Interior Trim

[Brett Nelson]

Looking for some opinions. I'm getting ready to trim out my new home. I realize that a lot of you prefer to use poplar for interior trim, but cost doesn't allow it. Anyway, that isn't my question. I will need a lot of 1x6 S4S flat stock. Something like 2600 lineal feet. I was going to use 3/4"x5-1/5" Raw MDF, but my lumberyard guy is trying to talk me into just going with #2 common 1x6x16' pine. He claims that he just helped trim out a house with it and they only had a handful of boards that were deemed unsuited for paint grade trim.

Obviously clear lumber would be best, but will the #2 common work well enough for painted base and window/door casing? Or will there just be too many knots?

[Von Bickley]

When my house was trimmed out, we use wood for the crown molding and chair rail. We went with MDF baseboard.

[Jason Roehl]

Your version of quality and the lumberyard guys' may differ greatly. Personally, I think painted #2 pine looks like crap without an insane amount of prep.

MDF has its own challenges as trim. It is fragile until installed, and anywhere it is shaped and bare MDF edges are exposed, it is difficult to paint without some extra effort in priming and sanding.

What's your goal for the painted trim package? Get it done for cheap? Best possible? Or some compromise between the two?

[Brett Nelson]

Well, the house would be considered high end, but I'm running into budget issues now. That isn't to say I want the cheapest possible, but rather that I don't want to spend money on something that would otherwise go unnoticed.

I don't really want to be running along every baseboard with filler trying to smooth out a knot every 6". I generally don't love finger joint trim as I see the joints lift when painted with water based paints. OTOH, I don't see the point in getting perfectly clear pine either.

I really like certain characteristics of MDF and it requires very little prep, but it has issues of course. I think poplar is just out of the question because of price. Obviously, the #2 pine is a great price, but I don't want to be spending 2 weeks getting to know my can of wood filler.

In short, it does still have to look high-end, but I'm not against MDF.

[Ben Franz]

I, for one, don't have any overwhelming issues with MDF trim. It can mushroom if your nailer pressure isn't adjusted properly, it isn't good where water gets on it (baseboards in bathrooms, etc.) and, as Jason points out, cut edges can be a problem.

I've always used pre-primed stock and mouldings when available. Most of the commercially available trim is primed and it's less expensive than field priming. I think the quality of the finished surface is equal to good poplar for less money. Probably run many thousands of feet of MDF trim - no regrets. That plastic c**p the borg was pushing for a while is another story but that's another topic entirely.

[Jason Roehl]

I'm with Ben on this if you consider it to be a high-end home. Trim is a double-edged sword that way. You can build a huge, fancy house, but if the trim and paint are cheap, they will stick out like sore thumbs. Do a great job on them and don't skimp, and few will notice.

I'd shop around for a pre-primed MDF package in the profile you want. There are primed packages that have a noticeably thicker coat of primer than others, which is great (unless the factory stacked it too soon!).

[Jim Kountz]

Do some looking around, I can buy poplar for less than #2 pine at the borgs. I would never ever trim a house I was going to live in with MDF...........again. I tried that crap with my house and I have been slowly replacing it over the years as I get time. It swells up, then it gaps open, if you're coping it dont expect fine details cause most of them will break off very easily. You have to handle it carefully. Poplar is a dream to work with for trim. It mills nice and is easier to prep. It holds details better and to me provides better end results. Your mileage may vary.

[Paul Greathouse]

The preprimed MDF package that Jason and Ben have mentioned will probably be your cheapest choice. There is one other alternative that would look good but you would have to check the price difference verses the package. You could do built-up molding by running the 3/4" MDF and go with a base cap on top of it, then you wouldn't have to route the MDF.

I've also used base cap as part of built-up door and window casing. When doing built-up the possibilities are almost endless and if done right it looks very high end.

[Dan Hahr]

2600 feet? How big is this house?

[Tom Godley]

I second a look at the better mdf.

Many years ago I was forced to remove all the base moldings and door trim for a large remodel in my house. What I was left with was a 5" inch band of rough plaster around the entire house that had to be covered - not to mention all the door trim areas that had to be redone. The only rational economical solution was to cover all with rough and damaged areas with wide enough moldings. I had spent a lot of time and money on this project and I wanted it to look better than just good. After much looking and comparing we ended up - with some trepidation - going with a pre primed mdf.

This original project was 15 years ago and I have been very happy with the results. I was able to get a large profile mdf moulding to cover all the areas - this at a cost less than what standard pine moulding would have been. Having the ability to install 16' pre-primed pieces is a real treat. The mdf painted up beautifully and has remained stable ever since.

We did learn to minimize the nailing and to use dots of glue to attach the mdf -- as well as to go along and hit all the cuts and nail holes with primer.

I would recommend it and have used it many times since. Not sure why others have a problem with it? We have it in the bathrooms with no problems.

Look around it is not all the same - the better stuff is thicker with more detail and has a better finish on it.

[Brian Peters]

I still think go with the poplar. Most lumberyards that mill pine moulding leave a horrible cut on it with tons of chatter that will show in the light later on if unsanded well. I can get poplar primed moulding here in quantity for only a little bit more. The overall cost is a bit more but its worth it IMO. MDF baseboard is good but doesn't take abuse well. Plus it's a pain to nail and even more a paint to cope as it doesn't hold its details. If it's s4s and a cap is put on it with no exposed edges I think it would work fine for you though.

[Don Bullock]

Brett, I'm in s similar situation. MDF seems to be the best choice for me as well. Yes, I realize that I'm a woodworker and MDF isn't wood, but I'd much rather save some money on the painted molding in the house that can be used for some of the oak trim that I'm also installing in parts of the house. In my case I'm buying MDF molding that has been primed from our local lumber company through a contractor who is getting it with his discount.

[Matthew Voss]

My local building supplier sells pre-primed 1x finger jointed pine in up to 16' lengths.

Inexpensive, smooth, paints very nicely.

[Matthew Voss]

I generally don't love finger joint trim as I see the joints lift when painted with water based paints.

I should add that while quality can certainly vary with FJ, major manufacturers like Windsor One machine finger joints precisely and are factory primed with no telegraphing.

[Allen Tomaszek]

Where are you located and what is your budget? MDF would work but as others have pointed out if you look around you can find a variety of woods at a low price.