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Thread: How Accurate is the Festool Plunge Cut Saw?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076

    How Accurate is the Festool Plunge Cut Saw?

    I'm coming sort of from left field with this question because I'm attempting to save space by getting a festool plunge cut saw instead of a proper cabinet saw for cross cutting.

    I have a crappy contractor's table saw, which actually rips great with a forrest blade on it. The problem is, it's not deep or accurately-made enough to do a good job on long cross cuts.

    How good is the festool system for accuracy? Will I be able to make the long cross cuts within, say, a 64th, and will the cut quality be as good as a forrest thin-kerf blade?

    Space is a consideration, and so is electrical service.

    I have a compound miter saw for cross-cutting narrow solid stock, so that's not an issue.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,993
    It's as accurate as the marks you make on the material to establish your cut line...the guide goes right on the line of your marks.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    What Jim said.

    The tool will give you a cut that rivals any thing else.

    The accuracy depends on you.

    Per
    "all men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night....wake in the day to find that it was vanity; but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible."
    T.E. Lawrence

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Laguna Beach , Ca.
    Posts
    7,201
    Per is correct....I can make curves even when I am not trying
    It actually works well....for me it is not a glue line accuracy machine...jointing is still required. For ripping or stright lining long stock it gives you a good side to set against the saw fence on your cabinet saw
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Suffolk County, Long Island NY
    Posts
    1,150
    I have a Festool ATF55 and MFT and it is easier to get accurate crosscuts with this setup than with my 5 year old Bridgewood contractor saw. The contractor saw now just rips, the Festool system for all crosscuts and the miter saw mainly does molding.

    The dust collection and portability were my two main considerations and in both areas the Festool saw/table have been great.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Southern, CA
    Posts
    569
    David, I just rec'd my TS 75 plunge saw with 118" guide yesterday and when I got home from work I began to cut up some 4x8 sheets of Birch ply for some jobs I have going. I purposly did not use my Table Saw since I wanted to see how the TS 75 was gonna rip these sheets by myself. I am getting a bit tired of taking full sheets by myself through my Table Saw, not sure if I am old or just don't have enough room to feel comfortable doing it any more.

    So when I got home I have a 1" piece of foam 4x8 I lay on my outfeed table and then laid the 3/4" ply on top. Set up the guide rail, no clamps even though I purchased those as well. Plugged the saw into the DC CT 22. Marked my lines with a pencil. Set the guide and plunged into the cuts. I broke the sheet up into 3 rips and then made a few crosscuts. Let me tell you that the edges were perfect, I mean not one single splinter, none. I did not even use the Splinter guard on the saw yet either. then I made a few angled cuts. I was just blown away at the smoothness of the cuts.

    Now I will never get rid of my Laguna TS but I have to say this was a pleasure ripping full sheets with the Festool TS and the guide. Its going to make my jobs so much easier. Worth every penny IMO...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Puget Sound area in Washington
    Posts
    353
    I was in a similar situation, except I used a radial arm saw for cross cutting where a miter saw was beyond capacity. This works OK in a shop setting as long as you check the saw 'tune-up' before making a critical cut.

    It's on the job site that the Festool saw & rail plus vacuum really shine.

    For accurate cross cutting, say up to 8 - 10 inches, I use a couple of work mates to support the board. One is set with the jaws wide open where the cut will be, to support the off-cut.

    Then I set a short piece of guide at the cut mark, but use a combination square to square it on the mark. If it is to be a splice joint, I cut the mating piece in the same fashion, but rotate the combination square to cancel out any inaccuracy in the square.

    To ensure accurate lengths, I do the same as I would with a miter saw -- cut a smidgeon long, then trim.

    For longer cross cuts I would use John Lucas' methods. They would be hard to beat.

    Good luck.

    Loren

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Loren Hedahl
    ...For longer cross cuts I would use John Lucas' methods. They would be hard to beat.

    Good luck.

    Loren
    Damn Loren, that is nice to read. Come back Sun or Monday, I have added a digital fence for accurate repeatable cuts on the MFT.

    A teaser pic:
    John Lucas
    woodshopdemos

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