SawStop Owners...

[Rodney Randal]

I just purchased the 3HP model (stealthy gloat ) with the 36" rails from Woodcraft yesterday morning and it will probably be delivered in a week or so and I have a few questions. I need to install a 220v circuit and also build a mobile base before it gets delivered.

For those of you that have the 3HP model...
1) Do you have it plugged into a 20A or a 30A circuit?
2) What kind of power cord did you make - size of cord (gauge and length) and plug type?
3) I am thinking of installing the outlet in the ceiling and having the cord follow the DC ducting that will connect to the saw. Anyone else do this?

For those of you with the 36" rails, can you tell me the distance from the left side of the base to the right side of the support legs for the extension table?

Thanks,
Rodney

[Roy Wall]

I just purchased the 3HP model (stealthy gloat ) with the 36" rails from Woodcraft yesterday morning and it will probably be delivered in a week or so and I have a few questions. I need to install a 220v circuit and also build a mobile base before it gets delivered.

For those of you that have the 3HP model...
1) Do you have it plugged into a 20A or a 30A circuit?
2) What kind of power cord did you make - size of cord (gauge and length) and plug type?
3) I am thinking of installing the outlet in the ceiling and having the cord follow the DC ducting that will connect to the saw. Anyone else do this?

For those of you with the 36" rails, can you tell me the distance from the left side of the base to the right side of the support legs for the extension table?

Thanks,
Rodney

Hi Rodney -

1) 20 amp breaker
2) I used 12 guage - about 10'.....and with a twist lock male plug.
3) This 12 guage wire actually connects to a 30' 10 guage extension cord that is directly wired to the 20 amp breaker. My thoughts being I might "roll" the saw around if needed - but this hasn't been the case. I'm thinking of using the long extension to hang down my DC drop ( it's attached to a pole) like you are suggestioning. My saw is not against any wall........so your suggestion should work!

Enjoy your saw!

[Rodney Randal]

Hi Rodney -

1) 20 amp breaker
2) I used 12 guage - about 10'.....and with a twist lock male plug.
3) This 12 guage wire actually connects to a 30' 10 guage extension cord that is directly wired to the 20 amp breaker. My thoughts being I might "roll" the saw around if needed - but this hasn't been the case. I'm thinking of using the long extension to hang down my DC drop ( it's attached to a pole) like you are suggestioning. My saw is not against any wall........so your suggestion should work!

Enjoy your saw!

Thanks Roy! I am going tomorrow to buy the electrical supplies to add this circuit, 2 110v circuits and possibly another 220v circuit. You must have the 52" rails, huh?

Rodney

[Ben Grunow]

I bet you can't wait huh? I know the feeling, I waited 3 weeks for mine.

I have 10' cord w/twist lock (s/j cord in same gauge as mentioned above) and 2 pole 20 amp breaker. The distance from the left side of the base (the base is flat on 3 sides and rounded on the front where the SS logo is-max footprint dimensions about 19 1/2" x 24 1/2") to the support leg (only one on my saw) is about 54". I say about so if you are building a mobile base in advance let me know and I will double check for you. You would be safe adding an inch to each dimension if you can't wait.

The online info is hard to decipher so let me know if you need more info. Are you expecting 2 support legs?

[Rodney Randal]

I bet you can't wait huh? I know the feeling, I waited 3 weeks for mine.

I have 10' cord w/twist lock (s/j cord in same gauge as mentioned above) and 2 pole 20 amp breaker. The distance from the left side of the base (the base is flat on 3 sides and rounded on the front where the SS logo is-max footprint dimensions about 19 1/2" x 24 1/2") to the support leg (only one on my saw) is about 54". I say about so if you are building a mobile base in advance let me know and I will double check for you. You would be safe adding an inch to each dimension if you can't wait.

The online info is hard to decipher so let me know if you need more info. Are you expecting 2 support legs?

Yeah, I can't wait! Luckily (?), I have to do the wiring and also am re-routing the DC ducting for various tools this week, including the new saw. Oh, yeah, I also have to deliver the old Dewalt DW746 to the son-in-law. I hope that I don't have to wait 3 weeks for the SawStop!

If you don't mind, could you double check the dimensions? I don't know how many legs to expect, but I was assuming 2. The only versions that I have seen are with the 52" rails and they have 2, so...I was assuming the same...

Thanks,
Rodney

[Ben Grunow]

Double checked and here is the result:

-footprint of saw is 19 1/4" wide by 25" deep (at deepest point since front of cabinet is rounded)

-distance from left of cabinet to right side of support leg foot (only 1 with 1 1/2" diameter rubber foot) is 54 3/8".

That said, please allow some extra room for the mobile base, for my sake. If you build it to my dimensions and it doesn't fit I dont want to find an agry Texan on my doorstep. Good luck adn mpost some pics when you get it.

[Rodney Randal]

Double checked and here is the result:

-footprint of saw is 19 1/4" wide by 25" deep (at deepest point since front of cabinet is rounded)

-distance from left of cabinet to right side of support leg foot (only 1 with 1 1/2" diameter rubber foot) is 54 3/8".

That said, please allow some extra room for the mobile base, for my sake. If you build it to my dimensions and it doesn't fit I dont want to find an agry Texan on my doorstep. Good luck adn mpost some pics when you get it.

Yeah, if I built it and it didn't fit, boy howdy, I wouldn't be hesitant to bring my brawny (scrawny?) 5'9", 145lb. self up to Connecticut and teach ya' to measure ! I think that I will make it an inch longer just to be sure - gas is kinda' expensive these days, and Connecticut is a pretty good drive from Texas, and flying... well, not looking like a lot of fun lately .

Thanks a bunch Ben!

Rodney

[Craig Colvin]

Those dimensions are close to what's in the manual (which is available online at http://www.sawstop.com/documents/Cab...ManualV2.3.pdf). I just ordered an HTC mobile base a few weeks back and verified the dimensions in the manual.

The 36" extension table only has 1 leg in the middle. And it is not needed.

[Rodney Randal]

Those dimensions are close to what's in the manual (which is available online at http://www.sawstop.com/documents/Cab...ManualV2.3.pdf). I just ordered an HTC mobile base a few weeks back and verified the dimensions in the manual.

The 36" extension table only has 1 leg in the middle. And it is not needed.

So Craig, you are saying that the leg in the middle would not necessarily need to be supported by the mobile base? How much vertical adjustment does it have? My base is going to raise the saw about 2-3 inches. Will the leg adjust that much?

Thanks,
Rodney

[Ben Grunow]

Yeah, gas is expensive and I'm 6'3" and 250 lbs of mean yankee wood butcher so make it 2' smaller if you want!

Just kidding, glad I could help. I just made an outfeed table and raised my SS up to 36 1/2". What a great saw. It passes the penny test you know. Good luck.

[Ben Grunow]

Just read your next question. The support leg has an 1 1/2" diameter rubber foot on it with about 1" (+/-) of thread so not enough probably. The thread looks like standard 3/8" thread (like threaded rod) so making a new, longer foot would be easy. The leg is hollow metal with a hole tapped in the end. This could be replace with wood or a new metal foot too as there are just 2 bolts holding it at the top.

Another thought-- many people use the space under the wing for a storage cabinet and that seems like a great idea if you have a mobile base in mind so maybe the foot could be supported by the base for now and later you could make a cabinet to replace the foot.

BTW- I think the foot is important. I can imagine cutting a bunch of strips of MDF and resting them all to the right of the fence and the saw wnating to tip.

[Rodney Randal]

Thanks Ben, Craig and Roy!

Rodney

[Chris Padilla]

I just purchased the 3HP model (stealthy gloat ) with the 36" rails from Woodcraft yesterday morning and it will probably be delivered in a week or so and I have a few questions. I need to install a 220v circuit and also build a mobile base before it gets delivered.

For those of you that have the 3HP model...
1) Do you have it plugged into a 20A or a 30A circuit?
2) What kind of power cord did you make - size of cord (gauge and length) and plug type?
3) I am thinking of installing the outlet in the ceiling and having the cord follow the DC ducting that will connect to the saw. Anyone else do this?

For those of you with the 36" rails, can you tell me the distance from the left side of the base to the right side of the support legs for the extension table?

Thanks,
Rodney

First, I don't own a SS and I tend to overthink/overengineer everything when it comes to electricity. I really like to err on the big side.

So, I would use twist-lock style receptacles and I would put it on a 30-A breaker which means the wiring in the wall needs to be #10. Next, my extension cord to it would also be #10 and it would be the "soft"/spendy kind that the local borg does sell for about a $1.25/foot if I recall correctly.

If you plan to get other machines (5 HP, for example) you may wish to plan for those now and "upgrade" that 240 V, 20 A circuit to 240 V, 30 A. Just a thought and thinking ahead. FWIW, ALL my 240 V circuits in my garage are #10 wired and protected by 30 A breakers.

You could still put in 20 A breakers but I suggest putting #10 in the wall NOW so you can upgrade with little worries later on if necessary.

If your TS will live in one spot and never move, by all means, put the outlet in the ceiling (suggest a twist-lok definately for this application) and tie the cord the the DC ducting. I'm not sure I would direct-wire the TS. Direct-wired stuff has other special considerations that I'd rather not deal with.

[Rodney Randal]

First, I don't own a SS and I tend to overthink/overengineer everything when it comes to electricity. I really like to err on the big side.

So, I would use twist-lock style receptacles and I would put it on a 30-A breaker which means the wiring in the wall needs to be #10. Next, my extension cord to it would also be #10 and it would be the "soft"/spendy kind that the local borg does sell for about a $1.25/foot if I recall correctly.

If you plan to get other machines (5 HP, for example) you may wish to plan for those now and "upgrade" that 240 V, 20 A circuit to 240 V, 30 A. Just a thought and thinking ahead. FWIW, ALL my 240 V circuits in my garage are #10 wired and protected by 30 A breakers.

You could still put in 20 A breakers but I suggest putting #10 in the wall NOW so you can upgrade with little worries later on if necessary.

If your TS will live in one spot and never move, by all means, put the outlet in the ceiling (suggest a twist-lok definately for this application) and tie the cord the the DC ducting. I'm not sure I would direct-wire the TS. Direct-wired stuff has other special considerations that I'd rather not deal with.

Well, thanks alot, Chris ! Now ya got me to rethinking my plan. Actually, I don't think that it is too much different than what I just got through buying. I do have the 10g wires that are for the 220v circuits, and I have a 20A and a 30A breaker. The only thing is I just bought 18' of 12g SJ cable for the power cord. I am still looking for the twist lock plug/receptacles.

Thanks,
Rodney

[John Bush]

Hi Rodney,
Congrats on the new SS. You will really enjoy it. I have 10'+ ceilings and wired conventional outlets above all my machines and made custom extension/drop cords that strap to the DC drops. I wired a separate circuit for each machine, used 20A breakers and regular plugs and outlets. I secured the plugs with flexible strapping to save a few bucks over twistlocks. It all works great.

I bought the HTC mobility base and it is spendy but very well designed. I have the 52" model and the saw is very stable when locked and moves very easily when you need to move it around. I initially planned on making my own, as this was the excuse I needed to buy a MIG, but the HTC was a better choice. Good luck, JCB.