Need Good 10" Rip Blade???

[Douglas Brummett]

CMT dedicated 24t rip here. I have pushed through a couple hundred linear feet of 8/4 poplar, some oak, and maple. I am pleased thus far. I picked it up at Woodcraft. The sales staff also recommended the Freud rip blade, but commented that the cmt had larger carbide pads and the guy who did sharpening preferred them.

[BOB OLINGER]

I just started using the Freud thin kerf rip blade and so far, great, very satisfied; so much that I ordered another Freud crosscut blade. Looking to do a substantial amount of resawing on oak and popular during next few weeks, so it will be put to further test.

[John Thompson]

I have two CMT 24 T full kerfs and two Amana 20 T Euro full kerfs which are actually made by Dimar in Israel. The CMT's get the call on 6/4 and under and the Amana's on 8/4 and over. You didn't mention the TS HP but I would run full kert if 3 HP or over.

I have used Freud and FS in 24 T and are fine for 13/16". For that matter you can probably get away with a 40 T but it will slow the feed rate down and especially in maple which has a tendency to burn anyway. But.... if you are going to the jointer anyway for your edge, just rip 1/8" over and take it to the jointer for a 1/16" pass on each side which I always do regardless of species.

Good luck...

Sarge..

[Tom Walz]

If you want a good blade spend $10 http://www.carbideprocessors.com/sto...nomyblade.html

If you want "like sanded" cuts spend $25.

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/store/finalcut.html

Maybe not as good as the $80 and $100 blades but still a good ripping blade.

tom

[Lee Schierer]

I have and use a Freud 24T thin kerf rip blade. It does an excellent job, leaving a glue ready edge. For years I would glue up boards without edge jointing because I didn't have a jointer. I can't recall a single joint failure from saw edge glue joints. If your saw is properly aligned you should get tooth mark free cuts and no burning.

The thin kerf blades are designed for less powerful saws. Because they take a smaller bite out of the wood, they need less power to make the cut. If your saw is porperly aligned and you don't force teh cut, you should not see any blade deflection. Freud blades have radial expansion slots to prevent blade warp should the blade get warm. I've never flet mine get much above room temperature even after lots of ripping.

[Myk Rian]

I use the Freud glue line up to 1". If it's real rough lumber, I'll use the blade that came with my Steel City TS.

[Travis Teichmann]

I have recently started using the Freud 24t thin kerf rip blade and love it! I haven't tried others, but I get great smooth cuts with this one.

[Mike Wellner]

I like the Freud Glu Lam 1/8 rip blade

[Randy Rose]

Another vote for the Freud 24T full kerf

[Jerome Hanby]

My vote goes to the Freud Glue Line Rip blade. It will rip perfect edges which require no cleanup and no burning. I use it and I love it.

Same here.

[Mitch Barker]

I was using a thick kerf WWII on my contractors saw. Slow ripping with lots of burning. Out of desperation I bought the freud 24t thin kerf rip blade at woodcraft. Wow, what a difference. The blade sliced through 2" wenge with little resistance. I was truly shocked at the difference.

I presume the freud is so much better than the WWII because the freud is thin, 24T and sharpened for ripping (flat tops). Not sure which of these factors was most important, but it made think about putting my barely used WWII up on ebay and get a think kerf crosscut or combo blade. As someone else mentioned, I've started switcing blades more often. The goal of one universal blade remains unachieved.

[scott spencer]

I was using a thick kerf WWII on my contractors saw. Slow ripping with lots of burning. Out of desperation I bought the freud 24t thin kerf rip blade at woodcraft. Wow, what a difference. The blade sliced through 2" wenge with little resistance. I was truly shocked at the difference.

I presume the freud is so much better than the WWII because the freud is thin, 24T and sharpened for ripping (flat tops). Not sure which of these factors was most important, but it made think about putting my barely used WWII up on ebay and get a think kerf crosscut or combo blade. As someone else mentioned, I've started switcing blades more often. The goal of one universal blade remains unachieved.

An FTG grind is definitely more efficient at removing material, and it was new and clean, but it's likely the combination of width and number of teeth that really reduce the feed pressure the most. Your WWII has 67% more teeth, and is 33% wider than the 24T TK ripper. No single blade will do all things extremely well....though good combo blades will do alot of things reasonably well...they faulter most in the extreme ranges of heavy ripping and ultrafine crosscuts.

A good dedicated 24T ripper and 80T crosscut blade will certainly give the best performance in the extreme ranges, but they offer little versatility outside of their dedicated range. I really like the range and performance that a good 30T ATB blade offers in conjuction with a good 60T crosscut blade with a Hi-ATB grind and moderate positive hook (ie: 30T WWII and Infinity 010-060). The 30T will handle thick ripping noticeably better than the 40T...even upwards of 3", yet still crosscuts reasonably well, so you can get general purpose use out of it. The 60T Hi-ATB crosscuts very cleanly, especially in ply and melamine, rips well to ~ 5/4" in most materials, and can also be used for many general purpose tasks. Both give a hint of the performance of a dedicated ripper and dedicated crosscutter respectively without giving up the versatility. Both can be left in the saw for most general purpose work, and often don't need to be changed out until a task comes along in the extreme ranges.

Rick, are you still following this thread?

[Bruce Page]

24t Freud Rip blade for me. I only use it when i am ripping a ton of stock but when I do it works perfect.

I use mine the same way with the same results.