Speaking of installed copper air line.

[Bart Leetch]

I guess I should have labeled it PVC Or copper & it would have lots of answers.

I just talked to my plumber about the different ratings of copper pipe K,L,M that we have been talking about here on SMC. He said that the M was plenty heavy enough for home wood shop air plumbing. He has had 120' of M in his shop for years with no one problem.

[Bart Leetch]

One more try.

[David Duke]

Don't really know what your looking for here Bart, your plumber may be right about type "M" being being fine for home use I wouldn't argue the point with him. If it were me however I would use type "L" if for no other reason is that in the few times I have used the "M", it seemed to "dent" rather easily when the "L" didn't and in most home shops you wouldn't be talking no more than 30-50 $ difference at the most. I'm sure others will be able to give the PSI rating to you don't know myself.

[Bart Leetch]

My installation will run around the end & 1 side of my shop above cabinets & shelves & only stick out about a foot to get to the hose reel very little chance of it getting hit with anything.

[JayStPeter]

I went with the heavier stuff also. I didn't find the extra cost objectionable, so why not. I'm sure the lighter stuff is fine though.

Jay

[Jim Becker]

I did type L. A little heavier and also what I need to use for repairs around the house due to our acidic water...the scraps always come in handy over time.

[George Robin]

I'm not sure of the proper designations. However, I used the thickest-wall copper that Lowes had on hand. I use it all the time with 120 PSI and no issues.
I installed them about 2-1/2 years ago. Still work well.
HTH
George

[tod evans]

bart, and others, i fail to see the reasoning to deviate from the tried-n-true black iron pipe? cost wise it`s just about a wash nowadays and spinning a wrench isn`t much more dificult that using a torch so what`s the allure of using copper or even various forms of plastic? tod

[Ken Garlock]

The Copper website has the standards for the 3 popular types of copper tubing, types K, L, M. I would not use M for any compressed air applications, as it only provides a safety factor of 2+, whereas type L gives you a factor of 3+. Drawn copper tubing is about half again better than the annealed type.

When we built I specified type L for all water supply lines.

[Chris Padilla]

I'm waiting for type J to come out....

[Alan Schaffter]

Bart, look at the ratings in the Copper Tube Handbook (see earlier post)- K, L, and M grade are all plenty strong enough in drawn or annealed copper unless you are using a scuba compressor! I think 1/2" of the thin stuff has a working pressure of over 400 psi (depends on temp of course). That is working pressure, burst pressure is even higher. I have used whatever I could get for my last shop and my new shop and run it at 175psi with no problems. Unless your runs are where you might hit it with a hatchet I wouldn't be concerned about the thin-walled stuff denting either. If you do pierce it you'll just get a leak that is easily repaired with a coupling.

How are things up on the rock? What is the status of the NAS with the impending demise of the EA-6B? Are they going to put the EF-18s up there? Will Oak Harbor survive if the Navy pulls out?

[Luther Oswalt]

The Copper website has the standards for the 3 popular types of copper tubing, types K, L, M. I would not use M for any compressed air applications, as it only provides a safety factor of 2+, whereas type L gives you a factor of 3+. Drawn copper tubing is about half again better than the annealed type.

When we built I specified type L for all water supply lines.

Ken,
That's a good reference site ... thanks ...
Leo

[Kyle Kraft]

Tod,

The allure of non-ferrous air piping, is IMO, its non-rusting characteristics. I'm with you all the way on ease of cutting, threading, etc. I've installed miles of black pipe at my previous employer.

[Bart Leetch]

I'm going with type M the plumber said his has done fine for years. Mine is all protected by cabinets & shelving accept where it comes out to the hose reel. After all it isn't like type M is just barely enough. I run my system a 125 PSI or less most of the time between 60 psi & 100 PSI. I've never understood the mentality if this is more than enough than 1 to 3 times better in grade or size is going to be even better. Better for what? It won't get the air there any faster & at the temperature it runs at I'll be more than again the strength that I need. Plus I don't have a plumbing supply house handy or anything closer than maybe if I'm lucky 60 miles round trip. We are only talking 30' of pipe at the most. I won't be spraying with it & when I use the sand blaster I'll hook directly to the compressor with a hose & run it outside.

Now if you really want to help me my system will have a hose going up from the compressor to the ceiling & the pipe will go on the ceiling along the wall about 10' straight ahead & make 90 degree turn at the corner to the left & run about 12' to 15' on the ceiling along the wall & make another left out about 3'-4' & hook to the hose reel via another short piece of hose. Where & how do I put a low point drain in this? Its my understanding that a low point drain is or my be the lowest point in the line with a valve to open & expel the water. Is this true? Can someone provide a picture? My copper line will come out over a
24" deep shelf at the last 90 degree going to the hose reel, but just before that there is a gap between the 2 shelves where I could drop down for a low point drain. I could slope the line as much as 1 foot drop in 12' to between the 2 shelves & then go back up & on to the elbow turning toward the hose reel. Will this work or should I plan on a drain some how just before the compressor hooks to the line?

Sorry if I came across a little gruff!!! But I see this ideology all the time on most forums of if this product will do the job just fine no problems but 2 or 3 times better in grade or size or different color will do the job better. I have a living example in my plumbers shop. I believe in my plumber my experience with him over the years has shown his education & judgment to be sound.

[Steve Jenkins]

Bart, can you just put a slight slope on entire run so it will drain back to the comp? that would work fine.