Glass cutting problems

[Paul Atkins]

Glass pliers are a good tool - if they are used right. The sharp wheel and a determined cut are the most important though. Just like the skew - do it or don't.

[Neal Clayton]

I picked up some glass pliers at Harbor Freight the other day like the ones in the pic below. Got them because they were only $3. Have no idea if they work. Never used them yet.

pliers are good for trimming, so worth having. if you get an unclean break using the "table edge slam" method you can trim it up with the pliers. also if you need to cut small pieces, for instance with stained glass, breaking with the pliers is the only way, and in that case it's a necessary tool.

Thanks for all the tips. The glass I'm using is from a friend that buys low-cost picture frames from x-Mart for her oil paintings and doesn't need the glass, so it shouldn't be anything special. I've practice a fair amount with all my pieces that don't turn out using the table break method, the two hands method, score the line once, etc. with the same basic result. I'll look at getting another/different cutter. The one I have is new from the Borg and just seems to roll along the surface, hence very little cutting action.

from my experience with glazing windows, i struggled with a wheel cutter when i started learning the technique too. the wheel cutters work fine if you have good technique as far as pressure and stability of your hand and everything else. that's difficult to get right when you first start cutting glass, though.

the diamond tip cutters have much more leeway with pressure and how steady your hand is. therefore they're easier to learn with. if you cut enough glass to get proficient with the diamond tipped cutter, you can probably go back to the wheel as a backup and not have any trouble, but the diamond tip cutter will save you a trashcan full of poorly cut glass in the meantime .

[Jim Sears]

I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not, but I always spray a fine mist of window cleaner on the glass before I score it. Seems to work for me.

[Perry Holbrook]

Looks like we're having a tutorial on glass cutting going here. The post above reminded me of another tip. The glass needs to be cleaned of dust, etc before cutting. If there is dust along the score line, it actually raises the cutter wheel off the glass in that spot, which creates a gap in the score, which can cause a poor break out.

Cutting glass really isn't has hard as it my seem. Actually it is quite easy. There is just a learning curve involved.

Perry

[Dick Strauss]

You need to start with a flat surface that fully supports the glass over the length of the score. Score the glass once (don't go back) starting as close to the edge as possible using a straight-edge. Use your off-thumb to keep the wheel from rolling off the edge and your off-fingers to hold the straight-edge while making the score. Stop just before you go off the far edge (otherwise you might crack off the far corner). You should hear a slight scratching noise as you score if the pressure is right. You can score in either direction but you do need plenty of pressure (I push cut because I feel I can keep better pressure when working with extra thick 1/4" plate or stained glass). Keep your cutter under your shoulder (if possible) to keep good downward pressure. If you end up with a fine scratch across the piece, the breaking should go pretty smoothly. If you end up with glass dust along the crack, you used too much pressure.

Don't use the ball end or pliers to finish the break...you don't need them!

Since you are a novice, score one line and break the glass. Score another line and break the glass. Definitely don't score two lines that cross over each other as a novice! Glass tends to break in a straight line but will wander if you give it an alternative path.

A good pistol grip cutter with a carbide wheel helps to get pressure down to the glass. The cheap old cutters make it harder to cut glass efficiently IMO.

You can use 1/2 veg oil with 1/2 kerosene as to lube your wheel. If you use straight veg oil for lube, make sure you clean the wheel when you are done, otherwise it will be gummed up the next time you need to use it.

FYI-I've cut 1000+ ft of 1/4" plate and 1/8"+/- stained glass.

If you have any more questions or find something I wrote confusing, please feel free to PM me.

Good luck,
Dick

[Eric Robert]

yeah, I used to have problems cutting glass also. Much what other people have said, just make sure its a smooth even cut. Doesn't always require alot of force to say. I recommend to try not making any pauses while cutting. Have a nice consistent motion and then lightly tap. I can't remember what the link was, but there was a great tutorial on youtube.

[Mark Patoka]

Just an update - I was at Michael's craft store and found the Logan glass and mat cutting system they have there. I bought the glass cutter and Adapt-A-Ruler using their 50% off coupons.

Tried it out and the very first cut broke so easily and cleanly I couldn't believe it. I had my 6 panes cut in no time. Apparently the cheap cutter from the Borg was faulty from Day 1.

The cutter cost $30, $15 with the coupon, and I recommend it.

[Eric Robert]

Looks good, I think I am going to have to give this a try to cut up my glass for my etching projects. Lets be sure it lasts long thought. Either way the blade or roller is probably very cheap to replace. Thanks for letting me know about this.

Just an update - I was at Michael's craft store and found the Logan glass and mat cutting system they have there. I bought the glass cutter and Adapt-A-Ruler using their 50% off coupons.

Tried it out and the very first cut broke so easily and cleanly I couldn't believe it. I had my 6 panes cut in no time. Apparently the cheap cutter from the Borg was faulty from Day 1.

The cutter cost $30, $15 with the coupon, and I recommend it.