Ceramic glaze test - it's NOT cermark!

[Jack Harper]

I do not know if this information will help those experimenting, but here is my understanding of the current Atomic Art products. If I am understanding this correctly, the Atomic Arts folks are currently licensing and/or buying the "BASE" glaze from Ferro. From here they are adding their own pigments to gain a higher level of color than what Ferro was able to provide from the original colors for stone/glass and so forth. This would further support that the key is all in the base glaze, to bond the pigments of choice. But like I said, this is all just my interpretation and is in no way meant to be a statement of fact.

[Martin Boekers]

Just a thought if anyone has a local glass studio close it might be worth a visit to See how they achieve colors at what temperature and density of the "frit" they use for different applications.

Also Blown glass places are pretty cool to visit!


Marty

[Frank Corker]

I was under the impression (although I don't do impressions...it's a figure of speech) that this stuff was actually photo sensitive. Possibly something like silver nitrate in the mix might be useful.

[Darren Null]

The first problem is getting a clear glaze that will melt at the sort of temperatures we can hit with our lasers.

I've found this place that has a temperature guide, plus software (with a free trial) that helps analyse glaze recipes.
http://digitalfire.com/4sight/temperatures/index.html

Also these:
http://seco.glendale.edu/ceramics/glazecomposition.html
http://www.potters.org/subject70906.htm

[Norberto Coutinho]

I was under the impression (although I don't do impressions...it's a figure of speech) that this stuff was actually photo sensitive. Possibly something like silver nitrate in the mix might be useful.

Hello ... my name is Norberto and I live in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. My english is not good, so do a effort do understand me. Can I put here a link from another website ( cnczone.com ) here? This will not be against this forum rules? I think that link will help a little with this post. Again, sorry for my bad english.
Norberto

[Darren Null]

Heves, eh?

http://netic.com.ar/laserinks/products.htm
or
http://www.tecnocorte.net/quimico.htm
in my case. Prices asked. Will report back with results.

[John Barton]

there was a system that could lay down the compound right before the laser fired?

So if you had a tank hooked up to to a vat of colors like a printer and the system would know just which mix to make to spray on just before the laser heated it up then it should work pretty much like a printer.

If you're up for inventing that I'd also like one of those cool new 3-d modelers as well. Or just skip both of them and send me the replicator from Star Trek.

:-)

[Dan Hintz]

Aw, Jack... you had to go and ruin one of my talking points about why this isn't as difficult a job as people first make it out to be Granted, it's not something the complete layman would be able to accomplish without a boatload of research, but someone a bit more skilled in the art (or knows where to look and has a background in materials, chemistry, etc. <cough cough> ) won't have nearly the same difficulties.




Martin, agreed! Glass houses are slick, and I enjoyed watching them make it at the local Renaissance Festival earlier this month.



Norberto, direct links to other forums are not allowed by forum rules, but it may be acceptable to post a link with the "www." removed so it is not a hotlink. I'm curious to know what you found, as i haven't logged onto CNCZone for several months now.

[Norberto Coutinho]

Well, it is easy to find .... do a searche for Brasso in that site... in the Laser Engraver and Cut Machine area you can find a member named Huahahahahaha .... read the posts named "Need to engrave Stainless Tubing...Sample pic in post" and "Marking Stainless using CO2 laser 60 Watt". I hope that this will help you and anothers members here. Norberto

[Darren Null]

Brasso & clay
Brasso & ferric chloride

I wasn't that impressed with the pics. Yep, there was a mark on stainless steel. I want a nice mark though. Dead fussy, me.

Thanks for the info Norberto

[Dan Hintz]

Okay, yeah, I've seen those posts before... I wasn't overly impressed, either, but at least he's thinking outside of the box.

[James Stokes]

I had a customer tell me for the paint changing colors on cars a glass powder was added in with the paint and that was what caused the colors to change. He told me he would bring me some to play with but never did.

[Dan Hintz]

I had a customer tell me for the paint changing colors on cars a glass powder was added in with the paint and that was what caused the colors to change.

It's not cheap, but you can pick some up without any problem... House Of Kolors has been making automotive paints for quite a number of years and is probably the best known in the industry for custom work.
http://www.houseofkolor.com/
Look for their Kameleon Opals, Kameleon Pearls, and Kolor shift Flakes... the less expensive types go for around $40 for 3 ounces, with the more expensive types going for upwards of $300.

Other people make similar stuff, and for cheaper, but the quality of HOK's stuff is worth it when you're doing an important job.

[Tim Wooldridge]

Yea I have no idea about the marks on metal but will talk to a few smart friends I know.

[Alexander Stein]

I am not sure a Glass blowing shop will guide you in the right direction for understanding the effects of colored glass frits on a different substrate. Glass frits come in a variety of sizes divided by sifting the glass through different sized screens.

A glass artist wanting a speckled pattern on their piece will roll their red-hot glass blob on a table with chunkier frit randomly scattered about. After the artist gather's the cold frit with the hot glass they tend to re-melt the cold frit into the hot glob leaving you with scattered dots throughout.

If you were looking to completely coat the "hot-blob" with a solid color, a much finer frit is used, much like a powder, and the gathering process from hot blob to frit is repeated untill you reach your desired color.

That being said, glass-frit will only bond to glass permently when the temp of the frit matches the temp of the "blob" which is fusing the two glass types into one.

If I were to try to bond glass frit to a substrate I would be concerned about the temp of the substrate. if the substrate is cold, and the glass frit is hot, then the frit will not adhere...


just a thought...