Anyone have experience with Dricore flooring for the garage floor ?

[JIM HERNANDEZ]

I am considering laying down a Dricore floor over my workshop's concrete floor. It seems like it would be easier to walk on, warmer and just look nicer than the bare concrete I currently have. Has anyone used this on their garage floor? Any input on whether you are happy with it, how the install went, did you anchor the perimeter, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Jim

[Bruce Page]

You can find a thread on it. gardenweb.com
sounds interesting.

[Michael Heffernan]

I put Dri-Core in my basement, over a concrete slab. I was finishing the basement, and applied a pre-finished bamboo floating floor over it. It is a great sub-floor, easy to install, creates a vapor barrier and allows air movement between it and the concrete.
I think it is a great application for a garage workshop. If you have an uneven slab, make sure you get plenty of their shims to fill in low spots.
I wouldn't anchor it if you don't have to. Just let it float. I let mine float.
I suggest that you put a sacrificial 3/8" or 1/2" plywood layer on top of the Dri-Core. It is waferboard and prone to gouging and chipping out, especially if you are moving machinery around a lot. Countersink the screws into the ply, using screws short enough so that they don't penetrate the plastic waffle panel on the bottom of the Dri-Core.
Good luck. Let us know what you decide to do.

[Jim Becker]

There was just an article about using Dricore for a comfortable shop floor in Woodshop News. If I had the headroom (and the money) I wouldn't hesitate to use it for this purpose.

[Philip Johnson]

I used it in my basement and am very happy with the results. You don't know your on concrete. I agree with Michael I would consider something over the top of it. I let it float and once its all down it doesn't move.

Phil

[George Bregar]

Dricore is fine stuff from all those that I have read here and know personally who have used it. Matter of fact they chimed in my thread about an alternative solution that I'll offer here. I am converting a three car garage into a workshop, and it's floor time. The shop is Northern WI, and the slab is cold in the winter, and sweats in the summer. And is always hard on the knees and the back so I decided to look at alternatives to simply painting and to put a floor in.

I looked at dri-core and was turned off by the cost. $5.50-$6 for a 2'x2' piece...$1.38 to $1.50/sf. You also have to make sure the floor is pretty flat, or you need to shim tiles to make it so...extra cost. I also think there could be an issue with moisture between all those 2x2 pieces. Additional you have to lay 1/4" plywood over it for many flooring products like hardwood installation. So you are over $2/sf before you put your final floor on.

I decided to use a product called Delta-FL. http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca...roducts/fl.php Works like dri-core in that it is dimpled and provides a moisture barrier and thermal break. Difference is that it rolls out and ultimately provides a single moisture barrier versus lots of 2x2 ones. I bought it in 42" x 30' rolls, and it came with the tape to affix one 42" section to the next. Cost for the 105 sf roll is $40. So $.38/sf. My Lowes had it on clearance for $9

Floating laminate or engineered floors can be laid right on it. So you are saving a $1.50 over the dri-core for IMO a better moisture barrier and easier installation.

Other floors require an 3/4 OSB or plywood subfloor first. 3/4" OSB is $11 for a 4x8 sheet. This subfloors requires it to be "tapconned" to the slab. So your cost now is an additional $.40/sf...about $.78/sf. half the cost of the dri-core.

I will be installing this system over the New Year weekend, I will make a thread on it for all that may be interested.

[Don Bullock]

...
I decided to use a product called Delta-FL. http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca...roducts/fl.php ...
I will be installing this system over the New Year weekend, I will make a thread on it for all that may be interested.

That looks like a great product George. I was thinking of putting a section of laminate flooring under my work bench. It looks like the Delta flooring would be perfect under it. I'll be looking forward to your report.

[Darren Almeida]

I looked for the Delta-FL at my local Lowes, but they do not carry it.

My shop is 12x32 and I am thinking about putting down pressure treated 2x4 sleepers (wide side down) 12" on center and "tapconning" them down to the concrete. I'll put 1 1/2" rigid insulation between the 2x4's. Then I'll put 3/4" advantech plywood down and screw or nail (nail gun with 2" ring shank nails would be a lot faster) the plywood to the PT sleepers.

The 1 1/2" height won't allow me to run dust collection under the floor, but I could run power under it.

Price will be on par with the dri-core but I think it will provide a better floor. I am leary of all the seams that the 2'x2' dricore would have. Although I guess I could use liquid nails on the dricore tongue + groove joints.

Dri-core calls for 1/4" gap around the room. I guess I should do the same for my PT / plywood combo, although I'm thinking 3/8" would be more like it (although I can already see me losing drill bits down the gap...)

I'm not psyched about the look of the plywood floor, but should certainly be better than concrete. I'd like to put down 2x6 or 2x8 planks over the PT sleepers but I think the floor would become a warped mess over time and I'll never be able to get anything level on it.

Thoughts? Comments?

Thanks

- d

[George Bregar]

That looks like a great product George. I was thinking of putting a section of laminate flooring under my work bench. It looks like the Delta flooring would be perfect under it. I'll be looking forward to your report.

I'll have some extra and would be happy to send you it...doesn't sound like you need much. Should have 3 1/2' x 30" give or take...

[George Bregar]

I looked for the Delta-FL at my local Lowes, but they do not carry it.

My shop is 12x32 and I am thinking about putting down pressure treated 2x4 sleepers (wide side down) 12" on center and "tapconning" them down to the concrete. I'll put 1 1/2" rigid insulation between the 2x4's. Then I'll put 3/4" advantech plywood down and screw or nail (nail gun with 2" ring shank nails would be a lot faster) the plywood to the PT sleepers.

The 1 1/2" height won't allow me to run dust collection under the floor, but I could run power under it.

Price will be on par with the dri-core but I think it will provide a better floor. I am leary of all the seams that the 2'x2' dricore would have. Although I guess I could use liquid nails on the dricore tongue + groove joints.

Dri-core calls for 1/4" gap around the room. I guess I should do the same for my PT / plywood combo, although I'm thinking 3/8" would be more like it (although I can already see me losing drill bits down the gap...)

I'm not psyched about the look of the plywood floor, but should certainly be better than concrete. I'd like to put down 2x6 or 2x8 planks over the PT sleepers but I think the floor would become a warped mess over time and I'll never be able to get anything level on it.

Thoughts? Comments?

Thanks

- d

Fron their website: "DELTA® FL can be special ordered at your local Lowe's store. Special order number is 132387."

[Jeff Nolan]

I've used both Dricore and Delta-FL. Both are acceptable for subfloor over concrete but Delta-FL is substantially less expensive than Dricore and because you lay down full size 4x8 OSB sheets on top of it you have fewer seams than Dricore.

Delta-FL is sold through bigger network of distributors than Dricore, which means you can usually find a local source that has it in stock. Use their website to find a distributor.

[JIM HERNANDEZ]

Thanks everyone for the great advice !

Jim

[Jim Foster]

This will work fine; at least so far in my converted garage. However; garage floors can taper as much as 2" or so front to back. (ou may be working on a already flat floor, but if your not...) I would suggest getting some kind of level line around the walls and maybe do a lot of shimming and starting with 1/2", 3/4" or 4/4" stock at the high side if necessary. My conversion was a garage to indoor space and this is what we did.

You may also find it's easier and a lot cheaper, just to rip the 2x4 stock to the required height and lay down 1.5" wide strips as opposed to using the wide side down. 1/3 the material usage.

I looked for the Delta-FL at my local Lowes, but they do not carry it.

My shop is 12x32 and I am thinking about putting down pressure treated 2x4 sleepers (wide side down) 12" on center and "tapconning" them down to the concrete. I'll put 1 1/2" rigid insulation between the 2x4's. Then I'll put 3/4" advantech plywood down and screw or nail (nail gun with 2" ring shank nails would be a lot faster) the plywood to the PT sleepers.

The 1 1/2" height won't allow me to run dust collection under the floor, but I could run power under it.

Price will be on par with the dri-core but I think it will provide a better floor. I am leary of all the seams that the 2'x2' dricore would have. Although I guess I could use liquid nails on the dricore tongue + groove joints.

Dri-core calls for 1/4" gap around the room. I guess I should do the same for my PT / plywood combo, although I'm thinking 3/8" would be more like it (although I can already see me losing drill bits down the gap...)

I'm not psyched about the look of the plywood floor, but should certainly be better than concrete. I'd like to put down 2x6 or 2x8 planks over the PT sleepers but I think the floor would become a warped mess over time and I'll never be able to get anything level on it.

Thoughts? Comments?

Thanks

- d

[Joe Wiliams]

...
I decided to use a product called Delta-FL. http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca...roducts/fl.php Works like dri-core in that it is dimpled and provides a moisture barrier and thermal break. Difference is that it rolls out and ultimately provides a single moisture barrier versus lots of 2x2 ones. I bought it in 42" x 30' rolls, and it came with the tape to affix one 42" section to the next. Cost for the 105 sf roll is $40. So $.38/sf. My Lowes had it on clearance for $9
....

I was looking at the specs for this and noticed the compression strength is 5200 PSF. If I did the math correct (5200/144) it comes out to 36 PSI which may be fine for household use but how will some of the heavier machines work on it? I suppose whatever is laid over it will have an effect on final PSI...

[Darren Almeida]

This will work fine; at least so far in my converted garage. However; garage floors can taper as much as 2" or so front to back. (ou may be working on a already flat floor, but if your not...) I would suggest getting some kind of level line around the walls and maybe do a lot of shimming and starting with 1/2", 3/4" or 4/4" stock at the high side if necessary. My conversion was a garage to indoor space and this is what we did.

You may also find it's easier and a lot cheaper, just to rip the 2x4 stock to the required height and lay down 1.5" wide strips as opposed to using the wide side down. 1/3 the material usage.

Joe - thanks for the info. My floor is pretty level so I should be ok. My shop is on the back of the garage (bldg is 36'x32' and the shop is the back 12'x32'). The garge floor is sloped towards the doors, but the shop part of the slab is flat. Good point though, I will double check it.

Thanks

- darren