What are some ways to remove rust from old planes?

[Rick de Roque]

Have 3 old (new to me) planes that need some rust removed. These are my first rehabs.

Thanks,
Rick

[Brian Kent]

I have only used scotchbrite pads, WD-40, citrus cleaner, and shop rags in no particular order. The bottom and sides of the plane and the blade I clean as a part of the flattening process (sandpaper or abrasive film on a marble tile). At the end I usually buff the parts that don't get shiney from truing and sharpening.

But electrolysis has also fascinated me, such as this idea:
http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoep...lyticrust.html

Please know I have not ever tried this and don't know if the methods of this particular article are safe. This is just the one I have been thinking of trying.

I would love to hear what other, more experienced restorers use.

[Clint Jones]

There are several ways to remove rust.

Evaporust is a good product. You just submerge in the solution. It can be used over and over until it becomes unusable. You can get it at autozone I believe or here ebay Item number: 170103146671

Electrolysis This is a good link for this route https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/pl...ectrolysis.htm

You can also use citric acid to remove rust from planes.

Elbow grease, Steel wool, WD-40, Sandpaper and wire/3M deburring wheel.

Here is a good resource for the whole plane restoration process.
https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/pl.../planes101.htm

Hope this helps you out.

[David Wilson]

My vote is for electrolysis but do not use stainless steel for the positive electrode. Here is a better link.

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/n...ctrolysis.html

[Ruston Hughes]

I usually reserve electrolysis for the stuff I can't clean easily with abrasives. Electrolysis works really well but I think it's a little overkill for light surface rust that can be removed in a few minutes with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper. However, for dealing with significant rust or parts with lots of nooks and crannies it's my preferred method.

[Michael Pilla]

The only method I've used is citric acid and it was incredibly simple. I purchased the citric acid at a winemaking supply store, it was approximately $6 for a pound. This amount should last for 5 or 6 large batches.

I filled a 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 with warm water and added a fistful of citric acid. No measuring but I'd guess it was half a cup or less. I immersed the plane beds and checked on them after a few hours. I used a light scotchbrite pad to nudge the gunk away. Some planes were done in a few hours while others required a longer bath. As with many rust removal processes, the planes had a dull grey color and need to be polished if desired. However all the rust was gone as advertised.

I've only done this twice so far on a total of 4 planes so I'm no expert. I did it indoors. There was a faint odor from the acid but not objectionable in the least. My acid powder was labelled "food grade". No idea what that means.

Michael

[John Schreiber]

How necessary is it to remove surface rust on a user? On the face and sides and machined surfaces, it has to be removed as part of the fettling process of course. But on a recent #5, I just cleaned off the loose bits and waxed the heck out of it. I don't want to take the effort to get it down to bare metal, then repaint it.

Is there a problem with that aside from the fact that it's not pretty?

[Ken Garlock]

I have had good results using "Top Saver", the same stuff I use on my cabinet saw top. Follow that up with some good old Johnson's paste wax.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Rick, if you have never used electrolysis I can show you how. It is probably the easiest method in terms of the effort you have to put in and does the best cleanup job.

[nic obie]

I glass bead mine in a blast cabinet then dip them in Evapo-rust to stop the flash rusting from happening. I use the Evapo-rust for plated parts and on painted parts that I don't want stripped.

These people seem to have the best prices. It can be used over and over. They say that one gallon will treat 300 lbs. It's non-toxic and bio-degradable.

http://www.nebraskanhotrod.com/

It's a good product.

[Rick de Roque]

Thanks everyone for the help.

Zahid: It would be great if we can get together sometime and you can show me how to do electrolysis.

Thanks,
Rick

[Bill Houghton]

my variation is SOS pads (Brillo work fine, too, but SOS started in San Francisco, so I'm being a provincial Northern Californian) and warm water. The soap lubricates the steel wool, they're easy to come by, and a quick dryoff and application of WD-40 afterward takes care of lingering water.

[Jon Toebbe]

I'll second the idea for citric acid. It works beautifully at removing rust, though it will etch the hardened portion of the plane's iron black if you leave it in too long. Personally, I think it looks pretty nice when the blade is polished -- plus it makes it easy to see when you've polished the back dead flat.

I use about 1/2 cup of acid crystals in 3-4 gallons of warm water. The concentration isn't too critical, really. Just dump in some acid and let 'er rip. One word of caution: the bubbles contain significant amounts of carbon monoxide, so make sure you soak tools in a well-ventilated area.

[Roy Griggs]

Rick,
I use C/A and highly recommend it for ease of use...here's another link
http://www.shavingsandsawdust.com/pr...ning/index.asp
roy

[josh bjork]

I am just finishing up my first batch of acid cleaned junk. It'll make you cough when you pull a plane that was a rustbucket out and it is clean, smooth iron under there. I've been scrounging the shop for more rusty tools but having never seen the possibility of such a search, am finding it hard.