Preparing Raised Panels for finish

[Larry Fox]

I am fairly seriously contemplating doing another kitchen project which will likely involve quite a few raised panel doors and would like to make things a little easier on myself by cutting down on the sanding of the profile – specifically the end-grain portion – and am wondering how others do it. I don’t have a shaper so I will be cutting them on a router table. I know that sharp cutters are key but it seems that there is always some roughness on the end-grain cuts no matter how careful I am. Conceptually I don’t see how the situation would be any different on a shaper but I don’t know for sure as I have never used one.

The finish schedule is highly likely to involve at least one each of dye stain and glaze and the end-grain tends to really grab that stuff and look aweful if not properly prepared and preparing them by hand is a LOT of work. Ideally I would like to minimize the prep-time and do a nice job.

I can’t imagine people who do cabinetry for a living sweating over panels trying to smooth the end-grain to take finish well so I think there has to be a better way.

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

L

[Peter Quinn]

Conceptually I don’t see how the situation would be any different on a shaper but I don’t know for sure as I have never used one.

While the shaper spindle is moving somewhat slower than a router, the cutter is larger and typically has 3 flutes. The larger diameter cutter (typically 5 1/2"-7" vrs 2 1/2"-3 1/4") of the shaper results in a greater effective tip speed (speed at the widest point of the cutters diameter) than a router, and with three flutes there are typically more cuts per inch, which makes a smoother cut. Think MPH, not RPM's. The tip of the bigger cutter cover far more distance per revolution so its effective speed is much greater. The thickness of a shaper cutter and spindle is also less prone to deflection than most router bits.

Combine this with the fact that most shapers (mine certainly) are power fed for panel raising, which applies a consistent feed rate and significant down pressure to reduce chatter, and the shaper produces a higher quality cut much quicker than any router can produce, typically in a single pass. Factor in 500# to 1500# of iron to absorb vibration and a 3-7 HP induction motor to provide power and its no contest. All this comes at a significant cost.

On the router table I have had the best results with Freud's 2+2 panel cutters. They have two full profile teeth and two down shear teeth which cut only the deepest part of the profile. Seems to make the smoothest cut of any I've tried on the router and with less audible strain on the motor. You might also try making your final pass a VERY light one for better surface finish on the cross grain passes.

You didn't mention the species but in a finishing class I took the instructor suggested if using water based dye on wood prone to blotchy end grain to seal the end grain prior to application of dye with a light cut of shellac, possibly .75-1# cut? The suggestion was to pad a very thin coat of shellac on the end grain only. He said you could use Zinnser seal coat (2# cut out of the can) and thin it, then sand your panels, eliminating most of the shellac applied, the idea being to retard the absorption of dye by the end grain so it would more closely resemble the rest of the panel. Dye the panels before assembling the doors.

I have not tried this finishing technique, I'm passing it along in case it helps you. Test pieces are certainly in order. I know of no way short of a very expensive profile sander (like a shaper that flap sands the panels profile) to avoid sanding end grain completely, and I certainly don't enjoy that aspect of wood working myself. I worked at a commercial door shop where I would some times spend an entire week sanding double sided raised panels in preparation for assembly so I feel your pain!

[Steve Bagi]

Hey Larry,

I've had good luck routing end grain by placing blue masking tape on the edge that rides against the bearing or fence. Route the profile then remove the tape and make another pass, this time removing only a very little wood (the thickness of the tape).

Steve

[Terry Bigelow]

Peter has given you some great info Larry. I agree with the Freud 2+2 reccomendation as well. Not too sure about the shellac tip. I'd be afraid of getting different shades of stain unless you had it down real good. I could see it working too though. One tip I would pass on would be your sanding schedule. In order for a dye stain to be as effective as possible the wood needs to be "roughed up" a bit with 120-150, but not too rough that it leaves sanding stereaks. This opens up the wood for the dye to penetrate. Obviously the problem with end grain is that it simply sucks the stain too far in. I always make a point to sand the end grain with a much higher grit like 320 after making the appropriate steps up from 150(150-220-320). Works every time for us, give it a shot. Other than that I know of no such magic solution! We spend a LOT of time sanding at our shop!!

[Larry Fox]

Thanks for all the helpful replies guys - definitely some stuff to think about. I will take a look at the Freud 2+2 cutters as they sound interesting.

[Jim Becker]

Larry, I'll also "endorse" the Freud 2+2 design...really nice clean cuts. As to the sealing, I think you need to do a few sample panels and see what works best. That may be a wash of shellac or it may be just a "pre-stain" conditioner, depending on what product you decide to color with. It will really pay to run some sample stock to do that.

[Larry Fox]

Thanks Jim. I apologize for leaving this out of the op but think I have the finishing aspects well in-hand as I have done quite a number of them but each involved quite a bit of hand-sanding to get the end-grain to the point where it would take the dye and / or glaze consistent with the long-grain. My typical process is to sand the end-grain to a grit or so higher and put down a very light (~ .75 / 1# cut) of dewaxed shellac and sand it back. This gives me a good base from which to start.

My question is more related to ways I can reduce the sanding part. I have made custom sanding blocks by pressing the profile into Bondo and coating it with spray-on truck bed-liner to give it some "give" and this works quite well but it is still very time and labor intensive. Guess there reall is no good shortcut here. Has anyone tried to make their own custom profile for the Festool linear sander? Looks like an interesting alternative.

Thanks again for the time . . . .

[Jerry Olexa]

I suggest a very light coat of shellac on those troublesome ends followed by a gentle sanding....This will help slow down the absorption of the dye etc