Hi Creekers: The new bandsaw (Griz 513X) seems to know what it is doing and now the issue is to get the operator to know what he is doing!

I'm practicing cutting cabriolet legs using some glued up 2X4's as practice blanks. I'm using the stock 1/2" blade as the new Timberwolf's in thinner widths have not arrived. This limits the turning radii and requires some release cuts. (Timberwolf has a buy 3 get one free special this week and Highland Hardward has free shipping on WoodSlicer).

Starting with the pattern from the FWW article (available on the subscription side of their web site) CLPC 003 small.jpg I enlarged the pattern 400% on a copier and glued it to a piece of hardboard.

I also consulted some books on the subject CLPC 007 small.jpg and learned that the layout seems to vary by author. Lonnie Bird recommends toes and knees pointing toward each other on adjacent faces, Mark Duginski says, toes and knees pointing away.

The cutting is a learning experience; getting the feed rate, turning radius, hand positions and cutting next to the line correct has not just happened for me. But that's why I'm using 2X4's not mahogany.

Eventually I had three blanks cut, the first has the knee and foot at opposite angles, # 2 shows promise and 3 regressed a little the toe and knee got trimmed too close. CLPC 006 SMALL.jpg

As you can see in the background I've got more blanks to practice on today.

Which brings me to the question: How do you all cut your Cab Legs or curves in general? Any suggestions, pointers, tips, shortcuts, helpful hints?

(Incidentially, I love a bandsaw. I'm sorry I didn't do this sooner. Much higher safety factor to me compared to a table saw, quieter, smoother cuts and smaller footprint. If you are considering a bandsaw or a tablesaw I would sure give careful consideration to a bandsaw as a first purchase.)

I look forward to the input and ideas about cutting cab legs.

Tom, in Houston, enjoying learning a new skill