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Thread: Need wall-mounted workbench plans

  1. #1

    Need wall-mounted workbench plans

    I want to build a worktable along one wall which will have a radial arm saw mounted in the center and shelving above. The whole thing should be about 17 feet long. Have built the shelves and am about to mount them, now I need plans for the workbench. I'm thinking of including shelves and drawers under the table. Help!
    Thanks,
    Doug

  2. #2
    Doug:

    I'm doing that just now, thought I'm setting the bench length at about 10-foot due to the constrains of space. I decided on making three benches butted together so I can more easily accommodate my basement floor's irregularities. I'm doing this in conjunction with replacing the RAS table.

    I'm not building this with anything fancy. Just recovered 2X4s and 42X30 cafe tabletops from a construction recycling vendor here in town. The hardware cost me much more than the lumber and tops (I think a total of $13 plus tax for the material). Of course, I spent three-plus hours digging out nails and staples from the lumber, but I don't mind that sort of work myself, so that falls in the Pro column for me.

    I used a modified plan for a Weekend Workbench plan I purchased from Plans Now web site to build these. I'd built the full blown workbench (less drawers) last year using a solid core door pulled from a dumpster downtown tossed during a law firm's remodeling (a nice and heavy 9-foot by 42" piece that works great for me as a bench top). I'm toying with the idea of making some improvements to the bench once I"m done with the RAS benches.

    Here's a picture of the benches in progress. Hope it helps.

    Dave Potter
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Dave,
    I like your approach. Are you planning to put a table top on the saw at the same level as the adjacent surfaces? What about a fence at the back?

    I looked at the plans example and like the way they put drawers under the table and then a bench shelf at the bottom. I have a solid core 8' door that I'm planning to rip lengthwise to make my side tables. Think I'll find a laminated counter top to replace my worn out saw surface. Still thinking about the fence question. Also, I have to set the saw a fair amount away from the wall so I can rotate the raising wheel on top. I was debating making the supports out of 3/4 or 1-" plywood, but maybe your idea for the built up legs is the best way to go.

    Thanks for your advice,
    Doug

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Jewell View Post
    Dave,
    I like your approach. Are you planning to put a table top on the saw at the same level as the adjacent surfaces? What about a fence at the back?

    I looked at the plans example and like the way they put drawers under the table and then a bench shelf at the bottom. I have a solid core 8' door that I'm planning to rip lengthwise to make my side tables. Think I'll find a laminated counter top to replace my worn out saw surface. Still thinking about the fence question. Also, I have to set the saw a fair amount away from the wall so I can rotate the raising wheel on top. I was debating making the supports out of 3/4 or 1-" plywood, but maybe your idea for the built up legs is the best way to go.

    Thanks for your advice,
    Doug
    Doug:

    Yes. I'm planning on the RAS's table to align with the side benches (in fact, I've got the right-hand one done now and just finished the frame for the left hand one tonight. Have to wait for the glue to dry and as I work two jobs, I'll not get to finishing this little project until next Sunday (I think my wife will do me a serious injury if I disappear downstairs on Christmas day with family here).

    Dave Potter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
    Posts
    2,924
    I built a lengthy set of drawers on both sides with a recessed area for a SCMS, a radial could do the same thing. It isn't free standing but I have an absolute ton of drawer storage space.

    For a nice cantilevered station that could be modified for a RAS check out Jim Beckers homepage and go to projects. You should be able to find a post of his somewhere around here.

    I wasn't able to find a new pic with the oak plywood drawer fronts but this will give you the idea.

    Joe
    Attached Images Attached Images
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Stanwood, WA
    Posts
    3,059
    Here is the one I have:
    http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/083/...r-workstation/

    It comes from shop notes #83
    I modified mine a bit as you can see in the pics where I made it a wrap around in the corner but I fell in love with the design as it has some cool and cheap ways to do drawers plus I keep my shop floor clear (see my compressor). I placed my flip top planer under here with no problem.

    Just an idea
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  7. #7
    Dave, Joe and Dewey,
    These are some great ideas! I particularly like Joe's drawer storage and Dewey's pegboard cabinet fronts. You've got my creative juices flowing!! Dewey, I appreciate the materials cutout schedule, but do you have a blow-up drawing of the assembled piece? I particularly would like to see how the drawers are assembled and mounted in the frame.

    Thanks guys,
    Doug

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Stanwood, WA
    Posts
    3,059
    Doug,
    Sorry it took me so long to get back to you:

    The drawer is just a flat pc of 1/2" ply with which rides in a channel made from aluminum track (BORG)

    Hopefully the pics help. (Sorry they are kind of dark) If not PM me your address and I will mail you the plans as long as you send them back to me when you are done.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    146
    For wall bench space I used unfinished cabinets from Lowes and countertop material. Three six foot sections for 18' of space. Fast and fairly cheap. Then I built a Roubo style workbench. Here's a few shots.






  10. #10
    Andy:

    Nicely done!

    Dave P.

  11. #11
    Dewey & Andy,
    More great ideas! Thanks.

    Dewey, how smooth does the channel track work? I looked at ones my brother-in-law had made over Christmas and he used roller bearing tracks that allowed the drawer to pull completely out of the cabinet. Very nice and convenient, but certainly more expensive than what you did. I plan to put a fair amount of weight in the drawers, and am concerned the channel approach may not run smoothly. What do you think?

    Thanks,
    Doug

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Stanwood, WA
    Posts
    3,059
    I waxed mine and some run smoother than others. The main thing with this design is the width of the bottom of the drawer which serves as the double duty as the runner.
    Nothing with this design will ever equal the smoothness of ball bearing slides so your call. Slides are best bought in bulk for a big project like this.
    In the end... they are shop cabinets. Some shops have more elaborate cabinets but I built these right after I made the 12 drawer bank for under my workbench and to be quite honest, I was looking for something fast and cheap so I could get on with some projects which could live outside the shop. I think they came out ok but none of them work like my kitchen cabinets... then again they are all shallow so none will be under heavy load even when packed. If I were to make a deep drawer which would have heavy stuff loaded in it I might so with slides.
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  13. #13
    Dewey,
    Thanks for that info. I plan to make these drawers large to hold some relatively heavy stuff, soooooooo---- do you know a good supplier of tracks that are strong and cost effective?
    Thanks,
    Doug

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Stanwood, WA
    Posts
    3,059
    Look through these and pick your depth. If you can afford it go with full ext.

    http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=12306811...0slides&page=1

    I am not sure but I think I bought mine off Amazon. KVs are nice
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  15. #15
    Dewey,
    Thanks for the info. I'll probably buy the KV 20" ones.

    BTW, are you a retired Command Senior Chief?
    Doug

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