Euro hinge ????

[Bill White]

Do you offset the cup hole differently for different overlays?
What is your standard overlay, and do you have a pattern?
Thanks in advance.
Bill

[Randy Tullis]

I alway use 1/2" overlays on my face frames. I believe that you can buy the hinges with different overlays. I love um.

Randy

[Tom Veatch]

Within limits, the overlay is defined by the detail design of the hinge. You need different hinges for significantly different overlays. For example see:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...r=euro%20hinge

As you can see from the picture, if you offset the cup location to increase the overlay, the edge of the door will interfere with the face frame when the door is open.

Note: the link provided is not to be construed as a recommendation for this brand of hinge. Simply provided as an illustration of the availability of different hinges for different overlays.

[Bill White]

By the way, I have played golf a Prarie Dunes in Hutchinson several times.
If you play, and have a chance to play PD, it is SWEET.
Bill

[Craig D Peltier]

Do you offset the cup hole differently for different overlays?
What is your standard overlay, and do you have a pattern?
Thanks in advance.
Bill

Different brand hinges fluctuate on how far the cup hole is from the edge. I believe most are 5mm. I think thats Blum. I use a hinge jig from rockler for this placement ( maybe called Jig-It or thats the line).Works great. Others use there drill press with an accurate stup on there fence.
For varying overlays they range from 1/2 to at least as high as 1.25 you need the specific hinges. I use full overlays most of the time which is 3/4.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Bill

Please have a look at the links below...

Euro hinges - part I http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4556

Euro hinges -part II http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4567

Euro hinges - part III http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4580

Regards
niki

[Jose Kilpatrick]

I'd reccomend owning a few of these plastic templates for each type of overlay you will be using.

Always do a trial run on on scrap just to be sure.
And label each template so you know to grap the right one.

Euro hinges can dress up even the shabbiest of projects.

[Karl Brogger]

Three things determine the overlay.

1. Where the cup is drilled
2. Offset of the hinge
3. Height of the mounting plate.

With a 3mm hinge plate, and a straight arm hinge I'm boring my doors at 22mm, (might be 21mm). So that would be 4.5mm from the edge. I use Blum hardware, and use a 1/2" overlay all around, (door would be 1" taller/wider than the opening for a single).

If you go to a thicker plate, then drill the cup in farther in to compensate, you may get interference as the door will rub against the frame with some combinations.

[hank dekeyser]

As far as I know from experience in a full-line cabinet shop- the hole goes in the same location regardless of the overlay. You purchase a different hinge mount for different overlays. (the hinge mounts basically are justt different thicknesses to give the correct offset.) I drop off my doors, tell them the overlay- I leave w/ doors drilled / hinges inserted and proper plates.
I am friends w/ the owner / used to work there, so I pretty much get 'em at cost plus 8% - saves me the hassle of waiting for hinges, drilling, etc.

my 2 cents

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

I'd reccomend owning a few of these plastic templates for each type of overlay you will be using.

+1 on that.
Those plastic templates make layout mindlessly easy.
HD has a "green one" w/35mm Forstner bit for around 11 bucks.

The other thing I found very usefull is to make a jig out of a piece of scrap ~ 6" to 1' long. Layout a hinge location along one edge. Drill the 35mm pocket all the way through.
When you set the fence on the drill press, simply run the bit into the pocket of the jig and snug the fence up to the jig.

One other trick I stole from someone here is to toss a roll of 3/4" masking tape over the area to be drilled. It contains all the chips so a shop vac can whisk them away slick as goose poo.

[Nissim Avrahami]

The other thing I found very useful is to make a jig out of a piece of scrap ~ 6" to 1' long. Layout a hinge location along one edge. Drill the 35mm pocket all the way through.

If you'll have a look on the second link, you will see it with pics

When you set the fence on the drill press, simply run the bit into the pocket of the jig and snug the fence up to the jig.

There is an easier method to set the drill press fence...again, on the links...

Regards
niki