How high should it sit?

[Pat Salter]

I've just started turning and don't have too much experience (yet). I have a Delta lathe that I fiddle with at work and an old Yates American at home. I've noticed that if I work for long my back starts to ache. So I guess my question is:
can you/should you adjust the height of the lathe? either build a platform for the lathe or the worker depending on his/her height? What should you go by? It seems like I saw somewhere that the center of the lathe should be about your elbow height, does that make sense? I'm 6'2" tall and both lathes seem short to me.

[Jim Ketron]

You are right!!
elbow hight is where it should be.
Jim

[Pat Salter]

wow, that's the first time this week i've been right! well that means I need to raise that Yates up about 5 in. I'm glad I hadn't anchored it down yet

[Keel McDonald]

Comfort is definitely a priority. I agree that you should adjust the height, in this case, of the lathe...seeing as how you can't very easily lower the floor. Many projects require standing at the lathe for hours. You certainly want to be comfortable. This is one time that I'm glad I'm not 6'2". My lathe hits me just right. Good luck.

[Jim Becker]

Just as an addendum...the best "starting point" for height is usually even with your elbow when you are standing straight and have your arm bent. (You really need a second person to measure this accurately) But depending on the type of turning you generally do, higher or lower may be more comfortable. I went a little higher since this is more comfortable for me when I'm hollowing. Sometimes just an inch can make a big difference. So don'[t be afraid to make changes over time.

[Keith Cope]

That backache may be exacerbated by standing for long periods directly on concrete, as well. I put some cushy mats in my shop and found that it helps dramatically.

[Alan Ryalls]

hi,don"t forget to allow for a duck board or some form of mat to cushion/insulate from those cold concrete floors
regards alan.................

[Carole Valentine]

You're right about the mats! I got one of those 2x5 anti-fatigue mats that Woodcraft had on sale and it has made all the difference in the world! Gonna try to get a cople more.

[Robert Grady]

I was curious about this myself. When you say have the lathe at elbow height, are you talking about the center of the spinny part or the bed of the lathe?

[Joe Melton]

According to the text that accompanied an article on lathe rating in a recent woodworkers' magazine , the center of the spindle should be one inch above the line from the user's elbow parallel to the floor. I don't know what the difference would be between this height and an inch lower.

The article also mentioned that if the lathe needs to be raised, the recommendation is to put plywood boards between the lathe and the stand. If you raise the stand itself, you raise the center of gravity of the lathe/stand, and that makes the setup less stable.
Joe

[Bill Grumbine]

According to the text that accompanied an article on lathe rating in a recent woodworkers' magazine , the center of the spindle should be one inch above the line from the user's elbow parallel to the floor. I don't know what the difference would be between this height and an inch lower.

The article also mentioned that if the lathe needs to be raised, the recommendation is to put plywood boards between the lathe and the stand. If you raise the stand itself, you raise the center of gravity of the lathe/stand, and that makes the setup less stable.
Joe

Hi Joe

I don't read most of the mags, so I have no idea who wrote this or what his or her experience is, but I would not recommend this course of action. I guess it would work if the lathe is already on a wooden stand, but raising the lathe is an opportunity to increase the stability of the machine rather than decrease it, if done properly. Stuffing plywood between a lathe and its stand is going to contribute to flex and bounce, not decrease it. Plywood is a nice stable medium for cabinet sides and paint, but it isn't a good choice for keeping lathes from bouncing around.

All my lathes need to be raised significantly, as I am 6' 2". My current three have been raised as follows:

The Poolewood had a stand built to fit me, following their A frame design. The extra inches in height added to the width of the base as well, making it an exceptionally stable stand, so much so, that I recommend a metal A frame for anyone building their own.

My Vicmarc mini has a wooden stand built for comfort, convenience, and portability more so than stability. It was designed by me with a telescoping stand to accomodate students of different heights, especially children. It has turned out to be very stable in use, and has held up when blocks of wood pushing the very limits of the lathe have been turned.

My newest lathe, my Mini Max copy machine, is going to be raised - today in fact - by virtue of bolting some wheels to the bottom, bringing it up six inches. The footprint will remain the same, although I do not see that as a problem since this machine is going to be confined to spindle work. Yes it is top heavy, but it was that way before I started. I just have to be careful not to yank it sideways while pulling it about the shop.

As far as the 1" above elbow height is concerned, that is not gospel. Elbow height is the guideline, but each individual needs to adjust it from there, as Jim mentions. I like my lathes to be right at elbow height, but I can turn within a range of heights for short periods of time. Being able to stand comfortably at the lathe is essential to good work and safety. A person's work will improve by a quantum leap just by being more comfortable standing, and their safety is also increased by virtue of being more alert and relaxed. Hunching over the machine makes for tension and pain, and that is no fun at all.

Bill

[Jerry Crawford]

I wholeheartedly agree with the gent's who promote fatigue pad's on concrete floors. I have one in front of every tool where I spend more than a couple of moments. But bench height is another issue.

I build flintlock's and have created a vise for that task which is mounted to a pretty high work bench. My bench is 37" high and when I have a gun stock in my vise it's 46". That, for me, is a comfortable working height and keeps the spot of general focus within a comfortable distance so I can see what I'm doing. Also, I don't have to bend over to see what I'm doing. However, there are some shortcomings. When I'm doing another job at my bench (my recent saw building project) handling some other tool is a problem. Pushing a plane at that height is definitely troublesome but doable in the short term for small jobs.

And, FWIW, the spindle on my Atlas 12 X 24 machinist lathe is 50" from the floor. When I built the cabinet for it several years ago I deliberately made it that height so I could work and see comfortably standing up.

My point here is, purists notwithstanding, a bench is simply another tool in my shop and as such it has to be tuned for me to do my work. I offer the suggestion that you adjust your lathe to whatever is most comfortable for you to work at.

[Pat Salter]

Well thanks for all the "food for thought"/ideas folks, now to do some fine tuning....I had a co-worker measure my elbow and it's 47" from the floor. My home lathe centers at 42" so I'm going to raise it 5" (give or take a millimeter ). What I was thinking of doing was using 4X4's with two layers of 3/4" plywood under the base with bolts through the lathe base and the wood into lead anchors in the concrete floor. But with Bill's ideas concerning plywood I'm wondering if MDF wouldn't be better? What do you guys think of that? Naturally the MDF would be on top in case there's a water spill, etc.
As far as mats are concerned....I have a couple of pieces of carpet I was going to use and then I thought of what a lathe does , ok, I'll get the rubber ones
Thanks again guys.

[Tom Morton]

A source for rubber floor mats is Sam's Club at least the one in Bradenton, FL had them on Dec 20th. These are designed for childrens playroom, interlock together, various colors on one side-decorator black on the other, may be doubled or tripled, 2 feet square each. One package covers 33 sq ft and costs $16.

HTH

[Pat Salter]

Thanks Tom. How far is that from San Diego, ca.? Just kidding. By the by, I did raise it and it's GREAT! Now I'll just get some pads, probably after the first of the year. Thanks everyone.