Waterlox Alternative

[Josh Reid]

I haven't used Waterlox yet but from reading about it I feel it would be the perfect product for what I am looking for in a finish, durable and simple to apply/use and really makes the wood look good. However the sticker shock is turning my wife away from allowing me to use it. Is there a similar product that would yield similar results at a less expensive price tag or is that like having your cake and eating it too?

Josh

[Brian Kent]

Josh, I got some advice here for four good varnishes: Pratt & Lambert #38, or Cabot 8000 series (NON poly), Behlen's rock hard or Waterlox.

I remember reading that Pratt and Lambert #38 can be thinned to make it wipe-on varnish and end up being a lot cheaper than others. I ended up using Waterlox from an internet source but with shipping it was $35 / quart. On the good side, the finish for my coffee table was worth $35 in the long run, but I am not used to this cost level.

I have found Waterlox at Woodcraft and Behlen's rock hard at Rockler.

My local possible source for Pratt and Lambert #38 is closed whenever I call, but maybe you can find one of these at a cost that is palatable to you and your wife. If you do find reasonable online sources please post.

Brian

[Howard Acheson]

First question to ask is what do you mean by Waterlox? Waterlox is a brand name of a family of finishing products. The most often used is Waterlox Original Gloss or Satin. They also make a Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. They also make some marine products and some poly varnishes.

All of these products are oil based varnishes. The Original line is a varnish made with phenolic resin which gives it its hardness and tung oil which makes is somewhat more water resistant. Behlen Rockhard is also a varnish made with phenolic resin and linseed oil. Both products are very similar and very dark in color.

There are other non-poly varnish such as Pratt & Lamber #38, Cabot 8000 or Sherwin Williams. These varnishes are lighter in color but not quite as hard.

Which of these you use is dependent on the look you want and how much protection you think is necessary.

[Prashun Patel]

Waterlox is expensive, but I didn't regret it.

What are you making? The cheapest way to a *somewhat* comparable product is to make a wiping varnish out of Cabots alkyd varnish (which you can get at LWS).

FWIW, There's a great article in FWW this month that demystifies the diffs between brushing varnishes/wiping varnishes/oil varnish blends.

[Neal Clayton]

check with your local true value hardware store.

they carry waterlox, although not always in stock. if they don't have it in stock they can get it for you.

by going that route i got my last batch about 10 bucks a gallon cheaper.

[Josh Reid]

Howard - would be looking at the Satin or Original. NOt sure on which sheen I would want, not much on a high gloss type finish. I also want something that is going to more or less accentuate the wood and not muddy it up while offering good protection, which I was under the assumption the waterlox products did a good job at. When you say both products are dark what do you mean? They darken the wood?

Shawn- I am going to be making a bunch of stuff in the near future Coffee tables, end tables, nightstands, entertainment center and the list goes on and on. Most of it will be high use stuff where I need and want a good durable finish.

I don't really mind the price tag. I'm the type that would rather do it right then have to do something again cause I didn't do what was best the first time. Its convincing the LOML that the price is worth it. I have a few projects that are waiting to be finished and told what I wanted to use. She was like umm why is it so expensive can't you just go get some of that cheap stuff from lws. I don't care what it looks like just want it done.

[Greg Cuetara]

I hate to bring this into the argument but what is expensive? About 3 years ago I built a crib and changing table for my son and used waterlox as a finish. I think I spent about $300 - $400 in materials when all was said and done. I probably put in a hundred hours working on the projects...what is the cost of that... A quart of waterlox cost me about 30 bucks. Both pieces still look like new and I love the finish on the Cherry I used. At least to me it was well worth the 30 bucks to use a top quality finish after I spent quite a bit of time and money for the pieces.

How much are you spending on wood....on tools....on hardware....is it worth it to save a few bucks after you have spent hundreds? There are many different types of finishes out there which are cheaper...if you like them then go for it. Personally I have seen that waterlox works great...is easy to put on and provides great protection.

Take a step back and look at everything for the project you are working on and put the cost of the waterlox or your finish into perspective. You probably will not use a whole quart for a single project therefore it can be spread out over a few projects to reduce to overall cost per piece you build.

Greg

[Scott Holmes]

You get what you pay for...

Tung oil is expensive, as is the phenolic resin.
Linseed oil is cheap, as is urethane resin.

Guess why they push poly... PROFIT

[Brian Kent]

Waterlox is expensive, but I didn't regret it.

What are you making? The cheapest way to a *somewhat* comparable product is to make a wiping varnish out of Cabots alkyd varnish (which you can get at LWS).

FWIW, There's a great article in FWW this month that demystifies the diffs between brushing varnishes/wiping varnishes/oil varnish blends.

Shawn - is LWS "Lowes"? I have found the Cabot line in Southern California Lowes, but not the 8000 or anything not marked "Poly". I'm fine with wipe-on poly for a lot of uses, but still trying to find sources for Cabot 8000 and Pratt & Lambert #38.

[Prashun Patel]

Yup, LWS=Lowes. All the Lowes around me carry Cabot varnish (red can) and the Cabot Spar (green can) - in all three sheens, respectively.

[Howard Acheson]

>> When you say both products are dark what do you mean? They darken the wood?

Because Waterlox uses a phenolic resin, the resulting varnish is quite amber brown in color. If you used it on a light colored wood, you would distinctly see the darker color. It would be as if you had applied a light stain. Varnish made with alkyd resin is a lot lighter in color.

The Waterlox, while darker, will still be very clear and will do a good job "popping" the grain.

As always, test your finishing plans out on scrap or in an inconspicuous spot.