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Thread: Attaching drawer frames to chest sides

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
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    4,741
    Collectively, here is what I would do today. I like Jim's idea of floating tenons. I don't think screws would work too well 'cuz the case is most likely only 1/2" to 3/8" thick where they are dadoed. Not much to grab.

    Also, I would have put some dust panels in too, just for measure.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,993
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch
    Collectively, here is what I would do today. I like Jim's idea of floating tenons. I don't think screws would work too well 'cuz the case is most likely only 1/2" to 3/8" thick where they are dadoed. Not much to grab.
    You da man! That's exactly what I was describing. In some constructions the front rail is capped or made with the same material as the carcass and dovetailed into the sides for a neat look. 'Depends on the style of the piece.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
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    2,266
    A good drawing, and article, in FWW about 2 years ago by Lonnie Bird on building a Pennsylvania Secretary covers this quite well. He recommended gluing the front tenon into the front rail and leaving the rear tenon float. He did not use a dado on the runners, but rather attached them with screws, in oblong holes tp permit movement. The drawer dividers, both front and back, are attached to the solid wood carcase with sliding dovetails. From this article I built a diningroom hutch which used those construction features. No problems. Here is a pix or 2, but because of the photography, it is hard to see. Also a pix where it may be more visible, an in process pix.
    Alan
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