Joint Type-How to make? Help?

[Dan Racette]

I saw a planing video by Frank Klausz that I got from my local library. It was called "Hand tools, tuning and using chisels, planes and saws". I really enjoyed the video and learned a lot from it. I'm interested in learning how to do a special joint that Frank showed in the video. (I don't have it anymore, and I don't remember how to do it.) He mentioned that it was used in boatbuilding and I know that there are a few boatbuilders on here and a lot of knowledgeable people, so I thought I would ask.

He used it to make his stone pond watertight. It involve hammering wire into the middle (if memory serves me right) in a dadoed joint he did in Alaskan Cedar. The wire indent then swells after water hits it. (I think, again if memory serves). Anyone have any instruction? Pictures? Links? You Tubes? Explanation?

One of my big questions was, is it limited to softwood, due to the fibercrushability and cedars due to lack of pitch?

[Joel Goodman]

I saw Frank make a waterstone pond in a demo. He attached the bottom with this technique. The bottom was just nailed on with cut nails but with this wrinkle to make it waterproof. On the bottom of the sides (which had already been joined together with I think a sliding dovetail, cut by hand) he took a piece of wire from a gallon paint can (which he had straightened) and hammered it in to make a groove (I think till about half the diameter of the wire was buried in the wood). Then he planed until the groove just barely disappeared. The bottom was then nailed on. The concept is that the compressed fibers expand when the water hits them and form a sort of "bead of caulk" that keeps the box watertight. Hope my explanation is clear! If you try making the groove and planing it off and then wet the wood you can see the "bead" rise up. Pretty clever.

[jamie shard]

I took notes during the video... the wood was eastern white pine. The metal rod was hammered down flush with the wood surface, if I remember correctly.

[Dan Racette]

my memory is really failing or maybe I think I just have too many things on my mind. I am glad that it is pine. That makes me more hopeful of how I want to use it.

I wanted to know more about the joint and what the joint is called, so I'm hoping to get someone to chime in. I did start taking notes on the videos that I check out from the library, I just didn't take, or don't have, or can't find notes on that one.

Boy I could have sworn it was alaskan cedar, but now you say it, I think I too might recall pine.

D

[harry strasil]

another trick wet coopers used for the ends was to make a groove and put dry reed stems in the groove, they swell as well when water gets to them.

[James Taglienti]

that joint sounds brilliant

[harry strasil]

You don't need to drive something that deep into the joint all you need to do is make a slight depression by running a round edge over the center of the joint till it makes an impression in the wood then jointing it till the surface is almost flat. FWIW

Old time tank and water trough builders did it that way for many years, even on the staves for the sides of round tanks. A simple plane like tool with an edge fence and an ordinary fence staple driven in it works very well.

[Dan Racette]

You don't need to drive something that deep into the joint all you need to do is make a slight depression by running a round edge over the center of the joint till it makes an impression in the wood then jointing it till the surface is almost flat. FWIW

Old time tank and water trough builders did it that way for many years, even on the staves for the sides of round tanks. A simple plane like tool with an edge fence and an ordinary fence staple driven in it works very well.

Is it necessary to plane off a bit like was described?

[Bob Glenn]

Yes, after making the depression in the wood, plane down until you get close to the planing away the depression. Roy Underhill had a guy on a couple years ago that demonstrated this joint.

[harry strasil]

If you don't plane down the edges all the fibers will do when wet is go back to thier original shape, if you not going to plane it down to near the top of the compressed fibers, you might as well not bother with compressing them in the first place.

[Dan Racette]

If you don't plane down the edges all the fibers will do when wet is go back to thier original shape, if you not going to plane it down to near the top of the compressed fibers, you might as well not bother with compressing them in the first place.

Right! It would end up being like a steam dent repair, of course! Now it's making sense, the mechanics of the joint.

D

[harry strasil]

BINGO, and I just made 40 olde ladies Mad. LMAO

[Dan Racette]

BINGO, and I just made 40 olde ladies Mad. LMAO

LOL! My Mother is Law was one of them!