I bought a Makita track saw a month ago, and noticed that the factory callibration was far from perfect.
The set screw for the 45 degree cut was off by a degre or two.
I am also having burn marks when cutting birch plywood, on the rail side (but not on the other side of the cut) and I realized that the blade is not parallel to the base plate, it has a slight angle pointing away from the track. With a caliper, the plate to blade distance is greater in front of the blade than it is in the back, by aprox 0.75 mm.
I am about to adust it, fortunately there are 4 screews on the base plate to make this adjustment, but I wanted to ask if it needs to be exactly parallel, or if it's preferable to have a slight tilt for a counter intuitive reason that I can't imagine.
I'm hoping that this callibration will get rid of the burn marks. The blade is practically new, so I think I can rule out blade dullness, especialy given that the burn mark is only on the rail side, and given the slight of the blade away (non parallel) from the track.
As for the straightness of the track, I wish I had a granite table to quantify it with a feeler gage.
With the zillions of Youtube channels dedicated to objective comparisons of tools, it would be nice if one of them was dedicated only to measuring tolerances. Cause right now most such reviews are pretty subjective, and I can't know to what extent (if at all) the cheaper brands (like Makita) are in the same league in terms of tolerances as Fe$tool.
I don't mind callibrating a tool myself, and will happily do it to save a few hundred bucks, but if the tolerances are much lower, that's another story.
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