What is the best type of drill bit to use when drilling 1/2" holes into cast iron? What may work the best?
Thanks!
- Keith
What is the best type of drill bit to use when drilling 1/2" holes into cast iron? What may work the best?
Thanks!
- Keith
"Listen, here's the thing. If you can't spot the sucker in the first half hour at the table, then you ARE the sucker. "
I used a cobalt (the mineral, not the blue borg brand) bit when drilling into my cast iron table without any hitch. I believe HSS will also work, provided it is sharp. Cast Iron is not as hard as you might think, compared to steel.
I did use a regular HSS drill without problem.
Ed.
No lubrication is necessary as the carbon in the steel will lubricate it enough. Cast iron drills and taps easily.
CPeter
Last edited by CPeter James; 12-11-2008 at 11:29 AM.
HHS drill bits are fine to do the job just make sure you bore a pilot hole first, I have found that if you drill several holes steping up a couple of sizes each time works best for me
I think I used HSS bits....really any decent bit should work ok. just take your time and it drills quite easily (no surprises).
I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger....then it hit me.
I just purchased a set of reasonably price DeWalt pilot point bits that don't require the pilot hole. They work great in cast iron with speed at minimum but are a bit agressive in wood.
Sarge..
A standard borg HS twist drill without lubrication will work fine. Cast iron IS NOT a hard material. There's no need for colbalt, M-42, or carbide, unless that is what you have sitting around.
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Good deal!! Thanks for the info, guys!!
- Keith
"Listen, here's the thing. If you can't spot the sucker in the first half hour at the table, then you ARE the sucker. "
Keith
a regular drill bit would work fine. I would use a smaller bit first and work up to the larger size.
Depending upon the bit, I'd suggest using a punch to put a nice little mark/dimple where you can put your bit so it doesn't wander on you.
Don't forget about placing a towel or something to catch shavings if they'll fall on anything you can't easily clean up.
As everyone else said, CI drills very nicely and cleanly...with a sharp bit, of course.
What Chris said about the punch. Then a reasonably sized pilot hole. Then the the real McCoy. Drill at a steady pace so you can control the drill, itself.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Keith, I have only one experience at this, so take it for what its worth. But, I decided I should have used a guide clamped in place - perhaps a 2" thick piece of oak thru which the correct size hole had been drilled on a drill press.
If you do a pilot hole, then double this procedure. I had difficulty with creep, but it may have been lack of the correct size pilot hole. Just a thought.
I center punched, drilled a pilot hole that was big enough to accept the splitpoint width and drilled it out to size. No lubrication required. Drilled easily with a cheap-o Ryobi bit out of a kit I got as a gift somewhere down the line.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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