one of you have the answer.

    Thanks guys
    Ben

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Abate
    hello fellows:

    I have a pocket door question for you, I have been replacing the interior doors in my home. Making new ones from cherry, I have a pocket door between the bedroom and bath that I need to remove. I can't seem to figure out how it comes down. The trim is all of around the door but, I can't seem to figure this out.... I'm sure one of you have the answer.

    Thanks guys
    Ben
    This past year I installed pocket doors in a newly framed out walk-in closet in our bedroom. The ones I put in cannot be removed without ripping out the trim. Don't know if this applies to all pocket doors, but that is my experience.

    As far as the screws go, 1" drywall screws will work (though just barely) with the metal-backed "half-studs" provided with most pocket door kits. If you find they will not sink far enough, you could always grind a slight bit off the tip of the screws.

  5. #5
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    In the house I just built I contracted the upstairs drywall (and heating not that it matters) but the drywaller only uses construction adhesive over the pocket doors.

    A couple heavy beads then the drywall is screwed on like normal. The next day (or before the drywall is finished) the screws were taken out and the drywall finished like normal.

    Been over 2 years and there is no problem on either side, either with cracks of the holes popping.

    My $0.015.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  6. #6
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    Dennis, I Used Drywall Screws. I Just Start The Screws And Then Cut Them Off With Side Cutters If They Are Too Long.
    Randy Paulk

  7. #7
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    Dennis.....I just used shorter than normal drywall screws. The kit I bought had metal backed wood studs. I didn't have to worry about the screws getting to the door but if the screws were too long, they wouldn't set flush with the surface of the drywall.

    Ben......on my pocket door, you have to remove the trim first to remove the door.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  8. #8
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    Thanks guys, I'll pick up some 1" drywall screws.
    Dennis

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Abate
    hello fellows:

    I have a pocket door question for you, I have been replacing the interior doors in my home. Making new ones from cherry, I have a pocket door between the bedroom and bath that I need to remove. I can't seem to figure out how it comes down. The trim is all of around the door but, I can't seem to figure this out.... I'm sure one of you have the answer.

    Thanks guys
    Ben
    Ben, Look at the top where the door hangs from the roller on the track. There is a catch on the hanger plate which will release the roller and let the door fall free.
    Dennis

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis McDonaugh
    Ben, Look at the top where the door hangs from the roller on the track. There is a catch on the hanger plate which will release the roller and let the door fall free.
    I believe those quick-release catches can be utilized during the installation process to test fit the door, but after final installation of the trim, the doors still can't be removed without first removing some trim.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Farley
    I believe those quick-release catches can be utilized during the installation process to test fit the door, but after final installation of the trim, the doors still can't be removed without first removing some trim.
    Jon, it depends on how far down the door the trim comes. If its only a little way, you should be able to get a screwdriver in there. If it comes farther, you'll have to take the top piece of trim off.
    Dennis

  12. #12
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    doors

    Hi fellows,

    As I had mentioned the trim is off both sides, I will look a bit harder for the catches that you mentioned. The way that the door is hung does not leave too much room at the top to get a good look at.

    thanks for your advice
    Ben

  13. #13
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    Ben, I just installed a pocket door this week end so yours may look different depending on the age of the door. My hardware had two metal plates which are screwed into the top of the door. The hangers latch into these plates. You may have to stand on something to see them. Two sort of triangular levers which stick out the side of the plates. When they are aligned, the door is locked, when the are misaligned the door can be removed.
    Dennis

  14. #14
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    Ben....on my door, the top opening trim is installed first. Then the side trim is put on. To get to the mechanical hangars, I'd have to remove the side trim; remove the top trim; then I could get to the hangars and the releases/latches that hold it to the bearing assemblies. Good luck!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

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