Here is a thread about it. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...overhead+guardOriginally Posted by Peter Aeschliman
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Here is a thread about it. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...overhead+guard
Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.
-Woody Allen-
Critiques on works posted are always welcome
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Sometimes we just need a little clarity. One of my favorite Far Side cartoons:Are your eyes that bad or do you need to identify drawer contents from 50 feet away?
Dan
Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.
-Woody Allen-
Critiques on works posted are always welcome
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Josh---It's pretty new, haven't had a chance to do much with it yet, got hijacked by the lathe over Christmas, lopped off part of a fingertip with a chisel which is just about healed up but still very sensitive. This outfeed table will be my first project with it.
Pros: The face is dead flat - dial indicator doesn't move when running along it - much flatter than the Unifence it replaced. I can set it for 1/8" and it will cut a strip .125". You can literally set it to rip to the thousandth of an inch. Handy for cutting splines, grooves, dados, etc.
I can rip up to 50" the way it is set up, rails starting at the table rather than the left extension wing, using the standard rail system.
It locks to the front and rear rails, so no deflection. I have the rear clamp set up with a cam lock, so it takes only seconds.
Positive locking for each 1/32", so if you set it for 9", it's always exactly 9". Good if you have to go back an cut another piece the same size as the last, so long as you know the measurement.
Cons: Positive locking for each 1/32". Sound familiar? This is a con if you are setting the fence to a part that you need that is not measured in 32nds. Say you want to cut a drawer face, and you don't measure it with a rule, but with a pencil mark from the opening itself, then want to set the fence to that mark. It may require fiddling with the fine adjust knob to match that, which is not as easy as moving and locking a standard fence. It can be done however, then reset the fine tuning to where it was before so it's zeroed out again.
To rip 50", you need 94" to the right of the blade. I have about two inches to spare, so no problem for me. That was dead space anyway for me.
It's a bit more of a hassle to remove than a standard fence, if you need to make wide crosscuts, but not bad, and it requires more room to store, as you have to remove the entire "T". No need to reset anything though, just as accurate when it goes back on.
It takes up more room on the extension table, not as convenient to put other stuff on the table. But then again, there isn't as much to clear off when you need to do that too.
The only con that might prove troublesome to me is the first one mentioned. I haven't run across that yet, but I suppose it could be a pain if you had to do it a lot. But then again, we're talking about splitting a 1/32", which is not a lot of real estate to niggle about in most situations.
I think that this is a pretty fair assessment of the Incra Fence. Another plus, their customer service is top notch. For better or for worse, I appreciate accuracy, and am put off by tools that can't deliver in that regard. This one delivers in spades. I hope I feel the same after a few projects using it.
Hope this has been helpful. I guess I pretty much hijacked my own thread here, or at least aided and abetted, but I find it frustrating when reading through a thread, see something interesting though maybe unrelated, only to find that further discussion goes to PM mode.
Dan
Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.
-Woody Allen-
Critiques on works posted are always welcome
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Dan, a little late seeing this thread, and from the looks of your setup this isn't going to help much. But, for what it is worth, this is my outfeed table.
The table itself is cobbled together with some plywood scraps, and the top is Lexan over a plywood base. It is slick, and nothing sticks to it with any tenacity, so it is easy to keep clean. Subs as a glue up area at times, and I try to cover it with newpaper or rosin paper - but, not always!
There are two roll out drawer units - one on either side. I can roll them out, and use for additional "counter top area" for finishing pieces, etc.
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Dan, I built this one out of a Fine Woodworking magazine. I believed they called it the ultimate outfeed table. MK
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Gary, you could do surgery in there it's so clean.
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Just a plain simple outfeed table. I use the butcher paper to protect the top when I am gluing up.
My oufeed table, in every shop I have ever had, always turns out to be my favorite work table/assembly table due to close proximity of table saw.
Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville
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Mine folds when I want it to, but nowadays I rarely fold it down. I store clamps under it for the most part. The 2' segment just behind the saw doesn't fold down, but I can remove it but unscrewing the two wing nuts. The 2" outboard segment folds down at 90 degrees.
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God, I was thinking the same thing !! LOLGary, you could do surgery in there it's so clean.
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Well guys, that photo was taken several years ago right after I rebuilt the shop from scratch.
I keep it clear and clean, but not as clean as the photo
Mine is a re-use of an older worktable that someone gave me once upon a time. Cut the legs down to height added a thicker top (scrap PB from some demo work) and routed clearance slots in it for the sleds and such. It won't go away . . . . I want to build one with much better, more efficient storage areas and drawers. It just keeps working and other things keep coming up. I guess the moral (if there is one) is that if you aren't sure what you want yet, be careful about what you use "temporarily".
Last edited by glenn bradley; 01-09-2010 at 3:14 PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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John---Thanks, actually it's very helpful. I like the idea of having "separates". That would let me have the use of the table while building the storage. I'm looking for a similar shape, wider than deep, only difference would be which direction drawers or shelves would face.Dan, a little late seeing this thread, and from the looks of your setup this isn't going to help much. But, for what it is worth, this is my outfeed table.
The table itself is cobbled together with some plywood scraps, and the top is Lexan over a plywood base. It is slick, and nothing sticks to it with any tenacity, so it is easy to keep clean. Subs as a glue up area at times, and I try to cover it with newpaper or rosin paper - but, not always!
There are two roll out drawer units - one on either side. I can roll them out, and use for additional "counter top area" for finishing pieces, etc.
Dan
Last edited by Dan Forman; 01-09-2010 at 5:02 PM.
Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.
-Woody Allen-
Critiques on works posted are always welcome
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Michael---Thanks, I have that issue, have been considering some of those features, though would have to alter dimensions to make it wider than long.
Dan
Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.
-Woody Allen-
Critiques on works posted are always welcome
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John---That's a nice solution, gotta love all that real estate when it's folded out. Mine will need a free standing table, as the Incra Fence needs clearance along the back rail. I may still do a smaller folding section right in line with the blade.
Dan
Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.
-Woody Allen-
Critiques on works posted are always welcome
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Glen, can you do what John Keeton did, just build storage units to go under the table you already have?
Dan
Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.
-Woody Allen-
Critiques on works posted are always welcome
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