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Thread: How to Finish Teak?

  1. #1

    How to Finish Teak?

    I am interested in finishing a teak wood base for coffee table. Can someone tell me what finish I can use and/or how I would prepare the wood for that finish. I want the finish to be natural and I would like the grains of this oily wood to be raised to show there beauty. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Shekhar.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Stanwood, WA
    Posts
    3,059

    Keep in mind...teak is an outdoor wood if there ever was one

    Furniture makers use a product called SEMCO teak sealer. It's a solvent based product that is easy to use just follow the directions.

    The problem with most products not made for woods like teak is that the oils in teak will eventually push any film building finish off so if you go that route be ready to refinish over time.
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Little Tennessee River near Knoxville.
    Posts
    1,227

    Finishing Teak is simple.

    Just wipe it down with acetone or lacquer thinner prior to finishing. This will remove the surface oil. Thats all ther is to it.

    For indoors, you can use urethane, or lacquer. For outdoors you will need a good marine finish. Not the crap at home depot.

    A friend of mine still has teak furniture I finished with lacquer over 25 years ago.

    Unfortunately, I am on wife's computer right now so no pics. But.......
    Look in my profile, go to albums and look for album labeled "Companionway Doors". There is a before pic of raw teak doors and an after pic of doors finished with varnish. This is all natural. Nothing on wood except for varnish.
    Last edited by Tony Bilello; 03-22-2009 at 10:45 PM.
    Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
    Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville

  4. #4
    If it were me, I'd just use a long oil finish. The oil will bring out the grain, and it won't build to a film but will offer moderate protection.

  5. #5

    Thanks for the replies

    I am planning on rubbing the teak base with acetone and follow it quickly with polyurethane applied by brush. However, some of the surface on the base is not smooth and I am wondering if I need to dilute polyurethane with water to make it thinner. I do not want it to look like there is a distinct film on the surface. This polyurethane is water based.
    Regards,
    Shekhar.

  6. #6
    I can't offer advice on how to thin waterbased poly - which might actually be more of an acrylic resin than a real poly.

    But I CAN say, that if it were me, I'd go with a wiping varnish or oil based wiping poly. You'll have a much easier time applying it and you'll get NO build.

    If you really want to use a water poly, then spraying it thinned will give you more control. If you don't have access to spray equipment, then the BORG aerosol polys - waterbased and oil based are so diluted, they're very easy to control the build.

  7. #7
    What kind of oil do you suggest?
    Thanks.

  8. #8
    I really like Watco Danish Oil. It gives a satin finish and is about the easiest thing to apply. It's a combination of oil, thinner and a some varnish, so it's not really an OIL, but it has more oil than a straight poly or varnish has, which makes it softer and less 'buildy'.

    A wiping varnish is just varnish thinned with a thinner. It doesn't build as fast as full strength, and would be appropriate for what yr trying to do also.

  9. #9

    Teak finish

    I did not read your post before going to Woodcraft today. I purchased some Watco Teak Oil and some Mineral spirit to dilute it if needed. I believe mineral spirit can be added to reduce viscosity for a thin application.
    I am planning on rubbing the wood with acetone to make the oil recede before applying the teak oil. Do you think this would be appropriate?
    Thanks for your earlier replies.
    Regards
    Shekhar.

  10. #10
    I'd wait for a pro to chime in about the need for acetone, but I doubt you need it. The Teak oil is a good product too; it's the same thing as Danish Oil except formulated for exterior use (I think there's some mildew inhibitors in there).

    The instructions on the can should guide you fine. There's no need to thin it with MS; it won't build appreciably; it'll just make the surface shimmer and make it smooth and satiny.

    Some people like to apply the 1st couple coats of an oil finish with 220-400grit sandpaper to make a slurry that partially fills the pores giving a smoother finish to the eye and to the fingers. You don't have to do it though.

  11. #11
    Thanks for the suggestions Shawn. If it all works fine I will post some pictures.

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