First Corings

[George Clark]

I read with interest Steve Schlumof's post and the following comments about his mis-adventures with the McNaughton coring system. Based on other similar experiences and comments when I was researching coring systems I chose the Oneway system. I figured, for me, the shorter learning curve was a fair trade for a bit less variation in the shape. Besides, I like the hemispherical shape on my bowls. It was a shape I often try to achieve, anyway.

I finally scored some green sycamore large enough to merit coring and tried the system out yesterday. I can honestly say the learning curve with the Oneway Easy Core was virtually zero, for me. Success on the first try; one big blank led to five rough bowls.

I watched the DVD Oneway supplies 3 or 4 times and the only real problems I had were mounting that heavy rough blank on the headstock and I couldn't figure how to turn a tendon on the blank so I turned a tenon instead, but it worked OK. One bit of advice I can offer is to stay away from Al faceplate's when trying to mount very heavy clumsy bowl blanks. The threads are just to soft to stand the gyrations required to get the thing screwed onto the headstock. I ordered a 6" cast iron faceplate this morning.

All in all a very satisfying experience. Now for the drying.

George

[Steve Schlumpf]

Wow - congrats on your new coring system! Sure looks like it works pretty good! Any problems keeping the support arm aligned as you progressed through the cut? Did deep coring stop your little lathe? LOL

[George Clark]

Steve,

No trouble at all keeping the support arms aligned. One has to be sure the cutter is able to cut new wood after repositioning the support arms. You can't power your way through a wad of chips.

George

[Mike Minto]

George, what were the physical dimensions of that blank prior to your coring it? May one alter the corings as per depth and diameter, or is that fixed by the coring system? thanks for any info, mike

[Bernie Weishapl]

George those are some great looking cored bowls. I have the same unit and really like it.

[George Clark]

Mike,

My rough blank was a little over 18" in diameter on the larger end by about 10" deep. The the system is available with four different cutters, 9", 11.5", 13" and 16". There is some diameter variation with each cutter. I believe the deepest cut you can make would be a hemisphere. You can make shallower cuts or partial hemispheres by moving the the cutter pivot further away from the headstock. I hope this makes sense.

http://www.oneway.ca/coring/index.htm

George

[alex carey]

Looks like it worked for you quite well, congrats on a job well done, but remember, that just means 5x as much sanding.

[Bill Barou]

George,

Good news on the OW coring system. Mine works like a charm with similar learning curve to yours. If you haven't already checked it out www.woodworkingchannel.com has several videos on turning. One by David Lancaster updates the videos he did for Oneway on the coring system. A couple new tricks are included. Look under the video library, then at AAW. The other videos are good too!

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Very Nice George, shows that you don't need to get beat-up when coring bowls, thanks for showing

[Jim Kountz]

Now thats what Im talking about!!

[john taliaferro]

i did a bark edge, i used masking tape to hold the rib under the cutter. dont think i breathed for bout 10 min,but it worked. that wood is wet ,i turned a 18" then tried to clamp it to make a oval, going to steam.

[Reed Gray]

With the Oneway, you can take a flatter core by using the bigger blades, and there is some movement from side to side to change your entry angle. If you go as far as you can to the outside, the blade and support finger can bind in the cut as they made for a specific range of cuts.
robo hippy