Bandsaw lead wheel weights?

[Cameron Reddy]

My new (old) PM 141 bandsaw has a pretty bad shimmy. I'm replacing the tires and the power belt, but I don't expect that to solve the entire problem.

Anyone know where I can get self adhesive lead weights that I can apply to the cast iron wheels?

Anyone know a source for new cast iron wheels?

Thanks,

Cameron

[Scott T Smith]

Anyone know where I can get self adhesive lead weights that I can apply to the cast iron wheels?

Sure. Most high performance tire shops stock stick-on lead weights for aluminum wheels. You can also mail-order them from racing parts web sites such as Summit Racing or JEGS.

[doug faist]

Cameron - you can also find weighted tape at golf supply stores. I used to use it to change the weight on my driver.

Doug

[Cameron Reddy]

Thanks Scott. I ordered some.

Doug, I have lead tape for my golf clubs... but the tape isn't thick enough to amount to much weight. Plenty to change the swing weight of a club... but I doubt enough to balance a cast iron wheel.

Cameron

[Joe Scharle]

I use copper wire wrapped around a spoke.

[Myk Rian]

You can use pipe solder. I've used paper clips.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...2&d=1263256940

[Russ Buddle]

Most of the larger saws drill away weight to balance the wheels, this way there is no chance of the balance weights falling off, or flying off and causing larger problems.

[Matt Day]

I plan to use motorcycle wheel weights, which are adhesive backed.

[Kirk Poore]

I used stick-on tire weights from a tire store. I had one fly off, which was momentarily exciting. After that I stuck it back by taping over it with duct tape. No issues since.

Kirk

[Simon Dupay]

Did you replace the bearings? you should't have to "rebalance" the wheels something else is going on.

[Paul Atkins]

What do you mean by shimmy? Is it the blade or the wheel or the whole saw? Forwards and back? Side to side?

[Cameron Reddy]

Thanks for the comments, guys. I did not replace bearings.

Turned it on and it shook like crazy. I took it off the mobile base and it still shook. Not like crazy. But enough that it wouldn't pass the keep the coffee in the cup test.

I think the problem is visible in the pictures.

First two pictures show that the axle is not centered. The wheel is round, but only because of what is visible in the last two pictures. The factory had to shave a ton of metal off one side verses the other. You can see it in the difference in the depth of the rim.

I remember, now, WHY companies started seeking off shore manufacturers. Stuff made in the USA from the 70's through the 90's was pretty much garbage, as is shown here. The design was there, in terms of heft and strength. But the execution... Who on earth would have installed a wheel like that?

You wouldn't have thought it would be an American.

Should have bought a Grizzly. Now I have a problem on my hands.

Anyone want to buy an American made bandsaw?

[John Powers]

I have an 1986 Delta so I have a dog in this fight so to speak. did it ever work right for you? did it start the shimmy recently. I'd have to replace the bearings to at least rule out that variable. Did you buy it used and are just now setting it up?

[John Powers]

I'd have to replace the bearings to at least rule that out.

[Cameron Reddy]

I have an 1986 Delta so I have a dog in this fight so to speak. did it ever work right for you? did it start the shimmy recently. I'd have to replace the bearings to at least rule out that variable. Did you buy it used and are just now setting it up?

Just bought it used. It was in a storage shed so I didn't even think to ask to see it run. I spun the wheels by hand and they seemed nice and free.

One thing I did notice but didn't understand was that the paint had scraped off the side of the rim on a section of the top wheel. Once I got the saw home and set up I could see that the wheel was bulged out at that point such that the rim was scraping on the wheel cover.