What chain saw to buy?

[Matt Ranum]

One thing with chainsaw opinions its always a Ford vs Chevy debate. We've used a lot of different saws and you will always find one by any manufacturer thats just a pile of crap. It happens. If you stick with a name brand i.e. Husky, Stihl, Johnsered, or Echo odds are your gonna be happy with it. Last year when shopping for new saws again, we do this every couple years, I thought we would try Echo since they redesigned them. I've been very impressed and its the easiest on gas we use.

A word of caution...
Whatever you buy, use only that brand of oil in the mix, meaning if you buy a Husky use only Husky oil while its under warranty. Dealers/service centers are required to do a wick test of the gas to check the color of the 2 cycle oil that was used. If it isn't theirs they can and most likely will void your warranty. I have heard this from several dealers.

Compare warranties. Best warranty I know of is Echo, 5 years, 1 year if used commercially.

[John Keeton]

I'm not really certain on the size, but I would imagine that most of the trees I would be dealing with would be less than 24" with the occasional tree that's between 24-36 inches.

Stephen, you have received some very good suggestions on various brands of saws. Many that have responded use chainsaws on a regular basis. And, many of those folks often cut wood wider than the length of their bar, which requires burying the nose of the saw in the cut.

For most, that is an extremely dangerous situation, particularly if wood comes in contact with the upper portion of the nose. Kickback will occur quickly and be difficult to control.

Most of the suggestions have involved bars shorter than 24 - 36" - the range you indicate a need for. I would just ask that you realize the limitations of any saw you get. While I could cut a trunk nearly twice as wide as the bar length on my Farm Boss, that doesn't mean I should do it. It is a dangerous move, and even a very experienced chainsaw user can have kickback.

I think most would agree that it is wise to avoid burying the nose in the work, so your max cut is or should be limited by the bar length of the saw.

[Alex Leslie]

I have two Huskys and am very happy with them. Good advice so far, but I might add:

• Never use gas with ethanol in any small engine,
• Never, never, never use outboard motor two-cycle oil in a chainsaw!
• When you are not going to use your saw for a period of time, dump out the gas and run it dry. This will keep your carb clean.
• A sharp chain is like extra horsepower - never let it touch the dirt.

[Bob Smalser]

...many of those folks often cut wood wider than the length of their bar, which requires burying the nose of the saw in the cut.

For most, that is an extremely dangerous situation....

I think most would agree that it is wise to avoid burying the nose in the work, so your max cut is or should be limited by the bar length of the saw.

Respectfully, I have to disagree.



Y'all are either gonna learn how to use the saw and all its capabilities safely, or you're not and probably shouldn't own one at all. The in-betweens will get you hurt out there in the dark rain under headlights trying to clear storm damage so your elderly neighbor can get to the doctor and all the pros are tied up with powerline repairs.

Cutting logs deeper than bars is a common task in most parts of the country, and you should master keeping the nose higher than the powerhead as a matter of habit. Do you have to learn to make the plunge cuts professional fallers use to test for trunk rot? No, but the bar control techniques required for deep logs are the safest method to cut any log, and if plastic falling wedges and falling axe to drive them with aren't in your emergency kit, they should be. Storm-fallen trunks can be hard to read, and mastering those will minimize the chances of getting your bar helplessly stuck with you the only saw clearing the road.



It's touching the the upper quarter of the bar nose to the log that causes kickbacks. Avoid leading with the nose. When bucking a log from top to bottom, keep the nose slightly higher than the powerhead all the way through the cut. When bucking a log from bottom to top, keep the nose slightly beneath the powerhead.

If there is any doubt about the kerf pinching the bar, once the bar is sufficiently deep drive a wedge behind the bar so the saw can be freed if the log moves the wrong way. Once the saw if free, resume the cut from the opposite side of the log.

A plunge cut is made beginning with the lower part of the lower half of the bar nose until it's firmly captured a few inches deep in solid wood then gradually rolling the nose to the upper part of the nose's lower half and pushing the saw in like a sword.

[John Keeton]

Bob, of course you are correct, and obviously have a great deal of experience in this area. My concern is that the OP has asked about buying his first chain saw to cut downed trees from 24 - 36". It just seems unwise for someone with no experience to attempt that type of cut. The learning curve on a kickback with a chainsaw at full throttle is pretty short.

When the risk of serious injury is high, I would err on the conservative side. It just doesn't seem worth it to me. Obviously, others may disagree. We are talking about getting wood to enjoy a hobby here, not embarking on a new livelihood of felling large trees.

I just want a safe and enjoyable hobby for all. The biggest cause of chainsaw injury is mishandling by the operator. Again, the OP apparently has no experience.

[Bob Smalser]

.... The biggest cause of chainsaw injury is mishandling by the operator.

I've never been impressed with the safety and training publications and gizmos available. Most seem more designed to prevent lawsuits against the saw manufacturer than protect the average user by training him thoroughly.

From my observations, kickbacks generally don't occur cutting what the operator intended to cut. They occur when the bar nose contacts a limb or brush the operator didn't notice or didn't think necessary to clear from the sawing area as a first step. Often compounded by poor footing and an awkward body position because he didn't think to clear those areas either. Hence my comments about haste and storm damage at night.

Notice my falling pics look like they were taken in a groomed park....even those made in the deep woods. The trash and slash around the work area is removed to protect the faller from the saw as well as provide a clean escape from a barberchairing tree.

So I'm afraid it's all self-training. Obviously one crawls before one walks and runs, or Darwin takes over to limit perpetuating those genes. I haven't even touched on the necessity or corked boots for more difficult jobs.

[Dave Lehnert]

A word of caution...
Whatever you buy, use only that brand of oil in the mix, meaning if you buy a Husky use only Husky oil while its under warranty. Dealers/service centers are required to do a wick test of the gas to check the color of the 2 cycle oil that was used. If it isn't theirs they can and most likely will void your warranty. I have heard this from several dealers.

If a manufacture requires you to use their own brand product under warranty they must provide it for free. It's called the the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.

"Tie-In Sales" Provisions
Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a remedy under the warranty.

[Matt Ranum]

If a manufacture requires you to use their own brand product under warranty they must provide it for free. It's called the the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.

"Tie-In Sales" Provisions
Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a remedy under the warranty.

I stand corrected, just going by what I was told.

It makes me wonder though if I made engines and someone went to one of my dealers with spun bearings on the crankshaft from running an oil that I deemed insufficient......would I have to honor a warranty?

I'm not trying to debate an issue here just looking for an opinion as to how a company could reject a warranty issue.

[Dave Lehnert]

I stand corrected, just going by what I was told.

It makes me wonder though if I made engines and someone went to one of my dealers with spun bearings on the crankshaft from running an oil that I deemed insufficient......would I have to honor a warranty?

I'm not trying to debate an issue here just looking for an opinion as to how a company could reject a warranty issue.

The key would be "insufficient oil" Just as long the customer used an oil up to the manufacture standard (any brand) you would have to honer the warranty.

[william scott]

They occur when the bar nose contacts a limb or brush the operator didn't notice or didn't think necessary to clear from the sawing area as a first step. Often compounded by poor footing and an awkward body position because he didn't think to clear those areas either. Hence my comments about haste and storm damage at night.

You hit the nail on the head, Bob. Haste will kill you when you are falling and/or bucking timber. Trees get hung up with tension on 'em, but they can look safe at first glance. You cut into it and about half way through, the tension snaps the log and the log flings itself out into you!

You always have to take the time and walk the cutting area. Get the brush out of the way and make sure you have an escape route that's clear, especially if you are falling. Really inspect any downed trees and limbs for tension. Always make sure you have at least an Ax and falling wedges. I also like to have a crosscut saw along. Take your time, you can get hurt in a hurry.

[Mike Cruz]

Like this one?

http://martinsburg.craigslist.org/tls/1390273557.html

[Brian Brightwell]

Well, there is a lot to learn about chainsaws. You don't have to know it all to use one safely, just know your limitations. Some of these replies are good some are crap.
I suggest you go to " ArboristSite.com > Equipment ForumsYou can search this topic to death.
I have to laugh when someone says a Stilh FarmBoss is great. A statement like that makes you realize they know little about chainsaws.

[Dan Ewalt]

Well, there is a lot to learn about chainsaws. You don't have to know it all to use one safely, just know your limitations. Some of these replies are good some are crap.
I suggest you go to " ArboristSite.com > Equipment ForumsYou can search this topic to death.
I have to laugh when someone says a Stilh FarmBoss is great. A statement like that makes you realize they know little about chainsaws.

Yeah like that one.

Please enlighten me as to why the MS290 is such a bad saw??????

Also please enlighten me as to what far better saw you have in the $350 price range????

[Mike Cruz]

Dan, I second that!

Brian, the saw runs extremely smooth and fast, is easy on the user, and lasts forever. What is wrong with that?

If by saying that it shows how little a person knows about chain saws you mean that these folks (me included) know nothing about the internal workings of the saw...maybe you are right. I don't. I understand the general mechanics of a chainsaw. I know how to fill it with gas, add oil, and change the chain. I know to clean the saw of any gunked up oil/chips with each chain change. I know to bring it in to get serviced when needed. I don't enjoy sharpening the chains. So I own 4 for each of my saws. When 3 chains for a particular saw are dull, I bring them in to get professionally sharpened.

I don't know how to "fix" it (any chainsaw) when it is broken. But to clarify this, I know the same level of care/maintenance for my truck, ATV, tractor, boat, tailers, and shop equipment. To claim that I don't know anything about them is ignorant.

You may be a chainsaw maven/guru/snob, and I can appreciate that. But don't stick up your nose and point fingers at others who are not. The OP was asking about a chainsaw to cut some wood for turning. I said it before, I'll say it again. He would do JUST FINE with a Poulan. Is Poulan a great saw? No, but for the little he'd us it, it would do EXACTLY what he would ask of it.

This person asked the equivelant of "I need a car...about a 15 minute drive once a week, anyone have a suggestion?" The answer is that anything from a Prius to a Hummer to a Ferrari would work. Don't be a Ferrari snob and call the Prius lovers unknowledgable about cars. State your opinion objectively and leave out the accusations.

[Jerry Olexa]

My reco: STIHL. I'm very happy with both of mine (as is my neighbor)